Origami Instructions: Waves (Meenakshi Mukerji)

Origami Instructions: Waves (Meenakshi Mukerji)

In this video I’m going to show you
how to fold the Waves model
designed by Meenaski Mukerji. The “Waves” module is
a very simple module with this kind of wave shape in it. And I’ll show you how to assemble
an icosahedron. That’s basically twenty faces that are equilateral triangles. And you have 12 such points,
vertices, and the vertices are each
connected by an edge. and there’ll be 30 edges. So we’ll need 30 sheets. Now each sheet needs to have an aspect ratio of 1 by 3. So if you take one square and cut into three strips that each have a width of 1/3 then we’ll get the paper we need. So if you start with 10 squares and then cut as I’m going to
show you in a second then you’ll be fine. Now this shape can be colored with three different colors so that same colored modules will never be
next to each other. But in this video I’m going to show this for five colors. I’m going to explain the
pattern for five colors. You can of course use all different colors
as I did in this one. Or you can use five colors
as I did in this one. You’ll see that with this coloring in each of these vertices you’ll see all five colors. I think that’s quite pleasing. You can also do this with
just one color. Now in this model I used tant, which is the recommendation that Meenakshi gave me for this model. And it worked really nicely. Especially because tant is available is so many colors it’s really nice to make this strong mix of colors. After that – so this was my
first attempt – after that I thought “This might be a really nice
Christmas decoration.” So I used foil. This a bit harder to work with but it’s nice and shimmery and I like that effect, too. And it didn’t work too badly. I’m going to be using kami
in this video. So the paper is white on one side,
colored on the other. It’s probably a bit harder to work with. So if you want to use copy paper or tant or something like that, then that’s probably easier for you. I’m going to use kami just because then I’ll have a white
and a colored side, so it should be a bit clearer for you. Now this model is diagrammed in Meenakshi Mukerji’s newest book
“Origami Inspirations”. It came out, I think, in August 2010. But I only got my copy 2 days ago. So I’m quite excited! There’s a lot of models in here, very clear diagrams, a lot of variations for the models, too. I think it’s about 34 models,
plus extra variations. So that actually adds up to a lot more. There’s a section
with guest contributions, which is really interesting. So models like this and that. If you know Meenakshi’s work you’ll say “Oh, that doesn’t look quite
like her work!” Well, that’s true, because it’s
a different designer. So this is the instructions page for the “Waves” model, which I’m going to be explaining to you in this video. There’s a cool section in the beginning – I just wanted to mention that – which explains the different polyhedra and colorings for those. Both the 3-coloring and the 5-coloring
are in there. I’ll be explaining the 5-coloring. But, of course, you can always do various polyhedra with modules. So we’re going to be going for the icosahedran. I’m going to be using clips – what are they called – binder clips – to make it easier to assemble the model. I’ll a link to where you can
buy this kind of stuff. You can get it in any stationary,
but people will probably appreciate a direct link to – Amazon I’ll add. As I said, I’m going to start
with 10 sheets I’m going to be using 5 colors, so two sheets per color. And we’re first going to cut
these into thirds. I’m going to be using a messy method to get that third.
Let’s get those clips out of the way. Because I don’t think
it’s quite that important to get it 100% precise. Often, with thirds, I’m quite lazy. You can watch one of my videos on how to get a third in an exact fashion, or you can measure. For example, if you’ve got
a 15cm square, then you can measure at 5cm and 10cm. By the way, I wanted to mention that this model I folded with 15cm
squares – or 6in. The strips are then 5cm by 15, or 2in by 6in. Then the resulting model has a diameter – I’d say maybe that’s this distance – the diameter is then 10cm or 4in. So the diameter is about
double of the strip’s width. This smaller model I folded with – here come some strange numbers – 3.9cm by 11.7cm. That’s about 1.5in by 4.5in. Then the diameter is about 8cm or about 3in. So, now, let’s get started now. As I said, I’m going to be
doing a messy 1/3, but you can view one of my videos
to get them exact, or measure with a ruler. So what I’m going to do is bend the paper in an S-shape. Now the idea is that you try to get 1/3, and check whether it’s a third by aligning the second area. So here I can see this distance is too long, so I’m going to
shift this over by a bit, make a small pinch, and then try again. Still too long. Try again, still too long, and now – for reference, I guess – now it’s too short.
Can you see that? There’s this white area turning up. So I’m going to shift
the paper a tiny bit back. I’m making this look
quite complicated, aren’t I? Anyway, now you’ve got
a nice third. Then fold along that third. That’s the first one, and then fold in the other edge to meet that one. I like to make this perpendicular,
and then just push it, so that
you’ve got a perfect alignment. Then do the same thing
with the other side. This is basically
making the first step of the modules easier.
You need thirds there, and like this you add those creases to 3 modules
at the same time. Then you’ve got 9 squares. We’ll use a cutting mat. I folded all valleys
(on the color side). If you did valleys only in one direction I’d suggest you cut where you don’t have both valleys – that’s the direction that’s preferable
for the first crease. Then I take a ruler and I push it to the crease line – make the paper perpendicular again and push the ruler against it – then you’ll have perfect alignment. Then, in one stroke, cut. You can of course cut differently. When I travel I sometimes just do this: Make a strong crease in one direction, and the other direction, too. Then slighlty dampen your fingertip and stroke against that edge. Then
– I know this is really outrageous – rip the paper. By slighly dampening the paper
just in that spot it rips much more easily right there. So you’ll get a relatively nice edge. Then you’ve got your three strips. Now let’s go ahead
and fold one module. If you’re using kami – so the paper is
white on one side – then start with the color side up. We already have valley folds here. If not, make them into valley folds now. Then fold in one third, then fold back the edge, you’re creating 1/6. Then flip over, and again align with that edge at 1/3,
that crease line. And then the last one. You’ve got a closed edge here, and an open edge right there. Let’s have the open edge in the bottom and then first just take one layer and crease it up, so that this edge aligns with
the top edge. Now if you’re using kami you’ll see some white here. If you worked on the closed edge,
it’d still be colored. Then open up one layer. Then take all the remaining layers and fold them up to that crease line. And close it again. Then flip this over and we basically want to do
the same thing again. But this time, the edge is locked. So what we’ll do is
precrease all these layers, and then open this pocket here and just stuff all those layers inside, and then make sure
the module closes nicely. You’ll see that when we open
this up a bit there’s a lot of layers
of paper right here, and very few here – only two layers. And here again, lots of layers, and very few layers. So if you place the module
between your thumb and index finger and you push them together and you release this middle layer a bit, it will naturally form a wave. That’s because in the top
the paper wants to go where there’s only little paper,
and in the bottom it’s the same. You can also use your fingers
to strengthen that curve. And then your first module is all done. Now you only need to fold 29 more. Once you’re done with all the modules we’re going to start assemblying. First, let’s take two differently
colored modules. We’re first going to create a 5-point. – one of these vertices. You can see that – let’s take this bone folder – here there’s a pocket – right there. There’s a pocket there and this is the flap. You’ll just want to connect
these two like that. Try to really make those
points meet in the top. Right here. Down there they will shift apart, especially when we add more modules. But don’t worry about that. I said each vertex was going to have all five colors,
so we’re going to take one module of each color
for the first 5-point. And each time – you’ll see this one I’m inserting
into the yellow one and this one will go into the green one. So Meenakshi to
not necessarily use kami, because then the modules may
fall apart quite easily. So we’ll see how that works out
in this video. Now you’ve got that final flap. And you’re going to insert it into
the last module you added. And it may already try to
fall apart here. Just try it carefully. Or, if you’ve got clips, for example these binder clips
are really helpful, you can start connecting these modules. What I’ll do is you can see that you’ve got three layers for each module. And I’ll just connect these two to ensure that they stay connected. That’s one, and I’ll use
two clips for each vertex. This might be a bit early to add clips but it shouldn’t hurt. Now to the coloring rule. You’ve got five modules, and I want to add a module right here to connect these two. You’ve got brown and pink here, and then two extra modules, and this is the one that’s centrally opposite to that edge I’ll be adding. And that’s yellow,
so we’ll add yellow here. So for this one, I’d use green. For this it’d be brown. For this one it’d be pink. I hope you get the point. So let’s add a green one here. Is that what I started off with? No, I think I wanted to
add a yellow one. And again, it’s the same
mechanism for joining. There you go.
Now, let’s add the next one. We’ll form a ring around
that first vertex. We’re forming the first five equilateral triangles of those 20 that we’ll have in the end. And every time you add a module
check for the color. Later on you’ll maybe have to check
more carefully. But for those first ones it’s really easy to see it once you understand the concept. With colorings you can
always follow patterns. But I think it’s much easier
if you understand how the pattern is created. And then follow along with that. Else I’d go cuckoo, I think. If you know me, you’ll know that I’m not the best at modular origami. So if I can do this, I’m sure you can. I think it’s really fascinating, but I’m often a bit clumsy with assemblying. So, now we formed the first ring. And now we need to add more modules to finish that ring. How does this work? Do I need to add a green or blue here? Or in which pattern? If I add a blue one here, and a green one here, then you’ll see that here is a blue module, and it will be again right opposite of that edge. If I do it the other way around, now you’ll see that this green one will be
opposite of that blue edge.
We don’t want that. So the order is going to be:
first blue, to get that in the right spot, and then green. And when you add that last one again you have to be a bit careful. And then the next 5-point, the next vertex, is done. So let’s stabilize that by adding some clips. They’re really cheap. You pay a couple of dollars
for lots of them. Once you’ve got that 5-point you can again check –
does this work with the green, too? Here you’ve got the green
opposite of that green one.
