Origami Instructions: Navel Shell (Tomoko Fuse)

Origami Instructions: Navel Shell (Tomoko Fuse)

In this video I’m going to
show you how to fold a navel shell designed by Tomoko Fuse. Diagrams can be found in the book “Spiral: Origami | Art | Design”
by Tomoko Fuse. It’s an absolutely wonderful book and you can check a written or a
video review both by myself for more details. You can find the links
in the video description. Now, in this video I’m going to be using a square sheet of paper
with a side length of 24cm or 9.5in. And the resulting model will then have a width of about 10cm or 4in and a height of about 6cm or 2.5in. So, let’s get started. First, lay down your paper with
the color of the shell on the reverse. So for me:
I want the shell to have this color, so I’m going to start
with the white side up. Then we’re going to crease the diagonal
by bringing point to point. And unfold. Now bring each of these edges
to the central crease, but I advise you to leave
just a slight tiny gap, because then it’ll be easier
to fold the model in again. So I’m not quite
going to go to the point and I’m not quite
going to touch the crease. And I find that to be slightly easier. In some ways controlled imprecision actually sometimes gives you
nicer results. So you can see here
I left a slight gap, which is where the paper shows. And then it’s easier to fold this
in half again. But now let’s first make
a crease right along this edge by folding in that paper. You want it to be
quite a straight crease, so you pinch one point
and then you align this crease line with
the bottom crease line or that gap that you left. And crease. Unfold again and we’re
going to flip over the paper. Now we’re going to take the bottom point, the tip, and bring it to
exactly that intersection of these two creases
we already made. And crease. You want to make quite strong creases, so use your fingernail. Not the tip, but this wide area. Or if you have it, use a bone folder or a chopstick
or anything like that. Unfold and align that crease with the crease line in the top to divide that section into half. And again, make a nice, sharp crease. Then divide into quarters by bringing this crease line
to that one and unfold. And this crease line to the top one. You will do yourself a big favor if you make strong creases here,
especially especially right in the end, because you will need those
as a reference later. Unfold and now we’re going to
divide into eights. So align this crease line
with that one, this one with that one, this one with that one, and this with that one. And unfold. Now we’re going to take the tip again and align it with not
with crease lines themselves, but inbetween.
This is a full section and then we’re going to go in
half a section. I’m just going to eyeball that. I’m not going to be super precise here, because it’s totally ok. And go just about halfway between
these two creases. And make a crease. Then I’m again going to jump
one and a half sections. So this is half, and one,
so we’re going to be right along the crease. And crease. And then again one and a half – this is the third crease
we’re making. Then going one and a half, the fourth crease. The fifth. Let’s just put some weight on here. And the sixth. You can go on for a while.
I think I’ll go down to eleven or something.
What was that? Number 6. Number 7. Number 8. 9. 10. And depending on your paper size
you may want to finish earlier or even go on longer, but I’ll stop here with
11 creases added. Now we’re going to flip over the paper and we’re going to take this top tip and we’re going to fold it in
so that it aligns with the second crease line. So I’m just going to turn the paper, align it with the second one – that’s the first one,
that’s the second one – and make a crease. Then I’m going to hide
the paper inside and so that it doesn’t
unfold in here again I’m going to repeat that crease line
here again, so that it’s also on
this layer of paper. Same with this one. So that’s the first one,
I’m just going to crease. And the second one I’m also going to crease
through those layers. So now it’s quite secured.
And we can push that flat again. Now we need to add
quite a bunch of new creases all along here.
They’re all going to be valley folds. And I’m just going to show you
on one of these. I’m going to start from this point
and make creases to the crease above, so that you have this slightly
diagonal crease. And we need to do that
on all of them. So one idea you might have is that you fold this in half and then you’d start a crease in
one of these points and go to the top. So I could for example
do it like this. Make a crease. And then you’d have
a valley fold on one side, a mountain fold on the other. And you could reverse the crease, so that it’s valley folds
on both sides. So that’s one way. But me personally,
I don’t think that precrease step helps a whole lot. So instead what I’d do is I’d just add those creases one by one, because you need to
reverse one in any case. So, I’m just going to turn this over,
because for this step then
I’d fold in the air, and I’d always
– let’s go with this one – I’d start the crease in this point and pinch it into place, so that we have a slight mark there. And then get that point pinched – there we go –
and then connect it by pressing. Same thing on the other side. I will say, though, that this is harder especially if you’re using
large paper and on these last sections. So here’s another tip:
you might want to use a ruler and a bone folder or an empty pen or a stylus – something that has a tip,
that isn’t entirely sharp, but where it does have a tip. And then you could align and then score the paper. And you can do that all the way. And I’m going to go ahead and make
the bigger ones with this method, and the smaller ones
just as I showed you before as we go along. I personally think it’s easier to do slightly different folding methods depending on where you are, because the creases require different skills in some ways, so using
different methods throughout the same step is absolutely legitimate and you’ll just have to see how you prefer adding the creases. This is just what I like to do. This is also what I’d do
even for the smaller sections when using slightly special paper. For example here I used furry paper and it was very difficult to
see creases and to get creases nicely and precisely, so I did that throughout. So depending on which paper you’re using it also will change
how you prefer making creases. Then I’m just going to
strengthen all of these creases. But the paper now will really want to go along those
score lines. It is going to be a lot easier. And you just do that all the way
here and also to the top. Now for the steps where I’m not scoring I like to pinch this into place up to the crease line and once you folded one side you can really completely
press that flat and then you’ll have
the exact reference point so that you always get a nice
point here, so that the creases meet in exactly
the right place. So, that might help you with getting quite nice precision without scoring the paper before. Once you’ve added all these creases we can start collapsing. For this we’re going to fold the model in half
– just like that – and now we’re always going to
go along the crease lines. So you’ll always have valleys,
which are the straight creases, and mountains, which are the
slightly diagonal creases. You can take the paper
and push it open a bit here to then push from this side
inside, so that this paper vanishes inside.
I’m going to show it from the back here. You can see the paper pushes inside and then you can close like that. I’m just going to show that again
from a closer view. So you’ve got this and then
you push in the paper just like that, so that it looks
the same on both sides. And then you do the second one. I actually forgot a small step.
You have this tip here. You might want to fold it in
a little bit. I guess you could also keep it
like that, if you like the look. But let’s keep with Tomoko Fuse’s design and we’re going to take that tip
and fold it in, so that it meets the end of
this first section – where you have a mountain fold. It will meet the second crease
you’ve got there. Once we’ve got that hidden inside we can start collapsing again, pushing that paper inside. It’s going to be a bit harder
this time again, because you need to add some creases on the paper you just folded in. And then just press it flat
to make strong creases. Then we can again do
the second one. And the third one. And the fourth one. And at some point you will see
that this tip here is going to be hidden by that mountain fold
that you’re going to fold. And at that point
you’re going to take it and put it on top. And now you want to always ensure that
this tip is on top. And then you go all the way
to the back. Always collapsing symmetrically
on both sides. You can see on both sides
it looks the same. And on the front
you’re going to put that start of the shell on top. And in the back the navel will
start to form. Especially as these sections get larger I prefer to fold just the front first
by itself and then the back by itself, rather than doing them
simultaneously. Once you’ve got the last one collapsed we can just press this flat a bit. It already looks quite beautiful, but this section still
needs to be finished off. For that we’re going to flip the model over.
You can see the nice navel here. You might say you prefer the back view
more than the front view That’s really just a matter of taste. Now, you can see that
there is an extra layer of paper here. You can see here:
it’s the central one of these two that meet this edge. We’re going to take that
as a reference point. So I’m just going to eyeball that, or we can make a small pinch mark. Now we’re going to add a crease line
from this point up to that point, a mountain fold. It doesn’t need to be
100% precise. It’s just so that you have an idea of
where to add the crease. Then we’re going to take this edge and align it with that crease line, leaving perhaps a slight gap, but definitely not going over it. You don’t want anything
like that happening. You really do want to have
it underneath, because then we’re going to tuck this inside to hide it, and you don’t want
any paper showing here. Then you’re going to take
the other side – do check that this is in the front – and also align it, make a crease, and then you can see we have
a pocket here. We’re going to bend this paper
to put it inside that pocket and
push the paper inside. You will have quite a lot of
layers of paper, so it’s not going to go
completely flat. And here you can see:
we want to again have a point in that corner –
or we want to form that corner. Once you have that
paper pushed in then you can fold it flat
by just really putting pressure on it, pressing it together. Straighten it out
until you’re happy. And once you’ve pressed it flat
quite a lot you can actually open it a bit. Round it open a bit, perhaps. And then your navel shell
designed by Tomoko Fuse is all done. I hope you enjoyed this video and if you enjoyed this model
as much as me perhaps you will be interested
in getting this book, which has many more wonderful models: “Spiral: Origami | Art | Design”
by Tomoko Fuse. Enjoy!

