Origami Instructions: Grizzly Bear (Quentin Trollip)

Origami Instructions: Grizzly Bear (Quentin Trollip)


In this video, I’m going to show you how to fold an origami grizzly bear designed by Quentin Trollip. Check out his Flickr stream for many beautiful folds and designs of his. They’re really truly amazing; you really should check it out. Now diagrams for this bear can be found in “Origami Sequence,” which is Quentin’s book, and includes many beautiful, but also very challenging designs, including this grizzly bear. I think there are 21 different designs, for example, including the beautiful Clydesdale horse on the cover. Now because these models are quite challenging, I also suggest that if you were to fold along, you should be quite confident with somewhat more advanced models. This one is definitely on the complex side. Quentin also gives suggestions on what kind of paper to use. This one was folded from Japanese foil, which is this kind of paper very thin, with a foil component. It was folded from a square with a side length of 35 centimeters or 13 and three-quarters of an inch. and the height then works out to be about 12 centimeters or 4 and one-half inches. and it’s going to be wide, about 8 centimeters , or 3 inches. and the depth is going to be about 4 centimeters or 1 and one-half inches. Now Quentin says it’s best to fold this from foil or wet folding. Wet folding is even better; he wet folds most of his stuff I think. And wet folding is very difficult for a video, and foil isn’t much better because it reflects, but it serves better, so I’m going to use foil in this video and hope that the reflections won’t bother you too much, because I’ll be working with the white side mostly. to produce a white bear. Now Quentin also gives size suggestions, so the suggestion is 50 centimeters by 50 centimeters. These are 35 centimeters, so it’s quite a bit smaller. But this is the biggest size I could capture with my camera and it will be hard to do some of the details, but I think we’ll just try to go along with it. I hope it will work out. So having said all that, I think we should get started for as you will see by the length of the video, it’s quite a long project. We’re going to start with the colored side up, which in this case it’s actually white, because the foil is quite distracting. I’m hoping it’s not going to be too distracting in this video. As you can see, the model is almost completely colored. You might have like these slight layers opening where you can see a little bit of the other side, but almost nothing. So, just white is the colored side up this time around. I’m going to start by folding diagonally in half and especially when working with foil, I’d have to say I prefer slightly flattening creases and then taking a bone folder. Then unfold, and bring one edge to the crease we just created to make a pinch mark. That’s the shorter side; that’s the longer side. The longer side we’re going to divide in half with another pinch. And then we’re going to make a diagonal between this corner down here and the pinch mark, to just mark a reference point on the diagonal. And there we go. Now we’re going to make a horizontal crease through that reference point. And same thing on this side. Now you want to have another section that wide, so I’m just going to mark where I have to fold. I’m going to go with the diagonal as a pinch but you could do it on the side too. There we go. Unfold, and then use that reference. And, same on the other side. Now we need to divide these sections into halves. So I’m going to take this edge by edge and on this one you’re going to crease through the whole way, and on that one, there’s one section where you’ve got the diagonals and you’re going to actually skip. We don’t need the crease on there and it’s just going to be distracting. And same thing on the other side. Next we’re going to work on this large square, aligning this crease with that crease to make an angle bisector. And then same thing on the other side. So I’m first capturing the reference point and then aligning those creases. Always have to be careful with foil because it takes those creases very quickly. And on the other side. Then we’re going to rotate this so that we have these smaller squares here. There’s a small one, a small one and a big one. Between the two small squares is the reference for the next diagonal fold. And unfold. Now we can flip the paper over, and fold a preliminary base right on those creases. There we go. Then we’re going to make a crease right through the reference of the small square. And now we have to make an open sink. We actually need to unfold this again to collapse that open sink. So some of these folds are quite more complicated with foil than they are with other paper. But later on using foil it will really, really pay off. Next we’re going to focus on this section, so I’m just going to zoom in a little. So now we’re first going to take the edge and fold in half to the reference point right here. And then fold that section in half. And then the other one. And then all of these, except for the top one. And, of course, we do the same on the other side. Then we’re going to collapse all of these in closed sinks, so we always want this section to stay fixed so we’re going to have the mountain, valley, mountain, valley, mountain, valley to collapse all of this inside. So