Origami Instructions: “Jump” (Hans-Werner Guth)

Origami Instructions: “Jump” (Hans-Werner Guth)


In this video I’m going to
show you how to fold the “Jump” model designed by
Hans-Werner Guth. Photo diagrams are available
in his Picasa album. Here’s what you’ll need: You’ll need 12 sheets of square paper. You’ll need a circular stencil. The squares have the same size
as the circle. You can use a side length that is
a tiny bit longer (1-2mm, 1/16 inch) than the diameter of that circle. You will need a pen,
it doesn’t need ink. If it still has ink that’s fine, too. And a ruler, just to make life easier. It’s quite important which paper you use
for this model. It needs to memorize
the creases and the shape. I advise you use quite heavy paper. This is card stock
with a weight of 300gsm. You can also use a bit thinner paper, but don’t use normal copy paper.
It will probably be too thin. The model wouldn’t be as stable. Instead of a mug, you can use
other circular objects. For example, a bowl or a CD. A CD has a diameter of 12cm or 4 3/4 inches. You can use that, too. It should be something with a hard edge. We will use the pen to make curved creases by going along that edge. Instead of a pen, you can also use a bone folder with a tip
or a knitting needle or anything that you think works. The model consists of 6 units and each unit requires 2 squares. The inside color won’t be very visible, but the outside color
will be very prominent. I am going to use two different colors
so it’s easier to distinguish. Let’s first work on one of the
outside modules. For this we want to mark
the center of this edge. You can make a pinch mark, but this is quite heavy paper. So it’s difficult to make a pinch without adding creases
on the rest of the paper. We want to avoid that. Mark on all four sides. Now take your stencil and align it, so that the stencil touches this point and that point. Actually, there should be a slight gap. When you score along the stencil you won’t be hitting exactly the edge, but you will run along it. First align once aligned press down firmly and score along the stencil. Push down the pen quite strongly – or the knitting needle or
whatever device you’re using – to score the paper. Then proceed with the next corner. Once you are done with
scoring the paper you will see that you scored
four quarters of a circle which meet exactly
in the centers of the edges. Ensure that the paper is scored strongly by running the pen along the edge
several times. Now we’re going to make creases right where we scored the paper. The paper will automatically crease
if we push it in the right way because of the scoring. Put your fingers next to the scoring so that they do not cover the edge, but lie in the center of the paper to add a crease here. Then turn around and push to get that crease to emerge. Then move your hand to the next position and again push. Then do the same
with the other three corners. Once all four corners are done we want to strengthen these creases so that they round the paper more. For that push this point inside and then bring
these two points together. Squeeze the points together
like this. You don’t want to add any points. You want this to stay a curve. You have to find a balance between applying pressure while not forcing the paper too much. Now you’ve got a much rounder curve. Proceed with the other three corners. Then your first module is done. Now let’s fold
one of the inside modules. This time we want to mark the diagonal. This time
don’t push the pen down firmly, we don’t want to score the paper. We just want to mark the diagonal. You don’t need to mark the diagonal
in the center. We only need it on the corners. Now let’s align our stencil so that the circle touches these two diagonals. Again, remember to
leave just a slight gap to ensure that the scoring will actually lie
exactly on the diagonal. You will then see that this circle does not touch the square’s corner.
There’s a small gap. That is the way it’s supposed to be. Then proceed with the next one. Ensure that the next circle will not intersect with the other one
(only touch it) by again ensuring that the stencil is positioned correctly. As you can see these circles
meet in these points and we created small corners here. Now we will add creases as before along that scoring. Be sure to crease correctly
all the way to this point. Again, notice that the crease
does not touch the corner. This is going to be one of the flaps that is used to connect the units
later on. Once all four creases are done we’re again going to strengthen
those curves. Push in the paper here and then bring the two sides together. Push in, and bring two sides together to get a nice, strong curve here. If you use too light paper then the paper will not memorize
this shape. So if you’re having a hard time
getting the paper to curve in this way, try using heavier paper and that will probably help. Now let’s connect the two modules
to get one unit. These modules fit on top of each other. These are going to be our flaps, which will be inserted into pockets. This will be a pocket. To connect these two modules fold this corner behind, so that it
aligns with this edge. If you are using quite heavy paper you might want to use a tool
to make a strong crease here. And I will. You can use a chopstick here,
for example. Make sure that the modules are aligned correctly. If you use heavier paper, they will
align naturally because the paper
has no other place to go. Make strong creases all around. These corners can somewhat unfold, but if they’re curved – as I’m doing again by curling these
with both modules connected – then the corners can’t unfold,
because there’s some paper tension there. So curve these again to really connect these two modules to get one unit. We need 6 units, so fold 5 more. Then we can start connecting them. Let’s first take two. This is one of the flaps and will be inserted into a pocket. Open these modules slightly and then insert the corner off-center. Then move it over and connect. Then press the two units together
right in this point. The creases form a straight line there. Then take the next unit. Again connect by opening these, inserting, and shifting over. The thicker the paper is the harder this is going to be. I’m using quite thick paper, which sometimes makes it a bit tricky, but so far we’re doing fine. Now three units are connected. Then proceed with the next one. As you can see,
I try to open the units slightly to make it easier
to slide the next unit in, especially in the end. Then push the units together. There we go. Refold this. Strengthen the curve. As you go along sometimes you’ll see that you have to
strengthen a curve. You can also use your thumbnail to make that roundedness stronger. And assemble the units. I call these units. I’d say modules consist of one sheet. And because these consist of two I call it a unit instead. And then insert the last one. Open this up a bit, slip inside the corner, and once it’s inside shift it to the center to get the corners to meet. Ensure that the inside corners
didn’t unfold. Now check all connects
and adjust them. You don’t want any
small gaps to be visible. You’d see it especially obviously with the white paper that I used for the black and white units. Then your “Jump” model is all done. It’s a fantastic model
by Hans-Werner Guth, so do give it a try.

