Origami “Double Star Flexicube” by David Brill (Part 1 of 3)

Origami “Double Star Flexicube” by David Brill (Part 1 of 3)


In this video, I’m going to show you how to fold the Double Star Flexicube by David Brill. This is the star shape, and you can just flex it around as you like! For this, we will need 32 sheets of A-sized paper: That’s 8 for hinges for connecting modules, 12 for right-hand units, and 12 for left-hand units. First, we need to fold 12 right-hand units. They have a pocket on the left side, and a flap to insert into a different pocket on the right-hand side. For this, we’re going to take one of our sheets of paper, and bring the long edges together to create a horizontal crease. And make a sharp crease. Unfold again and turn the paper. Now, bring the two short edges together. And make a crease. Turn the model around by 180 degrees. Now, take one layer of paper and bring it to the edge you just created. And make a sharp crease. Unfold the model. And turn it back 180 degrees. And now, for the right-hand unit, fold the right (side) to the left (side). Next, you have to connect the lower left corner with the central right corner in a crease. During this step, be careful that the paper doesn’t drift, so that these two layers of paper always stay together nicely. So if the corners align, it’s good. If the corners don’t align, then you have paper drift happening. And this might easily happen while you’re doing a diagonal fold, so be careful to have those two layers fixed together. Start a nice, neat crease in the lower corner and then push the upper part of the model so that it gets a nice, straight crease. And make a nice crease. Unfold. And then connect the other two corners, too. Again, trying to prevent paper drift. And a nice, sharp crease. Unfold again. Then, take the model up. With your right hand, hold it in the top, and with your left hand, open it up, put your index finger inside the model and your thumb right on that crease. And then push with the thumb to open the model, and close it up again in a simple, inside-reverse fold. Like so. Then, take the top layer, and open it up Like so. And you have a horizontal crease right here, which was the third fold you created. And you take this lower edge and fold it to the center of the model along this crease. So just take the top layer of paper, and push it up. Like so. The model doesn’t lie flat. So now, take this point that’s just popping out here, and push it to the left. And then, this looks somewhat symmetrical. If you look closely, on one side, there’s a hidden flap that’s on the left, and on the right, there is no such flap. On the right, you have these creases, and we’re going to inside-reverse fold them just by pushing on this lower edge. Like so. And then closing up again. So now, you have a pocket here and a flap to insert into a different pocket. Now, let’s finish this model. If you close this up, you can see this crease, and we want to align it with that edge. So open up the model just a bit, put in your index finger, and make a mountain fold, taking your middle finger on the top and pushing, like so. And this mountain fold, once it’s established, just align it. Like so. And be careful that you’re not creating any crease inside that don’t exist yet. Once you’ve got it aligned, make a sharp crease here. Then, put the model on the table and extend the crease to the center of the model — a nice, rough crease. Finally, we want to create a crease right along where there is an extra layer of paper. Again, taking care not to have the paper drifting, because there’s two layers of paper. Crease up, and make a sharp crease. And then, you have a module done. Next, we have to fold 12 left-hand units. So there’s a pocket on the right and a flap on the left. Again, take a sheet of paper. Fold edge to edge, and make a sharp crease. Unfold. Bring the short edges together, and make a sharp crease. Turn the model around. Just bring one layer of paper up to the crease you just created. Make a sharp crease. Unfold. This is as before. Now this time, you don’t fold in this direction, but you take the left (side) of the model, and fold it over. Now again, you make two diagonal creases, avoiding paper drift. Nice and sharp. Then, you make your inside-reverse fold, from the left to the right. Then, you open one layer of paper from the left, bring up along this crease, just one layer of paper. And make it symmetrical by pushing on the corner. And you can see, the hidden flap is now on the right. And on the left, inside-reverse fold. And then again, on the left, bring this edge to align with that edge. So everything you’re doing is basically a mirror image to the right-hand module. Extend the crease to the middle. And, the final crease. Again, avoiding paper drift. And a nice, sharp crease. And then you have a left-hand unit, rather than a right-hand unit.