99 thoughts on “Origami Instructions: Navel Shell (Tomoko Fuse)

  1. ich benutze auch oft linial und ne alte nagelfeile zum falten ^^ nur mache ich keine linien oben auf sondern lege das linial auf und gehe unter das papier und falte das papier mir der nagelfeile

  2. Got it on the first try! Yes! Scoring the paper makes it so much easier!! This technique should help when folding the Spring into Action Model. Thank you!

  3. Where do you buy your paper and what kind of paper??? I need to get the paper right!!! Sorry! Thanks

  4. Thanks, Sara, for doing this tutorial. I'd seen this video often on your channel, but it is only recently that I gave it a try. It is a beautiful model. Also, I really appreciate the folding advice. It has made other models much easier to fold, i.e., setting the creases in the direction they are meant to go, rather than pre-folding. Thanks again.

  5. Eres muy generosa al compartir tu arte, te estoy siguiendo y disfrutando el rehacer los modelos que publicas. Gracias Sara.

  6. Managed to do it. Absolutely superb. Thanks so much Sara. My Mum loves the elegance of the logarithmic spiral of Nautilus shells, so I'll make her another in nice paper as a surprise. 🙂

  7. Thank you for such excellent tutorials. Love the way you explain steps and give tips. I am only just starting origami, and find that your tutorials are very clear and understandable. Thank you again.

  8. "make STRONG creases, use nails to make STRONG creases, you'll do yourself a favor if you keep STRONG creases". the result: torn paper. but I made it the same, your tutorials are great, and very clear explained.

  9. This sounds stupid but the editing is almost flawless in this video. The stop-go (to place the segmented lines) is a great help. And where is this paper found and what is the material or consistency of the paper? Tysvm! Beautiful Tutorial!

  10. thank you very much ! explainations are clear and precise ! I spend a good time doing this beautiful origami ! kiss

  11. Getting the spiral started was difficult, but this really turned out beautiful. Thank you for the tutorial!

  12. hi! i'm aimable, i like your work and i just wanna try that too and maybe make it as a career, bcz i enjoy doing some of this origami modals. but do you sell your work? if you do. how much does this one go for?!! thank you

  13. I just did one! Thank you Sara for all the wonderful instructions on your channel.

  14. #remakeplease I love this model so much. It's such a cleaver design. However, I always mess up when actually forming the shell. I'm not sure why, but my paper always rips or just makes unnecessary creases. I don't think it has anything to do with your video, but any tips would be most appreciated. I've tried folding this with large pieces of paper, small pieces, and everything in between. I've also tried using multiple different types of origami paper.
    Thank you, Sara!

  15. #remake

    this was the first model that i tried to make since i started 2014! they say shells are the jewels of the sea!
    i will definitely make more of this in a smaller version and i will put them in a bottle!….

  16. #cantstop The only thing better than watching this video is folding the model itself! Also, it looks like an average ammonite shell for me. 🙂

  17. #myfirst I think this is the first tutorial that I watched and folded. I enjoyed the model so much that I got my own copy of the book Spiral and I also shared the model with my origami group (Origami Mitra, Mumbai) and we had a shell collection at our exhibition in December 2016. This model was one that I had seen at an exhibition elsewhere and had wanted to learn and fold it for a very long time. Thank you very much Sara! 🙂

  18. Dear Sara, your explanation is soooo clear ,even an amateur can do easily. I did it and the feeling was amazing.. thanks for making the models look very easy and making me HAPPY! thanks a lot..

  19. teach pako pako pppppppppppppppppppllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaassssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeee

  20. Thanks so much for making this video, I don't feel I can afford a copy of the book at the moment but I'm really pleased to have a good video to still learn the model

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