Tracing Paper vs. Swedish Tracing Paper | Comparison & Review | SEWING REPORT

Tracing Paper vs. Swedish Tracing Paper | Comparison & Review | SEWING REPORT


in this episode we’re talking all about
what kind of tracing paper to use with your sewing patterns welcome to the Sewing Report I’m
Jennifer Moore helping you discover your love of sewing there’s been a product
I’ve been wanting to try for a while now I first heard about it in a Facebook
group and I was pretty psyched to get some of it myself and it is called
Swedish tracing paper now there’s all kinds of different paper and materials
you can use to trace sewing patterns onto and that’s if you want to maybe
grade your sewing pattern or if you want to keep the original tissue intact a lot
of people we use like medical grade like exam table paper this is actually a roll
of bian Fang tracing paper I got it I think it’s like a 50 yard roll but it’s
getting to the end so I thought it would be worth a shot to try something
different and now all of these products can be found pretty easily at Amazon and
I will link them below so the thing about Swedish tracing paper that
apparently is great is that it’s so about so you can trace your pattern
pieces on to it and then sew them together in theory eliminating the need
for a muslin so we’re gonna test it out I’m gonna try it and see how it compares
to the tracing paper this is a little pricier than the tracing paper because
this is only a 10 yard roll and this is like a 50 yard roll but this roll is
wider so you can get more of your pattern pieces onto a smaller section
and also you don’t have to like tape pieces together if you have a really
like a larger pattern piece so this is so Abul Swedish tracing paper it’s 29
inches by 10 yards and it says don’t cut your patterns trace them with this
syllable pattern paper sew it and try it on before cutting your expensive fabric
which is pretty much why we make a muslin is to work out any fit issues and
you might be able to even though this is a little pricier than the tracing paper
maybe it’ll save you money because then you’re not using fabric to make a muslin
and this says you use it to make a durable master pattern strong
see-through and drape ibly soft which I like the idea
this being more like fabric and that it won’t rip or tear as easily so let’s get
this baby out of the plastic we’ll just get you out of here and we’ll kind of
compare to see how it looks all right wait there’s a little bit of tape
holding this together let me try to get this off alright there’s some scotch
tape ah all right I don’t know sleep we can get this off so I’m gonna actually
use a small pattern to try it out on all right now all right this does seem to be
kind of the tape death seem to be taking a little bit of it off so I wouldn’t
really recommend trying to put tape on this and then trying to remove it cuz it
does look like that might not be the best thing so let’s kind of lay these
out and I’m gonna use a small pattern this is the playgroup romper by fresh
stitch patterns and I’m gonna cut this out and sew it together just to see how
it you know so is up and then I’m gonna use the seam ripper just try to get the
pieces apart let’s lay these out side by side to kind of compare the opacity
alright so this is the regular tracing paper and this is the swedish tracing
paper ah alright and both seem relatively
translucent which is a good property for tracing paper right alright and let me
put a pattern piece underneath so you can see how it looks
so here is one pattern piece and I’ll put the other one over here just to be
able to see how see-through they are opacity wise these actually seem pretty
similar so you should be able to see your markings pretty clearly and be able
to trace the pieces the paper tears very easily let’s see if this stuff tears
this stuff tears as well but it does seem a little more durable in that like
if you’re not trying to rip it it should be okay alright so let me try to I’m
gonna set this aside and we’re gonna trace some pattern pieces onto the
Swedish tracing paper to trace patterns I tend to use the purple side the air
soluble side of this sited pen and I’ll link it below I have
like eight of these at a time and they’re great and what I like about this
pen is that when you trace your pattern pieces the markings disappear after a
while so I don’t use this for the pattern markings I’ll use the blue side
because it doesn’t disappear but for the outside lines that you’re just gonna cut
away I tend to use the purple side all right so this is the back and you
actually want two of these I’m actually just gonna do one side so you can kind
of see how it looks all right so well do two of these and we’ll actually line
these up with the ends hopefully it’ll make things a little easier let’s try to
line you up and then we’re gonna sew one side together and see how well it does
with that girls so we are just going to trace around this side oops
and yeah the markings are very easy to see so I’m not having any difficulty and
the pen is actually I’m not having any trouble with the pen it’s definitely
good for any sort of writing implements let’s trace around here and I’m just
sort of doing this as a sample so it doesn’t need to be perfect and we’re
just gonna so the simple we’re done and I do like this material it’s it’s a
little more fabric II so it kind of feels like interfacing but hopefully
it’s a little bit more drape Abul so that if you’re trying to work outfit
issues you can try this on yourself and yeah I can definitely see using this as
a muslin replacement it does seem like it would work fine for that now this
material does feel kind of delicate but it feels a little bit sturdier than