100 thoughts on “Origami “Double Star Flexicube” by David Brill (Part 1 of 3)

  1. @levinchau123 Yes, you can. As long as you cut it into 4 pieces by halving each side length once. 🙂

  2. @CirciSurfMusic No, you cannot start with a square. The ratio needs to be about 1 by 1.414, so for example use 3 inch by 4.25 inch paper.

  3. @mizakzee No, that ratio doesn't work. The ratio needs to be about 1 by 1.414, so use 3 inch by 4.25 inch paper instead.

  4. @wong2008a This model works with different kinds of paper but I prefer using slightly heavier paper for the units, and thinner paper for the hinges. I've folded this model using the same, thin paper for both and that worked out ok, too.

  5. Can I use bigger paper that is still 1: root 2 ratio? I want to make a large one D:
    Will it be hard to put it together?

  6. @fluffybananacake Yes, as long as the ratio is the same, you can use larger paper. If you use much larger paper, you will probably also have to use heavier paper.

  7. @TheComedyluvr Your tip only works for A4 paper. so whether it works depends on where you live. I t won't work in the US and Canada, where they use letter-sized printer paper, rather than A4.

  8. @darkangel78917 In the US and Canada copy paper will have letter format. Everywhere else it has A4 size.

  9. @darkangel78917 Everything has a weight. Different paper has a different weight. It's measured in grams per square meter, for example, to standardize it.

  10. @cookiemonster123254 Check the video description for links on how to get A-sized paper. As for a video, I'll think about it.

  11. very nice tutorial but the black background makes me a little sleppy i actually fell asleppe *-* maybe it's just me THANKS!

  12. @darkdesi1234 It's a silver rectangle, so the ratio is 1 by square root of 2. This is the same ratio as A4, A5, etc paper has.

  13. @55lalalalala55 The most difficult part of this model is assemblying the units. Still, I'd say it's a low intermediate piece.

  14. @rockonman11434 You need paper that has a ratio of 1 by square root of 2. So a square will not work.

  15. @gothica202 You can fold two and then place one on top of the other. You might have to connect the units slightly differently, though, to get a perfect match.

  16. @31808169 You can cut other paper to have the same aspect ratio. You can either measure, or use one of the techniques I linked to in the video description (silver rectangle from square, or letter).

  17. @31808169 I used thin card stock to fold the units. The paper already had the ratio of a silver rectangle (A4).

  18. @31808169 Any A-sized (1:sqrt(2) ratio) paper will do. I used A7 in this one.

  19. @viclovevivi Yes, but you'll end up with a really big model. I used A7 in this video to give you an idea of scale.

  20. A6 is still going to be somewhat big, but in my opinion a much better size than A4.

  21. I'm having a bit of trouble siding the triangular flap into the pocket. It slides in just fine, but I can't collapse it into the pyramid-ish shape

  22. The ratio of the paper you use should be 1 by square root of 2. So for example if your index card has a width of 2 inches, you need to cut it so that it's about 2.83 inches long.

  23. Yes, but if your printer paper is letter-sized (e.g. in the US) you will have to cut it to the right proportions.

  24. Hold the paper portrait and fold it horizontally in half. The two halves are a5 size. Then fold it vertically, making 4 a6 quarters. If you fold the two shorter edges to the center and cut on the creases, you will get 8 a7 sized pieces. So a7 is 1/8 of an a4 piece of paper. Did it help?

  25. Sara I did everything right but when I put the pieces together they have rounded sides can you tell me what I did wrong?

  26. I love this model but I loathe making it. I just finished making it and I made it one other time, years ago. It's not hard; it's just tedious and frustrating. sigh I wish there were some variation of it that were a bit easier, sturdier and more practical.

  27. I cut my 8 1/2 x 11 paper to 7 3/4 x 11.  Same aspect ratio as A4.  Worked very well.  What paper did you use?  Printing paper is flimsy for it.

  28. #remakeplease! I love this play-around model and just realized how amazingly your videos evolved from some years ago 🙂

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *