Short Version: Origami Tessellation Guide: Tessellesson on Bricks by Ilan Garibi

Short Version: Origami Tessellation Guide: Tessellesson on Bricks by Ilan Garibi

Hello Everyone In this video I’m going to give you a guide
in tessellations. In other words a tessellesson. I’ll work with the example of Ilan Garibi’s
bricks and a variation I did which I’ll call big bricks because, when you turn this
model around you will these bricks here and they are a bit bigger than the ones in Ilan
Garibi’s original bricks. I’ll be giving a lot of background information
so let’s start with the paper choice. This paper is tant. It is really nice for
folding tessellations and some other models too.
I also appreciate using elephant hide and sometimes translucent paper like pergamine
or glascine for tessellations. Now in this video I’m going to be using
very normal kami. Very normal origami paper, pretty light weight, not a lot of stiffness
to it and I really do not recommend it for tessellations. But I know that some of you
may not have access to different kinds of paper, so I thought going with something very
basic was a good idea and I always like having a duo effect. So tant is available in many colors. I’ve
got a pack with a hundred different colors. And you should really give it a try. It is
widely accessible, much more widely accessible than elephant hide and as you can see makes
beautiful folds. So I will go into how to fold these models,
but more essentially how when you are given one molecule, which is just one of these areas,
how to assemble them to get many on one sheet of paper. So let’s first look at one of these molecules.
You will see that this looks kind of like this small area. And I will just going to take this part and
unfold it. You may notice that this is folded on a square grid with 7 divisions. The crease
pattern works on that grid plus a couple of diagonal creases. So you can see that here there are mountain
folds and I’ve indicated all of them in red. And then there are a couple of valley
folds which I have indicated in blue. So this crease pattern, I you fold them, you
can then collapse this model. So you can see it kind of goes together. I
actually like collapsing it from the colored side.
So that I pinch these two mountain folds together, because from the colored side these are now
mountain folds. The same thing on the other side and then this just twists together as
soon as you have all the creases in place. Sometimes you have to ensure that the creases
are in the right direction. So one tip I’m going to give you. If you want to have very
nice precision and you are having a hard time getting the paper to behave like you want
to when doing the creases you can precrease them a bit with a ruler and a bone folder.
So usually what I do is just fold this in the air. Just bend the paper and then go along
where you want to make that crease. Depending on which paper you are using, it might be
hard to ensure that the crease does not extend and that it is not crooked. So what you can
do is, you can weaken the paper just in that spot and then the crease is going to right
along there. So I’m just aligning with the crease line I want to make. Taking a bone
folder, you can use, and a knitting needle if you don’t have a bone folder. Or a empty
pen if you like. Everything that has kind of a pointy edge that you can run along where
you want the crease to go. And I only do this on off grid creases. Because as I previously mentioned before,
this is on a square grid. If you, you can probably see there are creases
here, which just go along the grid. This is a seven by seven grid. So once I have kind
of precreased with the bone folder, I can now go in and the paper is pretty much automatically
going to want to go along that weakening of the paper I just did. I like doing this for display models and especially
for more complex patterns. For this tessellation it might be a bit of an overkill but I thought
I’d share this tip with you. So now you have got these quite precise off grid creases.
By the way I have got a 7×7 grid and I creased by folding an 8×8 grid which you can do by
continuously folding in half and then cutting off one strip on each side. So now that we’ve
got these creases in place we can also go ahead and crease the valley folds. They are kind of already there because they
are on the grid, but we want to ensure that they are in the right direction to make the
collapsing part super easy. And I do not worry about these parts right
now. Now that I have done these creases. I’m just going to flip it over and as before pinch
together. The first time around it is going to be a bit harder than after that. Pinch
together and ensure that these folds go inside and then push together. They need to go down. And then you will see
that this mountain fold here will go along this edge of that central square and then
that edge of the central square. So you can see this moving, that’s the first time,
and then that’s the second time. This is true for all four sides. So then you
get this shape. And now you will see that this is a bit messy, because we didn’t make
mountain folds where I indicated. So I’m just going to press that in shape now. You can also do this right in the beginning,
but I finding it not as important. So this is one basic molecule, which indeed
is the molecule for my big bricks rather than Ilan Garibi’s bricks. And you will see that this kind of unfolds
a bit. So when you are doing this on a bigger sheet of paper with many molecules, what I
do is use binder clips to secure this. So just take these two layers and connect
them with a binder clip. You can use something different too, some people use small wooden
cloth pins, I think they are called. And they prefer that, because these are quite harsh.
You know, they are very strong. But I actually like that they are strong. Paper clips are
probably going to leave marks on the paper so I don’t recommend them that much. But
you can kind of give it a try. So I’m just going to remove these again,
but we will need them later. So let’s have a look at the differences
between this molecules and the one for bricks. You will see when we will unfold this again
that this is quite of a symmetrical shape. We have a central square and then from the
corners each of these four corners, there is a diagonal crease that goes along two grid
squares. And this is true on all four sides. It’s symmetrical. And then these valley
folds again, they all work in the same way. So that you when rotate this by 90 degrees
it is the same pattern each time. Now if we take one by Ilan Garibi for the bricks then
you will see this actually isn’t the case any more, because this looks quite different,
right. This is a molecule that is on a 6×6 grid. So we don’t really have a central
square, it’s off centre. But if we put these on top of each other, then you will see that
