Origami New-Found Hope Star (Andrey Hechuev)

Origami New-Found Hope Star (Andrey Hechuev)


Hey guys, this is Evan from EZ Origami! And today I’ll be teaching you how to fold an Origami New-Found Hope Star designed by Andrey Hechuev. This is a great looking modular model and it’s not very difficult to fold. This model requires 8 square sheets of paper. Each unit is folded from one square, and I recommend using 3 inch squares to fold the units. Using 3 inch squares will result in a model about 5.5 inches wide. I also recommend folding this model with different colors of paper and creating different color schemes for some really unique variations. I’m going to be using larger paper with color on one side and white on the other just to make it a bit easier to follow along. And once you’ve prepared your paper, then we’re going to start with our first square with the white side up. And this is going to result in a completed model with a white inner star. And we’re going to start by folding in half diagonally. So take this bottom right corner and fold it up to the top left corner. Align the corners and the edges, then make your crease. And then we’re going to rotate the paper so that the long folded edge is now held horizontally. And now we’re going to make a small vertical reference crease on this bottom edge. So we’re going to do that by folding this bottom right corner over to the bottom left corner. So we’re essentially folding the entire model in half. And once both of those corners are aligned, then we’re going to make a small crease on this right edge here, just like this, and then you can unfold. And now we’re going to fold over this right edge and align it with the small vertical reference crease that we just made. So we’re going to start by pulling this right edge over to the left, just like this. And once the edge reaches the very top point of the model, then we just want to make a small pinch mark like this. Then you want to continue pulling the right edge of the model over to the left until it also aligns with the small reference crease at the bottom. Then you can make your crease through all layers, and then you can unfold. And now we’re going to lift up the model, and we’re going to unfold the layer from behind so that we’re back to the original square. Then we’re going to rotate the paper 90 degrees so that the two creases we just made are now held at the bottom. So let’s start with this crease on the left, and what we want to do is simply re-fold along that existing crease just to make sure it’s a valley fold, just like this. And then we’re going to do the same thing on the right, except this crease should already be a valley fold. So we’re simply going to fold up the bottom of the model along that existing crease. At this point, you’ll see that the center of the model will not lie flat, so what we want to do is reinforce this existing mountain fold here. So we’re going to do that by lifting up the model from the bottom, and we’re simply going to fold the entire model in half along that existing mountain fold, just like this. Then you can put the model back down and flatten out along existing creases, and now we’re going to slightly rotate the model so that the long colored edge is now held vertically. And now we’re going to make a horizontal crease that extends from this right corner here. So we’re going to start by lifting up this top layer of paper, and we want to make a small pinch at this right corner here. Then what we want to do is continue pulling up that top layer until the white and colored vertical edges are aligned. Then you can make your crease all the way across. Then from here we’re going to turn the model over and we’re going to do the same thing. And this time our crease is going to start from this corner on the left. So we’re simply going to pull up the top layer of paper, and we’re just going to make a small pinch at that left corner,just like we did on the other side. Then you want to continue pulling this layer up until the white and colored vertical edges are aligned. Then you can make your crease all the way across. And once you’ve done that on both sides, your model should look like this. And now we’re going to lift up on this top layer of paper and we’re going to fold it over to the left as far as it goes. And you’ll see that you’re left with this square shape. Then what we want to do is slightly rotate the model so that the crease running through the square is now held vertically. And now we’re essentially going to create an upside-down kite base. So we’re going to start by folding in this top right edge here and aligning it with this vertical crease. So start by pulling over the right side of the model, and we just want to start at the top and work our way down until the edge is completely aligned with that vertical crease, just like this. Then you can make your crease. And then we’re going to do the same thing on the left. So we’re simply going to pull the left side of the model over to the right. Again, we want to start at the top and work our way down until the edge is completely aligned with that vertical crease. Then you can make your crease. And once you’ve done that on both sides, your model should look like this. And now we’re going to lift up the top layers on the left and we’re going to fold them over to the right along this existing vertical crease here. So we’re simply going to fold the top of the model in half, just like this. And then we can flatten out the model along existing creases. And once you’ve done that, then we’re going to turn the model over. And this is one completed unit. Now you must fold seven more. And once you’ve folded all 8 units, you’re going to need 2 to start the assembly. Then look at one, and you’ll see that we have a pocket inside of this white layer here. And if you open up the model from the top, you can see that we have these two white flaps here. So once again we’re going to take our second unit, and what we want to do is slightly separate the two layers on the left side of the model. So we’re going to do that by simply pulling the two layers apart, just like this, so that we can see the two white flaps inside. Then we can put the second unit back down and again lift up the first unit. And from here we want to slightly open up the pocket on the first unit just like I did before so that you can see the colored layer inside. And I find it easier to connect the units if you hold the pocket open like this. So from here, we again want to pick up the second unit, and we want to slide both units together like this. And at this point, we want to slide the colored pocket on the first unit