you can see we’re kind of fixing that to start pushing in … That’s the first … and then going on to the next one … and the final one. Same thing on this side. Now with that done, we can zoom out again. Now we’re going to mountain fold along this crease right here. Be careful to not have the paper drift. And then we’re going to take this right here, fold it in half along the existing crease, and then we’re going to make a swivel fold – this point right here is the reference – and we’re going to fold along that small valley fold right here, to align this edge with the center. So let’s see, just opening this up, then making that valley fold pop up a bit more, (actually going to take my bone folder to get that point to be quite nice and precise) There we go. And then this crease right here will align with that crease right there and here you can see there’s a diagonal crease, that’s what you created here. I’m happy with that and committing, and right here, also want to flatten the model. And then we’re going to fold this back. And the same thing on the other side. First, mountain fold, and then flip this over and then align that crease with the diagonal while folding along this valley fold. Right here you can see I’m really going along that existing crease, not creating a new one. Straightening everything out in the inside, and then making a sharp crease, and again, opening. There we go. We’re going to flip the model over, make a crease between these points right here, and then making a crease right through that point in a 90-degree angle. Then we’re going to fold the angle bisector on this section and put it through to the end of the layer ensuring the paper doesn’t drift. And same thing on the other side. Now we’ve got these folds right here, and we’re going to make a mountain fold and a valley fold making a reverse fold, which means that in this case, actually, the model will not lie flat for a fourth time. So we’re going inside, reverse fold, once, trying to get that point nice and precise, and then another reverse fold back out. Kind of like half an open sink. So here you can see the model is now 3D. We’re going to do the same thing on the other side. There we go. And we’re actually going to take this one section now that it’s prepared, and flip it over – like that, so that we can flatten the model again. So now it’s not 3D anymore. But we’ve kind of prepared that collapse on the other side. Now we’re going to flip over the model, – let’s make this symmetrical – and now we’re going to inside reverse fold along this crease right here, so I’m folding inside, and there are no creases here yet, so let’s worry about that in a second. First, ensuring this is collapsed on that side, There we go. And on the other side, you can see that we kind of folded all of these sections inside and out, and then there’s this larger section, and we’re going to hit exactly the end of that larger section so that you have kind of, the diagonal here I’ll show it to you in a second. So here you can see, we’re hitting exactly that point, and then you have a diagonal crease going here so that you have here what kind of looks like a bird base and flattening this out. I’m again going to use my bone folder because these complex models are much easier to fold if you work very precisely, and with foil I think it’s easier to get straight creases when you actually use a bone folder rather than just your hand. So on the other side, we’re again going to fold this inside. There we go, and we’re going to hit that reference point here again. And straightening it out, So, close-up view, you open it, you have this diagonal crease you’ve got that section and then a diagonal which again forms the small bird base. Next, we’re going to work on the top section. First, we’re going to take all of these layers including, kind of, that bird base stuff, and fold it down as far as it goes. I’m just going to fold on this section and not up here. Same thing on the other side. And then we can lower them both, and that makes this section open up a little. So now we’re going to squash fold this, and we’re going to go along existing creases. We’ve got these long valley folds right here, then we’ve got mountain folds next to it, and then the rest just goes along the same areas. You’ve got some paper sticking out right here; let’s not worry about it. It’s just in the way, but whatever – we’ll get it folded in a second, so that’s the first set collapsed, and then we’ve got the second set, there you go – and then the third set. So now you have that square on the top, and down here, I’m just going to check that all of this works out nicely. And then flatten it quite naturally. Actually, you can go behind this which gives one a little more peace of mind with not seeing that all the way. Just need to make it a little more precise because you can see there’s a slight gap here and I’m not liking it. It happens. But as long as you capture it right away, you can fix those imprecisions. Okay, that’s a bit better. Now we’re going to work on that top square. We’re first going to take the top layer and fold it in half. Unfold, and then bring each of the corners to the center. Let’s first do this one, and the third one, and unfold. And then we’re going to take the top layer, go along that valley fold here, and then bring in the sides along the creases we created. and