Quilling Letter Y – How to Make Mandala Monogram Pattern and Tutorial

Quilling Letter Y – How to Make Mandala Monogram Pattern and Tutorial

Hello I’m Cecelia Louie of PaperZen. In
this video I’m going to be showing how to outline the uppercase letter Y with a
mandala inspired design. I’ll also be showing an easy way to mirror your own
pattern to maintain consistency throughout your design. You’ll be seeing
how to figure out your strip length, and if you like this type of tutorial video
I hope you’ll show your support by giving me a thumbs up or leaving me a
comment below. For this project I’m going to double the size of my pattern. This
ability to enlarge happens to be my favorite feature of my PDF ebook. Ideally
you’d print onto an eleven by seventeen or tabloid size sheet of paper, but since
I don’t have a printer that large I’m going to show you what to do with an
eight-and-a-half by eleven or letter size paper for the template of the
letter Y I’m going to print that at 200% you can simply press print then page
setup then type 200% in the scale dialog box make sure auto
rotate and center is checked off and that’s just going to scale it from the
center outward all the margins all around will get cut off and only the
items in the middle will get printed so for this project I’m going to be
printing it on to vellum paper vellum is translucent so I can see through it and
this paper is safe for my printer so make sure of that first you can use
whatever printer safe paper you have it doesn’t have to be vellum I just want to
be able to trace through this paper the letter Y enlarges nicely at 200%
because it sits well on a sheet of eight-and-a-half by 11 this is going to
allow me to frame it for someone’s wall or their their room so play around with
the sizes for your letter not all the letters are going to work well at 200%
I think letter W is a bit too large so just play around with that percentage
now for the pattern portion you can print this on regular paper and there
are two ways to go about doing this so the first option is
straight forward you would just print your pattern out at 100% and put your
strip on top of the template you would mark your first segment move it over
line that up with the beginning of it right here and mark the second one so I
would fold on this one so then I would just continue on and move it over this
is how you get double the length pretty straightforward right so I would just
continue with that on and till I run out of room so I would continue the next
strip with a new strip and you just start at the 5 so I would know to fold
or in this case I would actually have to cut that strip right here and I would
fold every other one so I would skip one and fold and remember when you fold make
sure you don’t fold astray like that make sure your fingers guide the top and
bottom edge so that you’re folding perpendicular so then I would skip one
and fold and then of course you know you would just need to you really saw these
markings so that’s how you can easily double the length that’s needed now what
would happen if you wanted a hundred and forty percent well that’s when you need
to do option B since the pattern is not in the middle of the page we’re going to
need to tile all pages and have the cut marks option on then type in the tile
scale percentage that you’d like to print your printout in my example I am
doing it at 200% okay so these are the pages that have printed out and I’m
going to discard any that are blank or not help
for our pattern so essentially that one’s not needed
okay so I’ve come to the pattern portion so I’m going to keep this one and this
one these are what are known as trim marks and you’ll see there’s one at the
top and the bottom what they’re trying to help you guideline is where to trim
so I’m going to take a ruler and basically line it up to the trim marks and I’m going to trim this side so
because I’m right-handed I’m just going to turn that page around and now you can match these two up so I
would just get some pieces of tape and tape these about the top and the bottom
and now what happens is you’ve got the exact size that you need this to mark
your strips now that my strips have been measured and folded they’re ready to be
used I’m just going to set them aside because
I wanted to explain I wanted to put this monogram in a shadow box what’s a shadow
box it’s basically a picture frame that has some depth to it and I got this from
Michaels and it’s a good size 8 by 8 because and your monogram looks great in
a square and I just wanted to point out a few things of how to transfer your
letter to this card stock in my book I already have a 6×6 inch square ready for
you guys to use it any way that you want so in this case what do you do when it’s
an 8×8 square and it’s been the square that I provided is all printed away I
just wanted to point out there is a base line here there is a center line for
every letter I basically took my ruler and measured so if this is going to be
on a you know shadow box that’s 8 by 8 you’ve already know that 8 divided by 2
is 4 and that’s where I would mark off the 0 and here is the 8 so now that we
figured out the distance left and right let’s figure it out top and bottom
luckily we’ve printed this letter on to vellum paper so all we have to do is
fold it in half and match that base line to the top of the letter and just you
know crease it right there now all of a sudden you’ve got your middle mark of
the letter from there we would put our ruler here at 4 inches but I actually
tend to like to push my letter a little bit up to the top just a little bit
because I don’t like to have it even on both sides I like to give it