they are essentially the same except that one strip was cut off on each side. And you
will see in a second how that works. Because we want to end in this model which assembles
many different molecules in one sheet. And if we want to do that, I’m just going to
put the, go back into collapsing that. So if we want to do that I am just going to take
four and I’m going to tell you something about these pink ones in a second. I’m just goin to take four. And I’m going
to connect them. I just simulating it by putting them next to each other, like this. So you
can see that with the molecules for my molecules from my big bricks you kind of now achieved
this small area for example. See these two long creases are where those molecules are
connected. Now in Ilan Garibi’s molecule for bricks.
Basically you are using molecules that are a bit smaller. So I’m just putting these
together more closely, kind of overlaying them and now you can see that here, this is
one area with four, that’s exactly what you achieved. So if you overlay these that
means you don’t need some paper. And that’s why you cut off exactly two strips so you
get a 6×6 molecule. Now if you paid close attention you will have seen that these two
molecules are a bit different. In essence they are a mirror image. And we need the mirror
image to connect these molecules because when you look at connecting molecules, you need
to check that they align. And if you look at the crease patterns of these two different
molecules you will see that the crease here aligns, the crease here aligns and the crease
here aligns. On the other hand if you take two molecules that have the exact same crease
pattern and you put them next to each other you will see that the creases don’t align.
And you might be tempted to then say, well that is shifted. But if you try to do that
you quickly realize that this doesn’t work in assembling one big full crease pattern
which brings me to the next point of which properties such a molecule has to fulfill
to be able to tessellated. So there are some interesting properties about this molecule.
And also of course the one for bricks itself. So one is that it is on a regular shape. So
the paper we start with is regular. This is a square, so that works well. So of course
you can imagine having a rectangle or you could have for example a hexagon. But it has
to be a shape that when you put many of them next to each other, you can fill the whole
space. Because in the end when you take many molecules and you combine them it is like
taking tape and connecting the sheets. So the second one is , if you want actually tape
together the edges, that means that the edges need to lie on the outside of the molecule.
So if we collapse this molecule again, you will see that the edge of the paper, all around,
is on the edge of the collapsed molecule. So that then if you actually want to connect
two molecules you could just take some tape and run it around. So what does this mean
in terms of crease patterns. This indeed just means that you want to connect creases. You
want all of the creases to match up. And this is also true when you take the bricks molecule
by Ilan Garibi. So this was one, and this is the other. And now I just have to check
that I align them correctly and they match up like this. So you can see here that we
don’t really have a crease line here, but we can easily add one on the edge between
two molecules. More importantly though, these two creases match up and these two match up.
So in general if you have a crease pattern on a square grid, and the creases match up
on this side, on the opposite side I should say, then you can just assemble them next
to each other. But if they are different, if you just take the mirror image then they
fit together afterwards. Obviously because this side is then on the other side. And then
if you then assemble four then you will indeed have the property that every crease on this
side is exactly at the same height on the other side. And if you do it this way around
again that’s true too. In this case it’s symmetrical, so it is quite obvious, but it
is true in general. Note that for this of course from this side to the next you have
to mirror image in this direction. Going to this side you have to mirror image in that
direction. Okay, so what’s next? I guess we can move on to folding one of these
big tessellations. So I’ve prefolded a grid with 24 divisions. And I guess I should tell
you about what kind of grid you need for these tessellations depending on the molecule size.
This is 7×7, so if I want to assemble many molecules, I need 7 grid squares in each direction.
So if I have a 24 grid I can do three of these molecules in each direction, which would give
me nine molecules, because 7 times 3 is 21 and you can’t fit any more in 24. For the
smaller one, which is on a 6×6 grid I could indeed put 4 next to each other. Because 4
x 6 is 24 and that just about matches. Once you have sorted out what kind of grid you
want to fold, you have to fold it of course. There are different ways on how to do this.
So one method which I already told you about is. I wanted a 7×7 grid, so what I did, so
I folded an 8×8 grid, which is very easy to fold, and then I cut 1 strip off. So you could,
if you liked, for a 24 grid, fold a 32 grid and then just cut 8 strips off on each side.
Or what you can also do is, you can fold thirds and then on each of the thirds you fold eights.
Because this way around you only have to fold thirds once, which is a bit harder and then
the eights should be easy on each of the thirds. Any power of two division is easy to fold
because you just have to continuously fold in half. So now that we have got this, we
kind of want to know where to put each of these molecules. And I am going to go with
big bricks tessellation I think. And what I am going to do is that we have these central
squares. And I am just going to mark these central squares with some masking tape so
that we can remember where the molecules go. This is better than drawing on the paper because
it is going to damage the paper and it’s going to be visible and even if you use pencil
and you erase it , the paper is going to be damaged. Ilan Garibi, who told me so much
about all of these things and made me think about tessellations in a much different way
and who kind of motivated this video and who thought me a lot about what I am telling you
right now. And Ilan Garibi, he uses bluetack, I don’t have bluetack here, but that is
another option. So we’ve got a 24 grid, and I only want
to use, 21 grid squares. So what I am going to do, I am going to ignore two of the grid
squares on this length and 1 on that length. And I’m just going to mark for clarity where
that grid actually lies. I wouldn’t do this normally but I think for the video it is good
to draw on some things. So I need a 21 grid I left off 2 on one side and 1 one on the
other so 24 – 3 makes 21. We are good to go. Now we are going to mark the centers of