Yes, that’s correct. And you can for example
add a pink one here. And then you can see this 5-point needs a yellow one. And again, yes, it’s opposite of that yellow module. Push that in, and them
I’m going to just again add clips to ensure that this doesn’t fall apart. If you’re using clips you might as well use as many as you think helps – rather than saying “Oh, I may only use five clips.”
and try to work with that. I don’t see much sense in that. It does make life much easier. I’m sure I’ll get the question whether you can use glue
to connect these. And the answer is:
Yes, of course you can. If you want to use glue,
a spot of glue to stabilize it, go ahead. I’m going to show this without, to show you that it’s possible. But it’s your choice, I’m not going to give you rules
that you need to follow. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. I don’t like using glue that much. Then you can move on to the next one. I hope you got the point by now. So I’ll probably speed up
this process now. Else we’ll be sitting here ages! Now the more modules you add you’ll find it will be a bit harder because there’s less space
in some ways. This is a good sign, because if you don’t have that
tension in the end, then the paper would just as easily fall apart once you removed the clips. So if you have to push for some space that’s actually a good sign. Because then all of the modules
are going to push against each other,
searching for space. This means they can’t just fall out. So don’t be worried if space gets a bit tight and you might have to
fiddle around a bit more as you go along
assemblying stuff. This is true for basically
any modilar, I think. Unless it requires glue, I guess. So let’s see, this is pink. If I add it like that it’ll be wrong, so I’ll add it like this. So let’s first take green. You’ll also see that in the end – hopefully – all the colors will be gone, and you always had enough of each color there. If not, some point must have gotten the wrong color, some edge. And if there’s one wrong color,
probably… you add others incorrectly, too. Because when you reference that one
incorrect color, it’s going to have its effects. So always make sure to add the tabs to the correct pockets. This is a tight spot here. Just as in the beginning,
it’s always the same, even if it’s getting
a bit tight to add them. After a while you’ll see that you actually have modules that just need to be connected. For example, here. These two belong together. As you go along you may have some flaps and pockets that aren’t connected yet, but can already be connected. I usually try to add everything so that I finish off all the tabs
right away. But sometimes
it may be easy to miss them. Just go ahead and add all of those. And another green one. I find these ones are the hardest,
the fifth of a vertex when you’re almost finished. That’s a really tight spot. And you can see I’m opening
this up a bit, trying not to disconnect the modules. And then trying to get that in there. In the top there’s usually a small gap where I can add that corner and once it’s in, I can push the model in all the way. So that might help you. Try to go for the top area to add to get that corner inside that pocket. I find that is the hard part of actually putting
those modules together. Just getting those corners
into the pockets. You can see:
we’re running out of modules. It’s a good sign, we’re almost done. Get everything correct, because what’s more frustrating than having it almost done and then see that you need one extra color. Do you now need to take
all of those apart again? I wouldn’t want that. So I really pay attention
to which colors I add. Or – that’s much easier – pick all different colors,
that’s really beautiful. Or you can also use just one color. If you’re doing the 3-coloring you’ll have to pay even more attention to where you place which colors. I’d have to study the pattern again
to explain it to you. I know there, and I’ve done
an icosahedron with 3 colors. It was more work, but I understood
the pattern back then, too. I don’t remember those patterns usually. I have to have a look again before. This one is really easy, so I can remember that. Right, last module.
This is the fun one. Let’s first secure all the rest. Because, as always, the module is the hardest to add, and I don’t want
anything to fall apart here. I’m not sure whether
that’s going to lock the model too much to actually add this. So this goes in here. You could probably cheat
and try not to insert one of the flaps into the pocket. But we don’t like cheating,
do we? I’m quite happy with
how this worked out. I didn’t have too many problems putting this together. If I can do it – c’mon guys,
you can do it, too. Look, that was the last one. So you can use kami. Use clips with it, please. Else everything will fall apart. Once all of that is done, we can remove all those clips. And as I said, now this
isn’t going to fall apart easily because of the tension, the modules need more space than they’re actually getting. They’re being pushed together,
which also makes the waves a bit stronger. That’s really nice. And you’ll see that then your “Waves” model your “Waves” icosahedron
is all done. It’s a fantastic model by
Meenakshi Mukerji. Now if you know me,
you know I don’t do modular origami a lot, but this model
really really inspired me. And there’s lots of
other beautiful creations in this book. If you like modular origami I’d say this is a must-buy. And if you’re like me and a bit “modularly challenged”
– how’s that? – this a really good book, too. The explanations are clear, it’s very clearly shown
how to connect stuff and you can create beautiful things
such as these. Thanks again to Meenakshi Mukerji for this beautiful design, for this great book, and her permission to make this video
available to you. Happy Folding!