we’ll form new diagonal creases up here which will match up with the other ones naturally. Then we’ve got this flap, and we can squash it. Then fold one flap to the side, and then push this up, – I want to flatten that crease here – So I’m kind of opening this up a little bit to help with that. And the goal is to get that kind of a small diamond, like a square, on its tip. And to flatten that, I’m first going to push this flat, and then we’re going to take this section down here and fold it up. Just checking that this is all nice and precise. There we go. And — oops — then we’re going to fold this down in a horizontal crease, a 90-degree angle. And to do that, we have to fold this in, in kind of a petal fold. It’s going to be not quite in this point but kind of a little farther up, right at this point, but if you fold the petal fold then you know how far you can fold. Just as far as you can go. Just have to be careful. I have a small rip in that paper there but I think it won’t be an issue. Again, getting it precise. So, that’s this side done. And now we’re going to obviously repeat on the other side, so for that we’re just folding down this tip and then we can kind of bring it to the center again so that it’s symmetrical. And then do the same steps on the other side. Fold over, and then make a valley fold here, open up the crease a little, to enable this to fold just as we want. Straighten it out, and then … fold that up again, and fold it down. I did the inside reverse fold for that kind of petal fold a bit earlier this time. And then fold the tip down and bring it to the center. So both now kind of look the same. WIth foil it’s very thin, which is one of the big advantages. Now we’re going to concentrate on that small square up here. We’re folding the ears now, so we’re first going to fold this top layer to the back, but I’m going to prepare it with a valley fold and bring the tip to the center. and then opening and folding behind. Now, here, these are basically the ears, this is going to be the face. And we’re going to take these sections and squash fold them. So we’re first going to valley fold up, and then open up the layers, kind of on the top layer right there, rather than in the back, and then squash fold, symmetrically. And same thing on the other side. Just going to valley fold up, and then open the layer to squash fold it symmetrically. And then we’re going to take that top layer and fold in, kind of for the nose. There we go. No real reference point here. I folded in about as much as these small squash folds. We’ll next work on the forearms, so this section of paper I’m just going to fold underneath these two flaps which are the forearms. And we’re now going to fold them out kind of in a valley fold that goes right through that point right here, kind of that section. Aligning edge with edge. Do the other side. There you go. Now we again have to do some things on one side and on the other. So let’s concentrate on this side only. First we’re going to fold in half through all layers — there’s quite a bunch. Then we’re going to unfold, close both on the lower layer. So you can see here they’re together, and you need to separate them a little bit to just close sink the lower layer. So kind of going in there and opening it a little bit. And I like to push on this point to kind of reverse it. It’s going to be a bit messy in the beginning, but once you straighten it out, it’s okay. Going along the existing crease, and trying to show this from the inside, but probably you get the point. You know, it’s a complicated fold, so you probably can deal with all of the well, not simple procedures, but kind of these basic procedures of mountain folds, valley folds, and open sinks, closed sinks, which is also why I’m not really explaining them in detail. So this looks relatively clean now, at least as clean as you’ve flattened it. Just going to check that I’m going along the right crease here and then pushing it closed. Now you can see that we’ve flattened it; this looks pretty accurate. Now we’re going to close slink the top layer, and we didn’t do them at the same time because this actually forced us to separate the layers. So again, pressing on the point, making it quite accurate, looking at it from the other side to clean up the mess, let’s have a look what this looks like … I’m not quite happy here yet There we go. I think we might have to push this in a little more … to get all of these points nice and accurate, and pushing it flat. And again, you can see this looks quite nice now. Now we’re going to make an inside reverse fold between this point and that point right there. No precreasing this because I actually think it’s easier not to. Capturing those two reference points, folding back, and then just ensuring that this point turns out nice too. Then we fold back in an inside reverse fold. This is in preparation for the claws. We’re going to be folding quite a bunch of them, and, of course, again. There we go. And now we’re going to be forming three more of these and it’s basically the same procedure, you’ll see that you kind of have this section down here, and you’re just going to keep it unfolded. It’s going to make it a little harder, but if you use a tool you can go in there to kind of get nice precise inside reverse folds. In the end, you know, no one’s going to look at the inside of the model. If you get it relatively precise, it’s going to be maybe a little flatter, and give you a bit more peace of mind. I think on this section, you’re not doing any further work, so if it’s not quite as precise, it’s not going to hinder you in folding the later steps which is always the one criteria in where you really have to be careful to be precise which is why the folds in the beginning need to be quite precise when you’re folding a complex model whereas in the end, you don’t have to be quite as strict anymore. Which is also sometimes a bit harder because things might get small or thick or whatever. Then this lower section right here, we’re just going to inside reverse fold, I’m going kind of in the center or something, it doesn’t matter too much … because of some magic – and this is why I really love this design – it has a really beautiful folding sequence. Now once we’ve got that reverse folded, we’re going to take the pocket right here and we’re going to take one layer and that’s two, that’s one layer and pull it out. and this is why I love this design so much because of these kind of small details. So, we’ve kind of squashed this, and now we’re folding it down and that makes all of that messy stuff disappear – which I like. Now you can actually separate out the claws but I’m going to keep it as this and leave it as a final shaping. So now we have to do the same steps on the other side. First, we’re folding in half, then close sinking the back and then the front, so again, for the back you have to open this a little pushing on the point to bring it to the other side. Still looking quite messy, but don’t worry about it. By ensuring that you go along the existing creases, we can get it nice and precise so we always know where we need to go. There we go. Look at it from this side – looks about right. And flatten. And then same thing on the front. Next we’re doing the inside reverse folds to form the claws. And finally, we’re then going to take just one layer, pull it out, flatten it, and then fold it down to hide all of that paper. And I just remembered, I forgot to inside reverse fold this section right here. So let’s do that before …there we go. And then we can fold this down again. And again, I’ll leave the separating of the claws to the end. Now we’re going to fold this flap and we’re actually going to fold the model in half right along there, and now we’re going to work on these claws down here. Again, zooming in on that section. We’re first going to – you can see all of these small zig-zag folds which we prepared in the beginning – first going to fold diagonally on one of those small ones, kind of as far as it goes. Just going to turn this around because I think it’s a bit easier to not have the layers separate if I can hold them like that. So that looks about right. And inside reverse fold, and also do an inside reverse fold for the second one. Again, precreasing here because it gets quite small. If you’re using larger paper then it’s not quite as small, but I’m hoping that with this zoomed-in view you can still see what I’m doing. So that’s two inside reverse folds folded and now we’re doing an elias stretch. I guess Neal Elias was the first to do this. So you have these here and basically you’re just stretching these two apart, making a new crease here, and then we want to flatten this. So we’re going to push this, push that, and then we kind of have this section here of foil appearing and flatten that. Obviously we don’t want that showing, so we’re going to fold it inside. So we’re first going to flatten it out again and then do a closed sink on this section. Ah, it’s tiny … and you know, if you don’t do a closed sink probably no one’s going to notice. But it locks it in place a bit better. There we go. So now we’ve hidden the silvery paper right here but there’s some right here too. You want to get rid of that, so we’re going to inside reverse fold that, which is kind of on this back layer. And there’s no real exact reference – just trying to hide that silver paper. So if you can see, this is kind of folded in a little bit – and just straightening this out then. Looking at it from the back maybe you can see it better. So that paper is now kind of hidden inside a little bit so that it’s not visible anymore. Now we’re going to do small inside reverse folds on all of these small claw sections. There’re one, two, three, four … right here. That’s one, two, three, four. Small folds; I think I’m actually going to precrease them. The first one … and so on. There we go. Now for the extra detail – and it will be a bit hard at this size – we’re actually going to crimp fold all of these claws, kind of having a mountain fold and then a valley fold, to give it nicer shape. So I’ll try to demonstrate this. I actually prefer kind of folding this open, and then we’ve got the mountain fold for the crimp, and – can you see here? It’s completely folded down, and then you bring it out again. So that’s a very small fold, but I hope you kind of see what I’m doing. And then press flat. Can you see that? And you do that will all of the claws. The next one … folding it completely down, and then bringing it up again. I’m aligning these so that they’re not crooked. The first one you can do, kind of, whatever you feel like, and the other ones, at least I like to kind of just do symmetrically. … and the last one. So now you’ve got these claws formed. Now, of course, you have to do the same steps on the other side. I’m going to start with the small inside reverse fold on the first layer, and the second layer, and then the elias stretch. Then fold it out by flattening and folding over. A little less – it doesn’t matter too much. That looks about right. This is just like a minor shaping. And then we’re folding it inside again in a closed sink. Kind of squishing that over – that’s the closed sink part – and slightly folding the body here. There we go. Then we again want to hide this silver paper in an inside reverse fold. There we go. Kind of get this as much as on the other side and then it’s hidden again. And then we can again do all of these small inside reverse folds, and the crimps. And then the claws are done. Now we’re going to form the body. For this we’re first going to fold in a section right here on the top layer. This is kind of where you get the elias stretch fold. Just going to fold that behind a little. I’m actually using another reference point where these folds stop, but you don’t have to. Just checking that it’s quite symmetrical. And then you can see you’ve got this ugly corner here, and we’re going to fold that behind a little too. Maybe even a little more here. And same on the other side. This is really just visual effect so it doesn’t really matter how much you fold – it’s up to your taste. Now here’s the important fold of actually making the body 3D or make it stand, because right now, you know, this isn’t the posture of a bear. And we’re going to make a crimp right along this crease right here, this layer. And then a mountain fold like that, and they have to hit somewhere kind of not on the edge but before so that it actually turns 3D. So I’m first going to precrease here, not going quite to the outside, and then I’m going to fit this paper over, kind of bending it up to where I creased. And here too. And pushing this inside to somewhat kind of automatically make that mountain fold pop up here. We don’t want it too much, I guess this crease will determine whether the weight is distributed nicely enough. This still seems a bit too much to me so I’m going in a little more and then I’m pushing this in. At this point, I’m just going to commit to that angle. Just wanting to straighten that out here … there’s like a little bump and I don’t like it. And now let’s see whether I’m happy with that angle. There we go. I know it looks unnatural right now, but give it a minute. Just straightening this out, kind of pushing all the layers together inside. Hard to see but when you’re folding it yourself you will want to do the same thing. Just make all these layers come together. There we go. And here too. Kind of rounding this a little bit. There we go, that looks about right. Okay, now – if you look at the head, it’s going to the back a lot and the bear actually has to look to the front. So we’re going to take as a reference first this layer of the arm. There’s going to be a mountain fold there, and then a valley fold to bring the head forward. So, just doing this on one layer first, then on the other side, and then we have to check how far in we want to move this. I’m going to go with right about there. And you can see this is how much I folded in. Can you see that? Actually I went with a right angle here pretty much, but it doesn’t have to be a right angle. Now we can look at this head and I just saw that this unfolded a little, doesn’t matter – there we go. So on the head, it’s a lot of folding to your tastes. But let’s start with a crimp fold, which if you take, like, this diagonal here we’re going to start the crease at this point and then we’re going to make a mountain, and a valley. If this is your reference, I think the mountain will be on a slight angle, and then the valley on a slightly bigger angle. So let’s try and do that. It’s no exact reference, as I said, you just go with what you feel like. So those are the mountains, and then you want to do the valleys and it’s just a slightly bigger angle because you don’t want this too much – unless you feel like that, then go ahead. Okay, there we go. And then you’ve got this crimped and that means you can fold inside a little section by kind of making a small swivel fold or whatever – like you could call it, a small inside reverse here and then fold behind. My fingers are going to be in the way, but I hope you kind of get my meaning. It’s just shaping – do whatever you like. Same thing on the other side. Let’s see whether I can manage this better … Attempt to make this small inside reverse fold, and then push the paper inside. Although it looks quite thin, it’s a lot of layers of paper. Japanese foil folds flat extremely well, which helps with this model a lot. So there we go. So we’ve got this look and here, actually I messed up a little so I’m fixing it. Trying again, because a crease line is in there that I didn’t want appearing. There we go. Now you might be wondering about this section right here. And just pull it down because it forms a beautiful mouth. Those are the details I love about this model. Give it shape a little – there we go. Now let’s see – what else? This corner right here is looking very ugly. So let’s just get rid of it. It doesn’t look very bearlike to have that kind of chunk and obviously the same thing here. I’ve got quite a lot of paper drift here, unfortunately. I’m just going to “cheat” by taking this bottom layer and folding it in a little bit. It’s an imprecision, but sometimes you can get away with hiding that kind of imprecision so that the silver doesn’t show. And on the other side it’s much better, actually. So I’m just folding that behind to try and get a nicer shape for the head. Maybe like that. And then we maybe want to form eyes here, by pushing in the paper a little. Maybe even a little more … And the same on the other side – you can do whatever you like, really. Shaping is always shaping. I’m not going to ponder on this too much – you can spend lots of time doing beautiful shaping and I’m not going to do so in this video. So then you also want to have your ears, they’re partly silver, but I’m going to push this open so that there’s going to be a small valley fold here, and you’ll kind of squash the sides a little bit. Can you see that? I’m squashing the sides a little bit. And then the tip is not very bearlike; I have quite roundish ears. I’m going to fold that behind. Actually going to try and reverse this paper a little bit so that it’s white on the front. Can you see that? Kind of going and flipping it to the back so that we have a little less white showing. And then we don’t really want to flatten this; we actually want to have kind of this 3D feel for the ears. And same thing on the other side. Now let’s see – we’ve got a head, we’ve kind of formed the eyes a little (and you can do more of it) I’m going to zoom out a little to show the full bear again. Here now you can see whether you want to adjust the posture. Actually I think I might have overdone a little here. I’m not going to fold in quite as much. And then – let’s see – let’s just work on the tail. We’re going to have to fold in quite a bit of paper here. We want to have the legs maybe up to here. You can see this small triangle. I’m going to fold that in, maybe – let’s see – I think it’s easier to show it like this. Giving it a nice behind, maybe like that. So that’s a slight precrease. So then we’re going to inside reverse fold that. You want it to have nice strong hind legs, right? Like that. Now again, check the posture here. I’m pushing this out from the inside, because it actually locks that crimp a little more. I haven’t done the tail yet, so it might have been a bit premature, actually. For the tail, you just want to ‘suggest’ it a little here by pushing this inside, pushing it inside there, Again, this is shaping; I’m not going to try and be perfect here in this video. But you get the gist, I hope. Now the head (I actually forgot!) It’s actually looking to the top – and you obviously want the bear to kind of look to the front. So for that we’re going another crimp fold, we’re going to have mountains kind of hidden behind the head, and then we fold it down to an angle that we think is about right. I think I’ll go with something like that. Ensuring that the mountain fold won’t be visible. Not really keen on folding this flat because I want to make it 3D in any case. Oh, I actually think I got quite a nice face considering I haven’t done too much shaping. I’m not happy with the mouth yet. I think I want to open it a little bit more. Maybe like that. And I’m also going to open the neck a little. Make it a little bit more 3D. Wet folding and foil both are kind of strong in shaping things. Which is quite good. You don’t want it to be so slender here. It’s a bear after all! And then maybe round it a bit here, there and – you know, whatever – Try and get that bear to look exactly as you want. Pushing that back together again to fix this. Pushing that a bit to the inside. It’s not a fat bear, it’s like a strong, muscular bear. You’ve got the claws, and you can spread them out to kind of make the bear – I don’t know – as you can see here – kind of adjust it a little bit to see that it does have claws. So I’m bending this in a little bit, because I think it makes it easier to not separate it out too much. And I’d want to adjust that in any case. And then spread these claws out. Kind of want to angle them a little differently so that they actually show. We should have five of them. And you can kind of do small crimps on there to give that a nice feel. Here you can see – one, two, three, four, five – very nicely. And this makes it, I guess, very obvious here: one, two, three, four, five. I’m actually going to stick with that. See that? Maybe I want to do it as obvious on this one too. I think I didn’t go quite far enough with these here. Anyway, you can spend lots of time in kind of getting the shaping right. But here we are – that’s the bear. Let’s see whether it stands. I didn’t have to adjust anything. And it just stands like that. And here’s for comparison the other one. I spent a little more time shaping it. That’s, you know, pretty similar. And I hope you enjoyed this video on the “Grizzly Bear” by Quentin Trollip in his book “Origami Sequence.” You can buy it on origami-shop.com, just like the paper I used, which is Japanese foil, 35 centimeters. I’ll add links so that it’s easier for you. I hope you enjoyed this video of the grizzly bear. Quite a complex model. And if you succeeded in folding it, do let me know by sharing a picture. It’d be awesome to see how your effort turned out. Happy Folding, and have a great time. Bye-bye!