the molecules. Each molecule is 7×7. One two three four five six seven. And the central
squares in the center, so I go in four and then I go up four and there is the center.
Just seeing that you can’t really see the masking tape a lot, so I am going to draw
on the masking tape, which I guess is okay because it won’t damage the paper. And then
when you want to check the next one, you will see that from the central square you have
to move over 3 grid squares, and another three on the other side, so we are going to leave
exactly six space. One two three, four five six. And the same in the other direction and
just proceed to fill whole space. Now that we marked all of the central squares, we also
have to check which of the crease patterns we have to use. This one or this one. Now
for the first one it doesn’t really matter, so I’m just going to take one method which
is going to be, I guess, either it turning clockwise or it turning counter clockwise
and then we just have to ensure that we mirror image the correct way after that. So I am
going to draw this in, because it is a video after all. You can see this square, the central
square, so I am just going draw in those off grid creases.
And it is a very simple molecule so it shouldn’t be too hard and then when you go to the next
one you have to rotate in the other direction, so that in the end all the creases align up.
And then the next one is again, turning this way around, clockwise, and you just proceed
all the way around. I am going to draw them all in because I want to show you how I precreased
this. So there we go, we got all the off grid creases and I guess we could also draw in
the other creases but I think it could get a bit too confusing. So the interesting thing
about this is, that these creases are on the same line. Can you see this. This is a 45
degree angle. So rather than always creasing these small ones and handling the paper a
lot it is much easier to make all of these creases at once. And basically what you can
do is , you can count out how many diagonals you should crease and then how many you should
leave off. So for example here you crease along two diagonals, then you count one two
three four five, and then you crease again. And then again one two three four five left
out and then you crease again. This is going to be true for all of these. So what I do
, I kind of bring this paper in the right shape and then I crease and count one two
three four five. Of course I have drawn them in so the counting isn’t as necessary and
then crease again. And the same on the other one. And you can do that all the way around.
Now this saves the work of getting this paper kind of in this shape and then creasing. You
can also, as I showed you before, kind of prescore all these, but let’s not do that
now. And then proceed with the whole grid. So once you have precreased all of the diagonal
creases, we can start collapsing. I haven’t precreased all of the on grid creases, because
I think we will be okay without those. So I just turned this around because I told
you I like collapsing from the other side. And what I am basically going to do, I’m
just going to try to collapse just this small section a bit to get the creases in the right
direction. So as I told you before I am pinching these, now mountain folds from this side.
This is kind of like doing the precreasing for the on grid creases. And then you can kind of do that collapse
just like on the small molecule, just to get the paper in about the right shape. And then
you do that with each of these small molecules. Now once you have got one row done, you could
actually collapse this all the way, but I prefer doing the twists all around and then
we can start collapsing all of them, because once the model is collapsed a bit it is harder
to work on the rest of the paper. So now, we have done all the mountain folds
that are quite important. The ones in the center which are the ones right here on the
edges, I haven’t done yet. Those are going to form the bricks and we can do those in
the end just as before. So now what we will do is we will just collapse, always one row.
So I am just going to collapse one of these columns I guess.
And collapse them all the way. Now I used the binder clips before already and I am going
to use them now to secure the model more, which makes it less messy. Just like before
kind of put them right at the end of that mountain fold area. And I can do that on each
of the sides. So now one column is now basically collapsed and we can move on to the next one.
Doing it this way, is especially a good idea if you are working on a very big grid. This
is still moderate I would say. And if you want you can also clip in the center although
it is not going to be as stable because you cannot quite reach to the bottom. But what
you can do is again clip on the side and it will help stabilize the model in the center
too. So you can see it coming together and then move on to the next column. Always ensuring
that all of the valley folds are popped inside so that the collapsing works nicely.
So now that you have basically got it collapsed we just want to tidy up.
So you can see turning around that you can kind of see the bricks, but they are quite
messy. And once they are not messy any more it is going to much more robust. So what we
can do is just push these into place, just pushing from the back to get it to go along
the grid and it’s much easier to look at it from this side. This is like before, I
was making these creases in the end, or making them strong and that is kind of what I am
doing now too, but also now in the center of the model. And sometimes what is also useful
is to take something thinner than your fingers and go inside to get those creases to go in
the right places even when your fingers might be a bit too big. This is especially through
if you work on smaller sizes. And then you can see this has collapsed much better now
already. You can ensure that these squares, these central squares, are twisted nicely
and fiddle around with the model a bit more. But as you can see we folded my variation
of Ilan Garibi’s bricks, the big bricks, this is the big version. This is the small
version and hopefully on the way you have learned a bit about tessellating and making
a molecule or at least taking a molecule and then assembling it to many others. Just a
couple of notes. You saw that we talked about aligning creases. So how about you try to
vary this molecule a bit and try to assemble it or maybe even take different molecules,
quite different, not just a mirror image and assemble those just by looking at the constraint
of the creases being in the same location when you connect. So I hope you enjoyed this video which gave
you a bit more background information rather than just showing you how to fold something.
Do let me know what you think and happy folding.

