Tricks To Cleaning Dirt Bike Engine Cases

Tricks To Cleaning Dirt Bike Engine Cases


of course every engine build starts at
the cases somebody get these Co 250 cases ready to go back together by
popping out the old bearings as studs shining up the cases and cleaning up the
gasket surfaces the majority of these bearings can be removed by heating them
up and knocking them out from the opposite side however with a bearing
like this where there’s no access from the other side that will have to be
removed with a blind bearing polar and then a few of these bearings have
retainers holding them in a place so I’m gonna have to remove the screws and
bolts holding them on most of the time these bolts and screws are gonna be
locked headed so I’m not gonna even bother trying to get them out without
heating them up first now for the Phillips screws the head strip out
really easily so I’m not gonna take any chances with them just going to go
straight ahead and use the impact screwdriver
I’ll have this tool link down in the description I tell you what guys these
screwdrivers work without fail 100% of the time
super super handy to have all right I’ve got a few seals to pop out and then I’m
gonna heat up the bearings and knock them out of the case all right got a socket that fits just
inside the hole on the case here and I should be able to give it a whack and
the bearing will fall out I’m gonna go ahead and give the case some more heat
here and the reason why heat works in the situation is because the case is
aluminum the bearing is steel and aluminum expands at a quicker rate then
steel does and so why this works is when the case is heated up the bearing will
have more room to slide out I don’t know if you guys caught that or not but when
I flipped the case over this bearing just fell right out I really wanted to
show you guys that blind bearing polar but I might need to use it on this
needle bearing here so I’m gonna try the same thing on the needle bearing here
heat it up flip the case over and hopefully it falls out no such luck using that method so on to
the blind bearing polar it is hopefully I have one that’s big enough basically
how this polar works is as always tightening those two pieces against each
other it expanded down inside the bearing so I’ve got a firm grasp on the
bearing as soon as I thread in the slide hammer to the polar I’ll build the yank
that bearing right out pretty dang slick if you ask me works awesome on wheel
bearings linkage bearings case bearings you name it it’s got pretty much every
size you’d ever need I’ll link this tool down below as well the last thing to
pull off this case are the cylinder studs never hurts to go ahead and
replace those to remove them I’ll be using the double nut technique sounds
dirty but I promise it isn’t all those be walking to nuts against each other on
the stud and that will enable me to thread the stud out of the case now I’ve got this case completely bare
just gonna follow the same steps with the other case now for the inner clutch cover I’m just
got a few seals and a bearing to pull out all right the cases are completely
bare at this point and I’ve got my work area all cleaned up the next step is
gonna be shining these things up I’m gonna start out by putting the
scotch-brite wheel on the buffer and knock it out as much as I can with that
and then I’ll move on to the dremel tool and I’ve got a couple attachments here
some scotch-brite wheels and a few brass wire attachments as well I want you guys
to take a good look at the cases right now how dull and plain looking they are
in a few minutes I’ll have them looking so much better man this scotch-brite wheel is really
working some magic on the crank case however there’s still a lot of rock
chips and pitting on the bottom side so I’m gonna try the more aggressive scotch
brite wheel and see if I can smooth some of that out that is simply mind-blowing it’s like a
brand-new crankcase all over again I’m gonna pop the other scotch-brite wheel
back on and smooth this thing out even more alright that’s about as far as I can get
with the scotch brite wheel on the buffer now if only I can get the rest of
the crankcase looking this good I’d be stoked as you can see I can’t really do
much in these tighter areas with the scotch brite wheel on the buffer so I’m
gonna bust out the dremel tool with the brass wire cup and I’m really really
hoping I can get that same type of finish so the brass wire attachments bore down
pretty quickly so I’m going to give this Scott’s part wheel a try now the scotch-brite wheel seemed to work
okay just wore down super quickly so I’m pretty happy with how the brass
attachments worked but the only thing is they left like a brass color on the
finish so I’ve been trying the regular wire wheels here I got a straight one
and a cup as well and these seem to be the ticket for getting a similar finish
to what I got with the scotch-brite wheel and a buffer without the brass
color all right I’ve got the left case all
shined up and this is what it looks like compared to the right case pretty
dramatic difference so I use a combination of the wire and scotch-brite
wheels not really a big fan of these brass wheels they just left kind of a
brass look to it and the regular wire wheels seem to work a lot better keep in
mind if you’re gonna be using these scotch-brite wheels have a lot on hand
they wear out pretty quickly you guys enjoyed watching the videos I would
appreciate it if you go show some support head over to primum XCOM pick up
a t-shirt a hat stickers I also have the scotch-brite wheels shown in this video
over there as well without your support I wouldn’t be able to make helpful and
informative videos like this now it’s on to getting the right crankcase and inner
clutch cover look it’s sweet too and by the way I’ll have all the supplies used
throughout the video linked down in the description I am pretty happy with how these things
cleaned up now to touch up the gasket surfaces I’ll be using a sanding block
with 320 grit sandpaper just gonna go super light with the pressure don’t want
to take off too much material here like I said I’m gonna go really light with
the pressure and I’m gonna try to keep the sanding block moving around the case
don’t want to spend too much time focused on one spot since that will make
it uneven and then for something like the cylinder base gasket surface I’m
gonna bolt the cases together that way it’s easier to sand and I can get a nice
even finish on the whole surface these gasket surfaces should be plenty flushed
now last thing to do is the clean up all the junk from sanding and what was left
behind the bearings as well I always appreciate y’all taking the
time to watch through the video and don’t forget all the supplies used
throughout the video are linked down below I will see you guys later

100 thoughts on “Tricks To Cleaning Dirt Bike Engine Cases

  1. Great video, Thanks! Not sure if this has been mentioned already but when you run into what appears to be Phillips screws on a Japanese product don't use a Phillips screwdriver because they are not Phillips. They are in fact JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard) They have a different form to them than Phillips. While Phillips are designed to cam out JIS is not, but use a Phillips driver on a JIS screw and they they will bugger up the screw. Best way to ID a JIS screw is to look for a dot on the screw head. Although JIS screwdrivers are hard to find the impact drivers usually save the day. Hope this helps those who wonder why Japanese screws always get trashed when removing them with a known good Phillips driver.

  2. If you're working on a Japanese bike, or anything else from Japan, then the Phillips screws that strip out AREN'T Phillips screws. They are in fact JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, a Japanese version of the Philips. If you go on Amazon you can get the proper screwdrivers to help avoid cam out.

  3. Well thats the gonna be the end of watchn this channel if this keeps up, friggn 3 ads i had to watch in this video. Fkn sux

  4. Great video. A trick I have always used for blind bearings is put the entire case in the oven. Let it get nice and heated then take it out and slam it down on a piece of plywood. They will fall right out.

  5. i am a really big fan i was wondering if i can have some free stickers i love to havethem on my motocross bike keep up the good work

  6. Any chance of free stickers or Any think would love to have your logo on my mx bike

  7. My question is how long does that finish last in service and what, perhaps, do you do to stop or slow down the oxidising process? Looks good though.

  8. Hello friend, could you give me the name and brand of the products you use to clean the alumineo pieces? greetings from Ecuador

  9. When cleaning the cases how long will it take to oxidize again or look ugly ? How do you protect it after taking off the coating ? Please would like to know

  10. hello sir, i hope you are doing well i need your address to have product information because i wanted to start my business and i need aluminuim polishing products. I thank you for the good understanding. here is my address: [email protected]

                                                                                    Sincerely, M.Togola salif

  11. bro what chemical can i buy to remove grease and oil in the motor? i'm planning to restore my honda xrm110 and do you have a video how to fix stuckup kickstarter? thanks

  12. Another idea for ends and edges and places where gaskets will go, tape down some large pieces of sandpaper on a flat surface and then slide the case over them to keep everything flat and smooth as you sand those edges. It near about eliminates any low or high areas on those surfaces. JMHO

  13. Mate I love your content it’s always exciting to watch someone who’s patient with there work im keen to see this cr250 being put back together

  14. Im going to be cleaning an engine soon here. I was messing around with some steel wire cups and they cleaned it up very well, but left a darker finish. You think if i get a bunch of scotch brite wheels for a dremel that will get rid of that finish?