just a little bit of you know distance from the bottom so I’m going to instead
of four inches I’m going to move that ruler down three and three and a quarter
from there I’m just going to mark right at the top and at eight inches so this
mark ended up being about when I measured it it was about one and a half
inches and I decided okay well on this was just one line over so I thought okay
let’s just make it easier on myself I’ll just make it one and a half inches so
then from there I decided okay one and a half one and a half and then
that’s when I drew my line across this now gives me the distance from the
bottom now I can line it up to the bottom line and I’ve got my left and
right now why is this important to figure this out well when you put things
through your printer your printer can just be a little bit off here and there
and if you were to look carefully do you see the distance here and here are just
slightly different and that’s because your printer when it feeds the paper
it’s going to shift a little bit a little bit so you know if you want to
make things you know quite straight then these are the ways that you can do that
now that I’ve got this letter exactly in the middle of where I want it to be I’m
going to take some removable tape and I’m going to put behind my cardstock now it’s not going to move and I’m going
to go not actually in this case you don’t need a sunny window all you need
is your ruler and your scoring tool I’m just using a dried up pen to do my
scoring and we’re just going to score along all these lines to transfer the
letter onto this work surface okay so I finished transferring my letter to my
work surface and I’ve left a nice little indentation on my cardstock so I can see
exactly where to glue my outline and you can see here that I’ve cut this part of
the paper away and it’s going to be very helpful you’ll see in a second why okay
so I’m going to glue the outline of the letter Y to my work surface and because
the letter Y has two parts here that line up I’m going to secure those parts
first so because my source of light is coming from this direction I have
decided to turn it upside down and put some straight edge across and I’ve
secured it with some removable tape here on the sides this is so that when I put
my strip against here is going to then line up both of those straight edges
okay so I’m going to start with the first of those two edges right here so
I’m going to dip glue just along that segment and if you haven’t watched my
glue video already that explains why I smear my glue you might want to check
that out okay so now I’m going to secure the second straight edge along the top
okay so now I can remove this ruler because the function has been served so
I’m just going to tackle this straight edge first because I’m just going to do
a portion at a time and I’m just pulling it taut again strategic dipping you okay so that parts done so let’s take
care of this part I’m going to take this guy out of the way and I’m just going to
gently tug to the left and I just want to confirm is everything matching up if
not I can still adjust so again I’m just going to do a portion at a time just to
make my life easy I like things easy okay so now I’m ready to glue the two
ends here in here so I’m just going to pick up a little bit of glue and just
push aside one of the strip ends and then bring those two edges together and that’s how you outlined the
uppercase letter y let’s go fill it up I decided to start the center of my
mandala with a circle and I drew that using a dollar store or circle template
I just kind of eyeballed where I thought the center would be I also used the
ruler to draw a line down the middle so it gave me an idea of where the center
was and I just kind of drew some petals and some scrolls and some more petals
coming the other way some simple teardrop shapes and you’ll notice that
most of it’s all on one side and you remember that little sheet that we cut
from the corner here so what I did was I trace the same design onto this scrap
sheet of paper now what I’m going to do is flip it over place it underneath and
now I can trace the exact same sign on the opposite side this is a really
simple technique to make sure that your design is mirrored on both sides to be
as close as possible okay so now that I’ve copied the same design on to my
scrap piece of paper it’s time to transfer this design to the upper part
of the letter Y the thing is you can see that the distance here is wider than the
distance here so let me show you how much distance there is if I’m aligning
this line here you can see it’s a little bit wider it’s going to require me to
adjust a little bit here and there and you know that’s okay because this is all
handmade first I’m going to just kind of eyeball a center line here just to give
myself a little bit of guidance and I can secure this with a piece of
removable tape just to make sure it doesn’t keep moving around so I hope you
can see I’m still able to manipulate the the sheet on top the Velo on top to move
it around to the point where I like what I see and at that point that’s when you
can start tracing again and I’m just going to fudge you know here and there
and at this point you can take it off this template and just study it is this
what you like if you don’t just erase it and try it again
not a big deal now then now I can start doing this part I know I like the center
petal to be you know a strong dominant piece I’m going to fudge the width of
this piece here being able to trace through your pattern
from below allows you to adjust your template to suit your needs exactly so
now that I’ve completed this side I’m going to now continue the rest of my
design right here and finish off this part of
the letter Y okay I finished adding the final touches to the corner up here I
decided to do something that reminds me of a peacock feather and so now that
I’ve done the entire part of this letter Y I’ve traced it onto my scrap and this
is going to allow me to again flip it over tuck it underneath and immediately
be able to trace an exact replica of that side now that I have this design
done I’ve taken another sheet of tracing paper and I have traced it over in color
and so what this is going to let me do is imagine different color combinations
and you know you can do this many times over you can change up the colors you
can try different patterns and imagine how it’s going to be when you’re
actually quilling with it the pen that I’m actually using here I just wanted to
bring it to your attention in case you’ve never heard of it it’s actually
called friction and I discovered it when I went to Japan what it does is allow me
to erase the design as I’m measuring my strips and imagining them then I write
down the measurement and if I decide to change the measurement later on I can
easily erase it so I love this friction pen and I’ll link to it in the notes
below so one of the viewers asked me to show how I determine a length of a strip
I actually use centimeters in my quilling one centimeter is divided into
ten little millimeters for me to measure a millimeter is so much easier than to
say 1/16 of an inch let me show you how I
go about determining this length so this length here you can see the number five
is in here how did I get five let me just start by softening my strips so the
paper I’m using is kent’s and me tall paper it’s rather thick so I tend to
like to soften my strip just to warm up those kind of fibers and I just put my
strip on my design and about midway is where I kind of pinched it so then I
bring it to my ruler and you can see where my finger is here and I put it
against my ruler and it says two and a half so two and a half times two is five
and in this case I’m going to tear my strip and I like to just use the rulers
edge to just tear like that so at that point I can just soften a little bit
more just rub it right in the middle do you see how that brings the two ends
together like that then I just kind of shape it and place it on my design and I
confirmed do I want it longer shorter you know decide how you want it to look
then I would just add a little spot of glue bring those two ends together I
just hold it until it’s dry now I’m going to work on the next petal and
again I’m just going to place it on top and just pinch where I imagine halfway
to be a spot of glue on both ends and I’m just going to use my table surface
as a straight surface to align the edges up and bring those two ends together do
you see how that taper is it’s to a rather fine point and I’m looking for
that because I don’t want bulk and I’m going to get bulk because this paper is
so thick so to minimize that look that’s why I
want to tear and just put it back down just to confirm is this what you want it
to look like and then again just write down those measurements on here and you
know because I’ve got all this in the colors that I’m imagining it’s very easy
for me to change up the colors too to know I’m talking about the five here I’m
talking about the six here and those are the measurements that’s how I go about
figuring out the lengths of these strips and whatever mandala design that you
guys come up with you know hopefully you guys can share your techniques with me
as well where I’m guessing say this open scroll here I basically just put my
strip here and try to imagine it as best as I can try to imagine how much length
I would want to curl maybe it but you know go out there and put my fingers
here and it ends up being around five centimeters and that’s how come I have a
number five there then you know from there is the typical thing to just curl
your strip and I’m just going to unravel a little bit and re Ravel and just kind
of keep playing with it until you achieve what you like if it’s too too
short you just have to remake it again if it’s
too long you know you snip off the end and just
adjust until you like what you see and then you know write down the measurement
and that’s how I worked my way all around here good luck with yours and I
can’t wait to see your masterpiece I hope my tutorial today inspires you to
give your quilling monogram a try with mandalas and if you do I’d love to see
it tag me okay if you enjoyed this video
please give me a thumbs up or even better leave me a comment I love knowing
which tip you enjoyed most or how it’s helped you in your quilling hearing your
enthusiasm is what gives me and I’d also love to see your work so tag me
in your photos you

3 thoughts on “Quilling Letter Y – How to Make Mandala Monogram Pattern and Tutorial

  1. Greetings and many thanks and appreciation Cecelia for this great tutorial!! You go above and beyond as usual. I really appreciate the fact that you do not assume that people can fill in the blanks if they have never done all of the steps. Especially as regards the transitions from the templates to the printer on to the layout of the design. Much of my work is done on a gifting basis which is then framed in shadow boxes by the grateful recipients. Your layout suggestions , as to leaving the proper margins , are a great idea for me now ,as it will help folks who want to frame them. I think too that this raising the letter up slightly will provide room for more border quillling embellishment on the bottom area as an accent base. Keep up the good work and again thanks a bunch.🎯M

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