91 thoughts on “Short Version: Origami Tessellation Guide: Tessellesson on Bricks by Ilan Garibi

  1. @origamipillbug No, I've folded some other tessellations from CP. However, I've only folded 3 or so non-tessellation models from crease pattern. It's a totally different challenge. 🙂

  2. @AdamsSara Like at 18:44,when u mark the small square in the normal one(24×24 to 21×21) do we follow the cp for the Big Bricks molecule for each 7×7 square,or the outside?
    Also,don't bother answering,since i figured it out

  3. I wanna try the green model (small brick), is it the 6×6 module in the diagram ?
    What size of grid should I use for the 6×6 green model ? 48×48 grid or ?

  4. @1234EVERYTHING This is an instructional video, but it's a bit more. You should be able to fold "Big Bricks" if you watch this video.

  5. @thelotr2010 Yes, Ilan's "Bricks" (green model) works with the 6×6 molecules. The model I showed was folded on a 32 division square grid. Then you can fit 5 molecules next to each other, so in total 25 on the whole sheet.

  6. @maxoid101 Hehe, yes, I thought the name of that paper might cause confusion, so I added the annotation right away. 🙂

  7. @AdamsSara I figured it out. So after folding I will have to cut one 3-squares strip on each side to maintain the shape of the model right ? I guess it's best to have a 29×29 grid (but kinda impossible to make that weird size hehe)

  8. What an exceptional teacher you are. A master of this media and the attetude and patience to pull it off briliantly.
    Thanks you so much for taking the time and skill to put these videos together.

  9. @thelotr2010 Yes, a 29 division grid works well, so does a 31 division grid. For both it'll be easier and cleaner to fold a 32 division grid, and then cut off the excess. 🙂

  10. Hi Sara!! Long time no activities from me.. You know I LOVE tessellations so this is a treat for me.. As usual, when I finish studying and making this model, I will let you know ^_^

  11. Sara, thanks so much for your instructional. they are great! i love them. Do you think you could give me some pointers with the "Stacked Triangles" model (tesselation)? its on Eric Gjerde's Origami tesselations? i am kind of stuck. thx 🙂
    Greetings from Colombia 🙂

  12. @mohitdandekar123 I've never worked on a printed crease pattern for tessellations, actually. I either draw it in (perhaps first try), or look at the crease pattern while folding. I guess if you had a printer for large sheets you could print it, too, but it's not strictly necessary. Hope this helps.

  13. @origamifreakk There aren't many books on tessellations out there yet. A very early one is "Invitation to Creative Playing with Origami" by Shuzo Fujimoto – but it's hard to come by, and entirely in Japanse. Check the appropriate entry on happyfolding(dot)com/books

  14. @doctorbeans As always, great work. But I guess I already did comment on your site. 🙂

  15. @PetersonDoug I fear I'm not qualified to answer that question – I haven't worked with Canson paper yet.

  16. @IrkInvader You can try asking specific questions in an origami forum, for example thekhans (do a search for thekhans origami to get the link).

  17. @kayzap That depends on how heavy the cardstock is. If the waterbomb tessellation worked out ok, this model will probably also work. You will probably have to secure the collapsed model in more places and perhaps for a bit longer, too.

  18. @MrJeb123 That depends on the size of the paper. You probably can't fold a very small grid on card stock and get a nice result, but if you work with bigger paper or less divisions you should probably be ok. Also note that the heavier the paper is, the better it is to have a bone folder. Else you'll destroy your nails, literally rubbing through them. Also, if you are using heavy paper you will probably need more (or stronger) clips to stabilize the model until it has adjusted to the final shape.

  19. Just so you know,I have some thick paper at hand,but i don't have a bone folder.Any suggestions for an optional one(NOTE:I cannot order anything from the internet)

  20. Finally i got time to make it from a 32×32 grid, but mine doesn't looks as good as yours. Anyway great video as always. 😉

  21. @AdamsSara haha well i cant make this cause i cant use printer paper anymore and i bought some origami paper but i dont have any that much the same size and color, any sugestions pleas

  22. @liv2pwn97 The color of the paper definitely doesn't matter. As to the size: if you use larger paper, the creases will be farther apart – which can make things easier or harder. I'd suggest if you only have smaller sheets that you try doing only 4 modules on a sheet. For a 15cm / 6 in square that should be very doable.

  23. "a tesselesson!" hehehe brilliant :^D Haven't tried any tesselation things yet… but i don't have origami paper, i just use A4 printing paper… some origamis come out ok in it, other's don't…. I wonder if a tesselation origami will be ok with simple printing paper….

  24. Nicht schlecht dein Englisch, ich muss schon sagen, man erkennt zwar das du deutsche bist an deinem Akzent, aber gerade dafür sprichst du ziemlich gut und vor allem flüssig. Wo hast du Englisch gelernt? Nur in der Schule oder auch über Auslandsaufenthalte oder dergleichen?

  25. @death5409 No, it's a paper produced by Zanders. It's very strong and comes in several shades of gray – perhaps that's why they called it elephant hide.

  26. @AdamsSara Would it still be effective with tissue foil? Or would there be too much of a risk of tearing it if you prescore?

  27. Fantastic video! Very well explained! I have never attempted one of these models before as I prefer modular shapes, but I'm very keen to give this a try and see how it turns out! 😀

  28. Origami, tessellations, or videos? Origami: Christmas 2005; Tessellations: Feb 2009; Videos: June 2007

  29. I saw in your video description, they sell:

    12 shades of red:
    12 shades of blue:
    12 shades of yellow:
    12 shades of green:

    Do they also sell 50 shades of grey?

  30. i dont get why people call these kind of paper elephant hide when it obviously have nothing to do with elephants.

  31. #remake I made this one for a school project a while back and it was a great success. I know that it is a longer one but still a really cool one!

  32. Hi, Sara. In the description text you have (twice) a broken link to the crease pattern; apparently the current location of the CP is

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