paper I would liken this to like I don’t know like actually you know what this
reminds me of this reminds me of those bibs you get at the dentist you know the
ones that they put on you the paper ones this reminds me of that this is sort of
like a hybrid between paper and fabric I would say not having any trouble with
cutting this so this should be a breeze but yeah this definitely reminds me of
those pea burg downs they give you at the doctor’s
office or the bibs at the dentist’s office maybe it’s the same stuff maybe
that’s what it really is although if that’s the case just try to find those
bibs and then use those instead although just make sure to get them in white I’m
working with my trusty ever sown sparrow 25 I’ve got the walking foot on and I
just have your regular old needle in here so we’re just gonna give that a
whirl and see how it does we’re just going to sew the shoulder and the side
seam just to test it out I’m just gonna be using a basting stitch just to make
it easier to get the stitches out at the end all right here we go Willets so sort
of like that segment can it blend remember with the blender all right and
it does indeed so actually another material this
reminds me of is coffee filters all right we got one seam done okay here we
go that definitely sewed up let me just get this out and actually I don’t even know
if I’m gonna need a seam ripper I may just be able to pull the stitches out it
looks pretty easy to do alright so I’ve got the shoulder seam done now we’re
just going to do the side seam and then that should give us a pretty good
indicator of how this performs okay here we go do the side seam here this was
very easy to sew with I would say from my initial impression I wouldn’t so
these seams over and over again but if you’re just doing it once or twice it
should be okay and it shouldn’t perforate the material that’s what I
think all right here we go and just to kind of test that theory
I’m gonna try to sew this back and see what happens when you do that we’ll see
we’ll see what happens okay here we go so back just to see if it like destroys
the material or if it stays okay okay so here’s my test sample this seems okay
that one’s coming out a little bit but that’s probably because I missed a few
stitches and they’re sort of very loosely in place because it’s a basting
seam yeah I can definitely see using this as a muslin you could definitely
put this on like I could put my finger through here like this you can
definitely put this on and test it out for fit the seam that I stitched twice
is obvious a little more staying in place but yeah you can definitely move
this around and you know it doesn’t it seems to be more fabric like it doesn’t
unlike tracing paper it’s not gonna like rip when you try it on and this is also
more durable than doing the doing like a tissue fit so so far I think the
material now it is wrinkling quite a bit like there we go let me try to wrinkle
this up and see what happens it does wrinkle okay here we go but I
imagine you could just hit this with a dry iron it and it would probably
flatten out a little bit so all right so let’s see if we can get the stitches out
okay but yeah I would imagine if you just hit this with an iron and probably
be okay but yeah you can definitely I could
definitely see like if you wanted to take this in then you could work on your
fit issues you could also use these to practice and try out and experiment with
darts or other types of techniques but let me try to get this one row of
stitching out now this is actually just pulling out without even a seam ripper
it’s just like coming out so that’s pretty so if you’re just doing a very
loose seam you yeah you really don’t even need a seam ripper and let me just
try to tug it to see if it rips that came out pretty nicely it didn’t rip the
tracing paper and which I’m kind of surprised I
it was gonna rip alright so now let’s try this seam that I doubled okay
actually this is coming out even without a seam ripper too so I don’t even need
one so this is actually coming out pretty easily let me try to pull this
all right I’m gonna try to pull it to see if it does rip okay that so if you
do have two rows of stitching and then you yank it real hard it did indeed rip
but you know if you’re kind of careful with this and you know if I had used a
seam ripper this would not have happened but I think because I had gone over this
with two rows of stitching it did somewhat perforate the fabric this is
honestly the first time I’ve ever used this material so this is a true first
impressions video so I just wanted to give you an idea of what it’s like to
work with and how it handles and obviously two rows of stitching if you
yank it it will tear the material but overall this is I would say this is more
durable than tracing paper but less durable than fabrics so it’s a bit of a
hybrid between fabric and paper so anyways I hope you enjoyed this video
with my little review and demo of the Swedish tracing paper if you’d like to
see more product reviews I’ve done quite a few of them and I will link to the
playlist and if you enjoyed this video be sure to smash that thumbs up button
and feel free to subscribe to the Sewing Report for much more I will see you next
time

21 thoughts on “Tracing Paper vs. Swedish Tracing Paper | Comparison & Review | SEWING REPORT

  1. WATCH ALL: Sewing & Quilting Review Videos
    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDeCt6WqT8q3CQm0HdA9tJ_22GNKCaI7k

  2. Good video but I think i’m going to stick with my Ultrecht tracing paper which cost less. It seems a little too stiff for a muslin in my opinion. It would be good for tracing vintage patterns though.

  3. I found a super cheap sewable alternative way back when stuff like that wasn't available. Garden fleece. Well, I think it's called that. It's this slightly translucent fabric like stuff you wrap frost sensitive garden plants in to prevent 'frostbite'. It's super cheap and you can get it in different thicknesses even, especially around this time of year.
    Can't be ironed though…it'll melt and gunk up the iron (ask me how I know) 😁
    Works well for tailored garments, not so much for drapy fabrics, obviously.

  4. I like to use Pellon Tru Grid. It's soft and drapes well. I haven't tried sewing it. Will have to try it. A money saving tip: Keep some of the larger scraps of the paper pattern pieces. Use them to trace patterns from books or to make a new pattern piece. I do this all the time.

  5. if this is more expensive then interfacing I would just use interfacing – you can draw on interfacing and sew it also

  6. I've read about Swedish Tracing paper but never really understood what it is so thank you Jennifer for enlighten me (and others) with your excellent video

  7. I use this tracing paper and like it because I can write notes to self on the paper. Sometimes I need reminders from either the instructions or from when assembling the garment. I never thought of using this paper instead of making a muslin.

  8. I'm into pattern drafting and I haven't bought muslin at all I use old sheets for non stretch garments. It's been working out so far. You can but sheets at thrift stores and there is lots of fabric to use over and over especially if you make as many mistakes as I do.

  9. have been using the Swedish tracing paper for many years…would never think of using any other product for my patterns…use patterns made with this fibrous paper over & over again…very durable & patterns fold up small for storage……

  10. Jennifer:  I too am a long-time user of Swedish Tracing Paper.  I always use it for tracing patterns and have never used it to create a muslin or toile.  This is chiefly because I take my toiles very seriously and strive to make them out of an inexpensive fabric that most nearly resembles my intended garment fabric on as many levels as possible.  That's why I haunt thrift (charity) shops in my home town and I have a stash of them available to me at all times.   The other blessing of using the Swedish paper, which is so easy to write on with just about every type of writing implement, is that if you hate your toile or muslin and you know you'll never make it "for real", you can simply turn over your the traced pattern pieces, tape them together like a mosaic and trace your next desired garment pattern pieces.  In my experience, one should use ONLY Scotch brand 1/2" frosted tape – it goes on and comes off like a dream (as it does with PDF patterns too).  If you use this tape, it would be wise NOT to iron directly on it when you want to flatten out your tracing paper.  If you must press it, please cover the taped portion with a pressing cloth and don't bear down.  I've been re-using large and small pieces of this paper many times in a "mosaic" fashion.  This may sound miserly but using it this way has always been my way to offset the initial cost for this slightly pricey tracing paper.  Which I love!  Did I say that?  Hope this is helpful to anyone – Marlene La Ban, Albuquerque, NM, US of A

  11. I have used this in the past for muslins. It is a bit too stiff, I feel, to really evaluate any fit issues of the muslin as it doesn't give the tell tale 'wrinkles' or pulling , that can show where the fit is off as true fabric with more drape would. I do however have several patterns traced onto this product and they wear like iron if you use pattern weights instead of pins as pins will leave holes over time.

  12. I found a neat tracing-type paper at the sewing and quilt Expo in Minneapolis. It’s called Bosal, Create-A-Pattern. It is 100% polyester and it is translucent, Pinable,will not fray when cutting in any direction. The roll I bought was 46 inches wide by 10 linear yards. I paid $20.99 plus tax for the roll.

  13. This is really helpful. I think I'm going to use this when I make the Simplicity dress patterns I got for $1 on Black Friday. I've heard a lot about Simplicity having fit issues.

  14. Why did you choose to use a walking foot? I've been sewing since I was a teenager and have rarely used a walking foot. Maybe it's more the standard these days?

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