underneath the two white layers here on the second unit. So we want to continue sliding both units together, just like this, again making sure that the two white flaps are on top. And this is important because it helps lock the unit together. And once you’ve made sure that the two white flaps are on top of the colored pocket, then we’re going to close the units together so that both units lie flat. And at this point, you’ll notice that the two units are perpendicular to one another. So what we want to do is push the second unit over to the left and we want to push the first unit over to the right. So we’re carefully going to slide the units in opposite directions, just like this, and you want to keep pushing them together as far as they’ll go. You’ll see they reach a point where they don’t want to go any further, and if you’ve done this correctly, you’ll see that the white layers will align at the center of the model and it will create a nice 90 degree angle here. And once you’ve done that, then you’ve connected the first two units. Then we’re going to slightly rotate the model and we’re going to add a third unit the same way. So again, we want to start by separating the two layers on the left side of the third unit. So just open them up like this so that we can see the two white flaps inside. Then you can put the third unit back down, and we’re going to lift up the other two units that we already connected. And again, we want to slightly open up the pocket on the second unit just so that we can see the colored layer inside. And again, I find it easier to connect the units if you actually hold the pocket open like this. So once again, we’re going to lift up our third unit, and we’re going to slide the second and third units together. And again, we want to make sure that the colored pocket on the second unit goes underneath the two white flaps on the third unit. So just push the units together like that, and make sure that the layers are in the correct position. Then you can bring the layers together just to flatten out the units. And again you’ll notice that the second and third units are perpendicular to one another. So we’re simply going to push the third unit over to the left and the second unit over to the right. So you carefully want to push both units in opposite directions, just like this. And you want to continue pushing them together until they don’t want to go any further. And once you’ve reached that point, you’ll see that the white layers on both units will align in the center and it will create this nice 90-degree angle here. Then we’re going to slightly rotate all three units, and now we’re going to connect a fourth unit the same way. So now we’re going to take our fourth unit, and again we’re going to start by separating the two layers on the left side, just like this. Then we’re going to lift up the other three units, and we’re going to open up the pocket on the third unit just so that we can see the colored layer inside. And just like we did before, we’re going to slide the third and fourth units together, again making sure that the colored pocket on the third unit goes underneath the white layers on the fourth unit. And once the layers are in the correct position, then you can flatten out the model. Again, you’ll see that the third and fourth units are perpendicular, so you want to slide the fourth unit over to the left while you slide the third unit over to the right. And you want to continue sliding both units together until they don’t want to go any further .Then we’re going to rotate the model once again. And now we’re going to repeat this process on the remaining four units. So just keep adding units the same way until you’ve reached the last one. And as you add more units, you’ll start to see that the new layers will overlap the old units. So you just want to keep the new layers on top. And once you’ve connected all eight units, then we need to connect the first and last units together. But it’s difficult to slide these two units together, so we’re going to have to do something a little bit different. So we’re going to start by turning the model over, just like this, so that the first unit is now held on top. And what we want to do is slightly separate the two layers on the top of the first unit, and we want to slide the last unit’s flap inside. So we’re going to do that by pulling the last unit’s pocket up from underneath, just like this, and placing it in between the two layers that we just separated. Then you can close the model back up, and once again you’ll see that you get this 90 degree angle. So the paper aligns just like it did with the other units. But at this point, the units aren’t connected because the first unit’s flaps are not inside of the last unit’s pocket. So what we’re going to do is lift up on this top layer here on the first unit, and we’re simply going to pull the top white flap out from underneath, just like this. And now we’re going to reinforce this existing valley fold by folding this point inside of the colored flap on the last unit just like we’ve been doing. So we’re carefully going to tuck the white flap inside of the colored pocket on the last unit just like we’ve been doing, just by reinforcing that existing crease, just like this. And now the units are partially connected. Then we’re going to turn the model over and we’re going to do the same exact thing on the other side. So once again, we’re going to lift up on the top layer of paper on the first unit and we’re going to pull out the white flap from inside, just like this. Then you can flatten it out. And again, we want to tuck this flap inside of the colored pocket on the last unit, just like we’ve been doing. So we carefully want to tuck that white flap inside, just like this. Then you can carefully slide the last two units together. And once you’ve done that on all 8 units, then your Origami New-Found Hope Star is complete! I hope you’ve enjoyed this video tutorial on how to fold an Origami New-Found Hope Star designed by Andrey Hechuev. Free to upload photos of your completed model to the YouTube Gallery on my website to be featured here in my next video, or simply upload your photos to Instagram with the hashtag #ezorigami to be featured here as well. Also, be sure to check out Andrey’s Instagram and Flickr photostream for more of his impressive work. I’ll post the links in the video description below. And if you liked this video, definitely check out some of the other low intermediate origami tutorials featured on my YouTube channel as well. Again, I hope you’ve enjoyed this video. Please comment, rate, subscribe, and thank you for watching!