100 thoughts on “Origami Instructions: “Jump” (Hans-Werner Guth)

  1. great video, good instructions! maybe you could add the most important informations (paper size etc) in written form, would be cool for folding along while watching TV 😛 Thanks a lot anyway!

  2. @gabygarcia6 Yesterday evening I folded an assembled another one … it took about 60 minutes … If this is your first 'jump' to fold 120 minutes- I guess …

  3. made it to 8:35 and when she said it had to remain in its state or whatever i just turned off the ipad…. and thre away the paper….

  4. I thought that this origami was harder to make but isn't it…. =) i love your accent. I'll make it right now!! =D

  5. Hey sara!
    Thanks for all your vids. Can you please do a video of the variation of "jump" called Yamp that you have on your web page? Really looking forward to it. 🙂

  6. Extraordinary artwork here. U can't imagine how long I sought for a solution to fold paper in a curved way. Thank you milady. You are a bless.

  7. Made one easily with regular printer paper 🙂 You only need cardstock if you want a very sturdy one to throw around. For people just making it for the first time, I recommend NOT using 2 different colors per unit. Your mistakes will show, as she says in the video. Also, when you put the 2 pieces together to make a unit, try glueing the flaps. It holds it together better as you try to put the units together. Good tutorial!

  8. HI AdamsSara! I'm expert in origami too!(not always) I have a question for you: Where did you learn all of the origamis that you teach us? Is it in a book or in the Internet?

  9. I learn models from online diagrams (and sometimes crease patterns), from books, and from person-to-person teaching (e.g. at conventions). This is also true for the models I demonstrate in my videos. For example, I learned "Jump", because a friend of mine showed me how to fold it.

  10. Let's just hope the stack of papers I bought a while ago consists of thick papers…
    I REALLY want to try this out!

  11. I like using the back of my X-acto knife for scoring. It doesn't cut, since you are using the back of the blade, but it still has a fine point, and the handle gives good leverage.

  12. Very true! Although you'll have to be careful not to press too hard, as usually the back of the blade is still sharper than a bone folder.

  13. I bought some card-stock by mistake and I thought I wouldn't be able to use it for any origami but it worked perfect for this. So thanks for the tutorial!

    Can you recommend any other models that card-stock works for?

  14. There's a Facebook page for happyfolding, but I personally am not really on Facebook. I prefer Google+. 🙂

  15. i've found a really nice remake of the origami jump. straight creases are used instead of curves. i can't find tutorial though……..

  16. you can use card-stock for some jeremy shafer's models…
    such as the "origami heart attack" and the "frog's tongue!

  17. oh man!! i don't have any other paper than colored copy paper , what shall i do now? how will i be able to fold this?, can any one help me?

  18. Hi Sarah, as a amateur of the art, I have made so many of the above shape in different colours and sizes! Is there any links of tutorial for geometric/modern origami tutorials as it is my favourite line of interest . (Or have you more tutorials hidden away yet to share?) :-))

  19. Thanks Sara for the great video. I love the technique. Is there a video for the closed jump ball? If you would like to see my "Jump ball", it's on my blog at: vaversproductions.blogspot.com
    I glued all my flaps down before putting the ball together, made it a lot easier to put together.
    Also Thanks to Hans-Werner Guth for designing it. Great job!

  20. i really can't recall whether #myfirst video of yours is Star Box (Robin Glynn), Wall of Nine Cubes (Heinz Strobl), Fir Tree (Francesco Guarnieri), 'Just Twist' Twirl (Krystyna Burczyk) or this~ But since this was the first that i actually made, i'm gonna say it's this 😃
    Thank you so much for the clear instructions they really helped when i was starting out back in 2011 😊

  21. #myfirst
    Liebe Sarah, gratuliere Dir zu Deinem 10-Jährigen, mit diesem Video bin ich auf Dich aufmerksam geworden und seither ein treuer Fan!!! Deine ansprechenden und klar strukturierten Videos, so wie Deine offensichtliche Freude an Origami haben mich sehr inspiriert und ich freue mich stets auf Neues. Danke für Deine Leidenschaft und Dein Engagement. Herzliche Grüsse aus dem Rheinland, Gabriela

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