  15. Dude do NOT use a sanding pad to lap your cases. It's going to be uneven. Get a nice thick piece of glass and cover it with some fine Emery cloth. Lap your gasket surface by sliding it over th Emery cloth in a figure 8 motion.

  16. Do you know that after polishing finished, what need to be done to get the aluminum to get back to its original color?

  17. Those cases came out great didn't they. The brass wire while softer to use on aluminum, it does however transfer in to the pours of the aluminum leaving a goldish color. The goldish color is fine if that is the look you're after. I had the same thing happen before. Next use some Blue magic to further polish and help seal the cases.

  18. Love your videos been following you for a long time, you should build yourself a vaporblaster, once you have one you can't live without it ! Saves so much time

  19. Thanks once more. I’m restoring my 426 and just stripped the cases and need to clean them up. Your level of detailing is outstanding! Hope your health is improving.

  20. How do you keep rust off the bare metal? Worst thing in the world when you get the cases and hardware sparkling but it rusts twice as fast? 👍

  21. Nice job cam, love the patience and detail. I love doing all this myself and your vids help me skip the trial and error drama. I'll be picking some stuff up at your store.

  22. bro, after assemblying the engine parts again will it effect the engine performance ? Will it have the power and torque that was there when it was manufactured first at the company factory ? And what is name of the brush u used ?

  23. U can make yourself a vapor blaster for about $400,plenty videos on here on how to do it. Made my own and it's whole lot less work

  24. Dude… U really had the patience to polish all that… Oh my god!
    I thought u were simply Going to clean and sandblast.
    Amazing

  25. Bullshit . This takes days to polish engine cases . Are you wearing a dust mask for aluminum particles ? Otherwise your a dead man lung wise

  26. Nonsense, clean with send blaster then nickel it every thing would be better than you… job you are doing is cheap qualty

  27. Looks killer. Whats the best way to keep it looking shiney. Have you tried any long lasting wax based product that lasts? Polished over painted any day for me. Nice work man.

  28. @4:08 I don't understand why the nut you put last doesn't come out, aren't you turning it counterclockwise?
    am I missing something here?

  29. FYI – I just found the best (and easiest) process for cleaning and semi polishing aluminum or pot metal motorcycle cases or engine components. It's called "steam blasting" and it work great!!!!

    This process cut my time detailing a bike engine by at least 60%!!!!! Check it out!!!!!

  30. Want a better finish? get a harbor freight sandblasting cabinet but use baking soda as the media and it will clean and polish at the same time. You will be amazed at how fast and smooth the alum will be when finished. check into it …some youtube video on this.

  31. Its hard to believe i did all that when i was in high school on an IT175. Im 50 now and would rather eat potato chips and watch tv

  32. Have you thought about filling the largest holes by alloy brazing? A Henrob torch is great for those tasks, using just 4 psi you don’t get any blowback and brazing isn’t hot enough to deform the cases. It’s very gentle. You would then just grind back the cases, and by this method you haven’t sacrificed any case thickness. It’s also used to restore irreplaceable vintage wire rims (like off classic Mercedes & Jaguar), and exhausts too. Better method IMO.

  33. Ive always thought this was a good channel, there are better dirt bike ones, but this one is good, i like it. It struck me the other night … i have learned SOOOOO many little tricks and tips from you, that have saved me soooo much money and time. If someone is not that knowledgable and trying to learn, i cant find a better channel. Thanks for taking the time to put all this stuff up.

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