68 thoughts on “Origami Instructions: Grizzly Bear (Quentin Trollip)

  1. Thank-You Sara for another Awesome and Amazing and also Brilliant ( Origami Video Tutorial )

    This is much and Greatly Appreciated.

    🙂

  2. All the models looks so amazing! Complexity and aesthetic value goes hand in hand though, usually, unless it's like a abstract shape or something.

  3. I don't know any books good for intermediate level, but Jo Nakashima created some very cute and cool animals and stuff that I believe are intermediate! You could look him up here! The elephant, giraffe, owl, bride, and groom I believe are intermediate.

  4. Sorry for that, foil is indeed quite noisy. Working with kami wouldn't have been an option for this model, though, and when wet-folding you have to work quickly – which isn't really a good idea when you're trying to show how to do the folds. 😉

  5. Wish granted! I'll upload another video next weekend. Check happyfolding(dot)c o m for a picture of the model I'll be presenting: "Love with strings attached" by Francis Ow. 🙂

  6. This is really hard to say, because everyone has a different definition of what's intermediate level. Also, the book you choose heavily depends on what kind of folds you enjoy (e.g. modular, geometric, animals, objects, tessellations, flowers, etc). A book that has a nice mix, and which was actually the first book I bought myself is "Origami for the Connoisseur" by Kasahara and Takahama.

  7. Origami Essence is a good book for you it has many intermediate level models and also some harder ones when you're ready. You can get it on origami-shop. Also if you're getting it don't forget to buy foil, tant and kami of various sizes to make your models. Hope it helped 🙂

  8. I've just finished folding it. It's a really fun model: it's not to hard yet the shapping is chalenging. I modified the claws on the forelegs so that they look "more aggressive". Hopefully I'll try to make a video to show it off 🙂

  9. Once again awesome video tutorial 🙂 what happened to the giveaway? Where the winners announced already?

  10. hi Sara, excellent vid! Thanks for taking time off your PhD to film this … 1hr+! appreciate your work and passion for this. been looking for awesome 3D models to work on. thanks for the tip on books to get.

  11. I abosolutely love your videos. keep doing what you're doing now, and I will keep on following your instructions. they are as clear as glass

  12. sorry Sara, I cannot fold the mountain and valley fold in 11:38
    Can you make a clear video on that part? thank you
    FANS from Hong Kong

  13. Hi,Sara..
    I like your videos very much..
    I just want to know that which camera did you use for taking vids..
    And please write the cost of that camera..
    I want to buy that..
    Thats Why..
    And please check-out my channel sara..
    Its nice..
    And please tell Me something which I can do on my channel..
    Please Sara..

  14. When there is a step with making folds inside and outside about 12:28, what happend with thins fold which was already inside? because You didn't explain it or show it. And next folds You did out of the view and quicker.

  15. you could do a video diagram of the book "origami sequence" author Quentin Trollip?? The origami is called crucifix page 42. I wanted so much to make this origami, but I can not evolve in the diagrams. Friendly hug. PS: Excuse my English because I used the google translator to write this.

  16. I'm considering buying an origami book, maybe this one. What do you recommend for an advanced folder? I know I'm not the best at origami though.

  17. This was #myfirst video of yours.I did however folded a lot of your tutorials,but I am more into complex models.I remember I was so proud back then for succeeding in this,and it turned out great.Because this was time when I started origami not long ago,so finishing a model of this complexity was an achievement for me lol (today this is actually a simple model,comparing to what Im foldnig today) PS.From all the giveaway paper Id need just those Extra thin lol

  18. Hey Sara! Ich würde mich freuen wenn von diesem Video ein Remake machst, da man an manchen stellen nicht richtig sehen kann was man Falten muss…
    #remakeplease

  19. For a model that has lots of closed sinks u shouldnyt really use foil paper coz it reflects all the time… ANYWAYS i made it with 30cm paper which worked out fine, wasnt too hard. The closed sinks were actually FUN lol.

  20. I can't figure out what you do at 15:00, either the paper is out of view or your hands keep distracting! And you even fast forwarded some folds after that!!! Started out eagerly but totally stuck at this part:(

  21. hats off to you to have shown each step so clearly !!!
    i just folded a beautiful intricate model with chart paper (55*55 cm)
    a nice intermediate origami
    pls do upload similar origamis

  22. in the past I did request to make dollar bill elephant like origami artist KEN00MASTER. Again requesting to make the same.

  23. Fabulous model of the origami grizzly bear. Can you make more tutorials of origami models designed by quentin trollip in books like origami sequence or origami works of quentin trollip.

  24. Next tutorial can you make a tutorial of the origami blue and yellow macaw designed by quentin trollip next.

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