33 thoughts on “Origami New-Found Hope Star (Andrey Hechuev)

  1. Wonderful tutorial Evan ๐Ÿ™‚ I think I may give this a go today actually. Nice explanation about locking the first and last units too, I think this is always the most difficult step on any model. A trick someone once taught me was to assemble half the units into two separate assemblies and then bring the two halves together. I'm not sure if this would work with this model, but I will have a go and see ๐Ÿ™‚

  2. Hey, that's a very well explained tutorial as always, Evan! And nice star design! ๐Ÿ™‚
    Thumbs up for your video! ๐Ÿ‘

  3. Thank you sooooooooo much for posting a recent video I got very worried that you stopped posting

  4. I don't know what I did wrong…..when I was trying to do the last unit the two last units were to far apart and the first to came apart. Any suggestions?

  5. simple and easy to understand. your tutorials for this you getting ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘and share with my friend's ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

  6. Fidget Spinner!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  7. I am so glad I rediscovered this ๐Ÿ˜€ I remember watching your vids back in 2010 and 2011. Time flies doesn't it?

  8. Ciao!!!
    I see, i didn't thank You yet on public for such a great job You did!! ๐Ÿ˜‰ ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป
    Really well made tutorial =)
    (we should made maybe some more?)
    ( who knows =) )

    PS: did You see variations Francis Ow made from this discover of mine? ๐Ÿ‘€
    (collected them into one flickr gallery)
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/photo_amami/galleries/72157681928728284/

  9. How does he make it look so easy, mine looks like a woman who was just beaten up by her own child and she is depressed.

  10. Hey guys, hope all of you are doing well! I just created a YouTube channel and I would really appreciate it if any of you guys could go check it out and maybe give me some support and feedback on stuff I could improve on. I'm hoping to get as good as EzOrigami ๐Ÿ™‚ Great vid, btw!

  11. Excelente su tutorial aunque no se su idioma me fue fรกcil seguirlo, muchisimas gracias por enseรฑar , felicitaciones.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *