Polymer Clay Cutlery

Polymer Clay Cutlery

so for this week’s video I wanted to show you how I cover Cutlery, and I’m going to do this in my Mica Mash Cane. the first one that I made, as I’m making a set for a Wedding. so anyways, this is what you’re going to need – you can use a little bit of translucent liquid sculpey or bake and bond. you’re going to need your cutlery, which I’ve just bought from a dollar store. make sure you get stainless steel or a metal anyways handle on it you don’t want any plastic on that.You will need a roller and a blade and some patty paper or parchment paper, some kind of thin paper. and after the first layer is baked I’d like to use these drywall screens, this one is grit 220 I believe. but some coarse sandpaper work just as well. and we’re going to start with a layer of clay, I’ve done this on a number two on my pasta maker. it’s white but it’s not really clean white so it doesn’t have to be pristine and so let’s get started with this. so I’ve cut a piece and this is going to do both sides. and I’m approximately three and a quarter inches the length that you come down is really up to you I’ve got one in the oven right now that’s at three and a quarter so I’m going to match it. you don’t want to go too far down, you have to consider what type of food this is going to go in. if it’s a liquid so if you’re doing like I have a ladle here. ladles tend to get dipped into liquid quite a bit, so I’m going to keep this one short. I don’t want this part going in like if I had the clay coming up to here I wouldn’t want that part going in the liquid. so anyways, on this – this is salad spoon or serving spoon, so it’ll be fine. so I’m going to take this and I have to consider that I’m narrower closest to the bowl of the spoon than I am at the top, so out of this sheet here – I’m going to get two pieces and I’m going to cut it on a little bit of an angle and just straighten out an edge on both sides. I have this side done already so I’ll take one of these and I’ll place it on – well first of all we’ll use a little bake and bond. I’ve done them without the bake and bond, and it works fine. or this one is TLS but either one will work You don’t want a lot on here, if you put too much on it gets too slippery. a little bit will help keep it tacky, and there is an advantage to using it it really seems to help prevent bubbles as you’re smoothing it out so that just takes a moment to do. so now I’ll lay the clay on, and as you can see if I flip this over, – first of all let’s straighten that line out a bit. so I don’t need too much clay up at the top and I’m going to fold that over now put the piece on the other side matching the placement of it and just smooth it on with my with my fingers and then I’m going to trim all this off so I’m just going to run that blade take off that excess so now with my fingers I’m going to begin to bring the edge over to cover the the steel part. I find that seems to be the best way to do it, if you’re just – you know, smoothing it out and if you got too much here it it just becomes a big lumpy mess, so this way I really find it helps control the lumps, and you don’t need that much on the side you want enough so that you can sand it later but – so I’ll take a little time and smooth that out so I’m trying to apply equal pressure on both sides to bring that to- right to the edge, and seal up that that gap. By not having a lot of extra clay on here too, it really helps to prevent air bubbles forming so now you need to take a good-sized roller. they say, and I believe it’s true – that a large tool helps to smooth things out better than a small tool. so I’m just going to spend a little bit of time smoothing this out and then I’ll use a piece of paper to help refine it so then I’m going to use a piece of patty paper, and then with my hands, I can start smoothing that joint. if you try it with your fingers, your your hands will stick with it and then you pull the clay and it distorts it. with a piece of paper, you can do a lot more with the clay, in a more of a gentle way. you just want to make sure that you don’t get any creases in there because that will transfer it to the clay. this layer is not that critical, but if it’s not nice and smooth when you put a very thin veneer on it your your piece won’t be nice and smooth. so you do want to spend a bit of time with this. you can also use your burnisher over top and get those edges. I’m constantly lifting my paper so that it doesn’t stick enough to give me creases so that’s not too bad. I might spend another couple of minutes on it but I won’t bore you with that. we’re almost there. you’re going to bake this now, for at least 45 minutes. I’m using Premo so I’m baking at at 275 Fahrenheit. and when it’s out of the oven and cooled I’ll be back to show you what the next step is so my spoon is cured and this is the one I was working on and I’m going to have to shorten- you can see how much longer I got. I’m going to shorten it so that they match. so that was just a matter of running my blade through this area and then removing this bit of clay. so that one is ready to be cured. so we’ll work with this one. so the first thing I like to do is I like to use a paint scraper on it. and that’ll take some of the lumps and things away. it should be fairly smooth because you spent some time doing it but this is this is going to really help scrape away some of that. any lumps that your fingers put in. one thing I neglected to say, if you develop a bubble while you’re doing that make sure you pierce your bubbles, and work them out and I’m not going to take too much off of the sides because I know there’s not a lot of clay on the sides. so just enough to smooth it out I love these little paint scrapers and like I said I sharpen them with the ceramic cup method, from my last tutorial and just keep them in good shape. this saves a lot of sanding let see just a little divot there so that’s probably pretty good so now I’ll take that drywall screen the advantage of using this is that it’s just – I don’t know how to describe that, it’ll take the contour of the piece for sanding better you have to be careful you don’t scratch your metal. the scraper has a hard time going around curves. I guess that’s what I want to say. so feel it with your fingers see if you feel any lumps and bumps. the veneer I’m going to be putting on here, is quite thin so any imperfections is going to show. you could put a thicker veneer on but I’ll tell you the reason why I use a thin one, is you get a lot less lumps and bumps from a thin one. probably because you don’t have as much clay to to put dents into. so I prefer a thin veneer. gives me a better finish. – so that’s good that’s good enough so I’m going to take a second to clear off my space, and then we’ll do the veneer. so I’ve sliced some slices from my cane this is the first Mica mash cane that I made. not the one I did in the tutorial, but similar one. and I’m going to put these slices side by side and squish them together with my fingers and I know I what I want. we’ll put that one this way. I want the gold color running down the center of my spoons so that’s why I’m orienting them this way. that’s probably enough so then I’ll put another piece of Patty paper on top, and begin to burnish this with – these are those stainless steel odor removers, I think they’re called. you can buy them at Amazon and some kitchen shops so I’ll spend a bit of time really binding those seams together. this cane is very forgiving, so it’s not like a flower cane or something that you might distort with your burnisher. so you don’t have to worry about that too much. and just want to make sure those edges are burnished really well because there’s so much mica in there and it’ll show the seams otherwise. so then I’ll take this to the pasta machine and I’m going to put it in this way so that I elongate -make this end wider, I don’t want it longer I want it wider and I’ll start probably at a number two because this is probably thinner than the two anyways and work my way which is the second thickness, and I’ll work my way to a 5 which is quite thin. I have nine settings on mine so five would be quite thin so I’ve done one already and this is what I ended up with so I’ll set these slices aside, and we’ll work with that. ok so here’s my spoon so I’ll lay this on we’ll put a little bake and bond first, or TLS I’m at the bottom of my bottle. ok so now we’ll lay that on the spoon and I’m going to cut it now if you got wide enough actually let’s split this the other way around because I’m wider on the other side if you get it wide enough you might be able to do this all in one one pass so let’s try that. we’ll start folding this over, kind of stretching it as I go probably won’t make it, but we’ll see. where it overlaps I’m going to just trim it just encourage that clay to stretch and that’s getting closer If you’re going to get an air pocket anywhere, it’s usually right here at the top and then at the bottom I just use my blade or for any kind of tool and just kind of bevel that in, so that you’ve got a nice edge. A blade will work for that too that’s pretty good. that stretched not too badly. you could choose to do it the same way we did the white veneer, where you would put a solid piece on the back and a solid piece on the front. if I was doing a cane that had a pattern to it I’d probably want to do that. this kind of cane, I don’t think it’s quite as important. so I’ve got a little air bubble there, so that’s got to be pierced let that air out so as soon as you get that as smooth as you like it, it’s ready to be baked again, I’ll bake it for what I call a full bake so I usually bake it for an hour, but another 45 minutes would probably be sufficient. and then these really benefit from hand sanding and polishing any sealers that you’re going to use on them you know probably will wear off. you’ll have to tell whoever you’ve given these to, to keep them out of the dishwasher but not because they’re going to ruin them physically but they’ll – the dishwasher soap will etch the finish. so and if you certainly if you used a varnish that would it would probably come off. so, but I sand them and polish them by hand. and they’re beautiful. so that’s how you do that, I find they’re really well received. Anyone I’ve ever given any to, have just been really happy with them. makes a really nice gift so I hope you try these, if you haven’t already and I’ll see you next time. bye

18 thoughts on “Polymer Clay Cutlery

  1. I recently purchased similar serving items from a restaurant supply business that was closing. I was hoping to work toward covering the handles in clay. Thanks to you I have a better plan, you have obviously worked out all the issues. I hope to give them as Christmas gifts, trying to plan ahead.

  2. Beautiful tute! Love the end results, you are one of the few Americans that speech English beautifully, you diction is excellent and I understand you! Thank you dear!

  3. Patricia, I'm so happy you made this tutorial. When I saw these pieces in a previous tute, I thought they looked fantastic–so professional–and am so pleased you are sharing your wonderful techniques with us. Thanks so much!

  4. Thank you for sharing your method! Honestly I thought it seemed like too much work at first, but then I made some crochet hooks this way, and I think I would have ruined my cane slices otherwise!

  5. "A large tool helps to smooth things out better than a small tool" Cracked me up! I'm listening with ear phones and my husband is looking at me like I'm loosing it. I love your videos. I have lots of questions, but I find that as I'm watching your videos, you are answering them all. Very much information and easy to understand.

    I remember when I first saw poly clay many years ago, I thought it was glorified Play-doh. WOW it's come a long way, Baby! I have recently started working with it and I'm in love! You have been most helpful. Can't tell you enough how much you have helped!

    I guess the only question I still have is about baking temps and times. Have you done a Tutorial? I'd love to see one explaining. I noticed that most clay artists bake things much longer than the package suggests. Does the longer baking time make a difference, if so, what is the difference. And questions like that. THANKS AGAIN! Hugs to ya!

  6. First of all, absolutely gorgeous work and I don't just mean these lovely cutlery pieces! I have recently found your videos because I am thinking about trying polymer clay as I already do bead embroidery and would like to take my work to the next level. I have to say you are absolutely inspirational and are definitely one of the top poly clay artists on YT. Quick question- are these cutlery dishwasher safe with the clay on them? Oh! And is the finished clay food safe? Any tips you can give to a beginner wanabe poly clay artist would be much appreciated! Thanks so much for all these great videos!

  7. Thanks for sharing. . Awesome idea for my nephew who lives by his self. . And is a football fan that I can ad his colors to match . . 😎 😎 😎

  8. Wow! Patricia, very well done, I love your sanding tools and I really didn't think you would have got the veneer to fit, so very clever you are. Thanks for sharing.

  9. I got here because I was thinking about doing this to a set of silverware, but I am not sure how durable it would be.

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