49 thoughts on “Origami Instructions: Waves (Meenakshi Mukerji)

  1. @darylncp Well, each modules only takes … well, less than a minute to fold. So it's not that bad, really.

  2. "If I can do it – c'mon guys, you can do it, too"
    yea right you just folded 1000's of origamis 😉

    PS. Herzlichen Glückwunsch zur Hochzeit 😀

    PPS. Wann erscheint dein Buch? ;-P

  3. @yoyomasta141 Ah, well, better to correct it like that than not at all. 🙂 Later on in the video I do say 20 correctly, but in the beginning I said thirty – probably because of the number of edges. I'm always nervous at the beginning of recording a video. Funny, huh? After all, I AM all by myself when I'm recording!

  4. @kevin4990 Certainly not thousands. And if you only count modulars, I really haven't done much of that!
    As to a book, no plans right now. I'm the video person. 😉

  5. @boffyful What kind of competition? I actually thought about doing some with the prizes like the models I actually created in the video. I haven't had any great ideas as to what the contestants would have to do, though.

  6. @boffyful Well, I don't know how many people actually have a video camera and would upload a video. It seems a bit restrictive that way.

  7. Thanks a lot Sara Adams. Video instructions make folding way easier than following instructions from book, especially for novice folders.

    -Chayan Deb

  8. @chayandeb Thanks. I do try. But of course, books offer so many more origami projects. 🙂

  9. In her book Ornamental Origami. She made an even simpler version of this. And that version can have multicolored "waves"! I think you should show that diagram

  10. Actually, it's mostly the same model. 🙂 The only difference is that you insert a second sheet of paper to achieve the color change. I wouldn't say it's easier, as the assembly is the same, and folding the modules is similar.
    But thanks for adding the reference. 🙂 The model is called "Icosahedron with Curves and Waves".

  11. I've done it!!!!!
    it's not looking as good as yours, but I think it's quite nice, either^^
    puh I almost needed an hour but I know love all my clips at home 😉

  12. @43bountyhunts With respect to YouTube videos, I've mostly concentrated on origami, yes. I do plan to post some kirigami videos later on this year, though.

  13. somehow i can divide a paper by eye i just fold there i think "that is one third" and it fits perfectly. isnt that wired?

  14. @43bountyhunts I'm really looking forward to you kirigami vids. Bye the way, Love your models 🙂

  15. I love your origami! My brother used to use your videos but then he gave up. I found your page through him 🙂 You are VERY talented!
    1 question: Would 80gsm work…? Thank you!

  16. @Luvpeaceheartsong The model is relatively stable when completed, but not extremely. I gave one away and it dropped on the ground and fell apart again. I quickly assembled it again, but it did teach me to perhaps use a spot of glue when giving away models. 😉
    Admittedly, the model was folded from foil, which is quite slippery. Using normal origami paper or Tant etc would probably have made it more robust.
    As to how long it takes to fold – depends on how fast you fold.

  17. This is incredible! I'm not the best at patience, but I may try this one 🙂 and thank you for such an incredible tutorial; just the right length and the camera was always well placed. Easy to understand. Thank you again.

  18. hey sara!!
    it's me again! I would love if you remade this model …for i have been wanting to make it but the quality is not upto the mark. I have a few more models that I would like you to remake. thank you for your sincere efforts.
    Happy folding!!

  19. #remake please. This model is so beautiful, and it would be interesting to see how you would redo the tutorial.

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