Odin Makes: The Infinity Gauntlet, from Avengers: Infinity War

Odin Makes: The Infinity Gauntlet, from Avengers: Infinity War


(popping) (upbeat music) Hello, I’m Odin, and today I’m gonna make
a very requested prop. It’s the Infinity Gauntlet
from Avengers: Infinity War. Thanos is a pretty big guy and the Infinity Gauntlet is huge! So I’m gonna scale mine back and actually make a
gauntlet that I can wear. I’m gonna start with a
pair of welding gloves. I only need the left one,
but they’re sold in pairs. What I want to make first is the cuff and the back of the hand. Then I’ll cover the fingers later. Using a foam ruler, I measured my wrist, and then about how big I wanted the back of the gauntlet to be, and I divided both of those sizes by four and drew up a paper pattern. I folded the pattern in half when I first drew it and cut it out, so all the pieces will be symmetrical and I don’t need to label anything. I cut out all four of the parts from 1/2-inch floor mat foam. I want the wrist portion of the cuff to be kinda form-fitting and not bulky, so I sanded the foam
down into a wedge shape to try and make that a little thinner than the 1/2-inch foam that I’m using. I used a heat gun and
a plastic punch ladle as a planishing tool to help shape the curves
into the flat foam. Then I used contact cement to
glue all four pieces together, painting the glue on each
side, letting it mostly dry, and then sticking it together. I suppose I could have divided
my measurements by three and cut out just three pieces,
but this is gonna be fine. The finished cuff is a little square, so I used my heat gun
to help relax the foam, which rounded it out a little bit more. It’s a good fit, and I make
some marks in the glove about where I want the
contact cement to go and where the seams need to line up so the cuff won’t be twisted
when I put it back on. Sticking them together
will be a challenge, since the glove needs
to slip through the cuff and the contact cement will
stick the first chance it gets, so I taped on small pieces of paper over the glue in the glove, which allowed me to position
the foam where I wanted it. Then I can remove the paper pieces and stick everything together. To start the plate that goes
on the back of the hand, I make some basic measurements, and then kinda look at
the shape that I want and freehand it onto some foam. Then cut out a funky piece
that can wrap around my hand and be open on the
knuckles and on the wrist. I shave down all the edges on this foam ’cause I want the center to be raised up to kinda bulk up the gauntlet, but I want the edges to look smaller than the foam that I’m using, and I want the foam to actually be thinner where it wraps around the palm of my hand. This is also glued on with contact cement, and I add some more contact cement to adhere the little areas
I missed the first time. (tool whirring) I use my Dremel to sand
down some of the rough edges and to carve out the notches
that are between each knuckle. There are five plates
that make up the wrist, and I eyeball the shapes I want on paper, and then I cut them out
of 3-millimeter foam. I also cut out the raised
trim for each piece, gluing them on as I go. There is one center piece, and two large wrist leaves
that wrap around the wrist, and then two smaller leaves
that sit over the bigger ones. I plan on gluing all these on
after everything is painted. I clean up all the edges with the Dremel, and then make the foam thinner where I wanna glue it
onto the welding glove. With all these parts cut
out, I can add the details that go on the center piece
with some 1-millimeter foam and then use the Dremel for
some decorative carving. There is quite a bit of decorative pieces on the back of the cuff and on the sides, which is good, ’cause that’ll
help hide all the seams. I measure what I want
and make a paper pattern, folding it again so when I
cut it out, it’s symmetrical. I re-use the pattern to
add the raised trim ridges and to make the feather-like decorations, which I will need six, two for the top and two for each side. In my reference photos, I can’t
see the bottom of the cuff, so I plan on leaving it blank. The trim pieces are so small, it’s easier to cut out the middle, glue on the bigger piece, and
then cut the edges to fit. But I can’t do that with
the second inner ridge, so I had to be careful attaching it, because if it bent funny and stuck wrong, I would tear it trying to remove it and I would need to cut a new one. I trace the whole piece onto the cuff so I know where to use contact
cement to glue them together. (tool whirring) I bevel the edges of the big piece. Now I probably should have done
this before it was glued on, because if I slip, I’m gonna
put a cut into the cuff. I cut out the six feather pieces, and glue the first two
to the back of the cuff, and the other pairs go right on the sides. I plan to place them where
they can help hide the seams. I start to etch the feather
ridges into the thin foam. The actual prop has a design of intricate knot work
on all of these parts, with the pattern weaving over itself. Now I realized I would just mess it up and it would look wrong, so I opted for more of feather look, with a series of parallel lines, which I still need to
copy to all six parts. Now it’s not detail accurate, but it looks much cleaner
than what my attempt at a stylized Celtic knot would have been. There are raised panel lines on each side, so I use Super Glue to
attach a leather cord. This cord was in the bead
aisle of the craft store and it glues on with
Super Glue pretty easily. I have an accelerant for Super Glue that makes it set up almost instantly, but you spray it on, and it’ll
actually soak into the foam, which will then mess up
the spray paint later, so I didn’t use it. I cut out the notch over the wrist and start to make the pieces
for the back of the hand. I’m gonna use large rhinestones
for the Infinity Gems, and I lay some out for spacing and to cut the knuckle
panels to the right size. The center gem is gonna be on it’s own multi-layered
decorative panel, and I etch some marks around
where the gem will be, and I use the largest rhinestone
that I could find for it. Now I could only find it in pink, so later I’m gonna paint it with transparent yellow Tamiya paint. And glue the panel onto
the back of the gauntlet. There is a secondary cuff that sticks out from the first one, so I cut a ring of 5-millimeter foam, and then I reinforced
the seam on the inside with some of that 1-millimeter foam and cement it into the larger cuff. The last foam piece I
need is the thumb plate. I want it raised off the glove so it can clear the back of the hand, so I sharpen the edges
of a piece of copper pipe and cut out some disks of
foam to use as a pedestal. Then the thumb plate is cut from layers of 5-millimeter craft foam, curled to shape, and stacked all together. So all the pieces that I
want to make out of foam, I’ve made out of foam. All I’m gonna do now is
take some puffy paint, and I’ll add the piping that
goes on the edges of the palm and the rivet heads that
go all over the gauntlet. Now to make the fingers themselves, what I want to do is cut up
some PVC pipe, not just rings, but actually make the scales
that’ll go on each finger. And then for the fingertip, I’ll heat up styrene plastic and use that. Before I start on the fingers, I want to spray paint the foam parts, so I cover all of the
exposed leather on the glove with some paper and painters tape, and then I can seal the foam with a few coats of black Plasti Dip. Once that dries, I spray everything with an antique brass color
to use as my base coat. And I’m really glad that I did this now, because this Rust-Oleum paint
took nearly two hours to dry! So while the paint’s
drying on the gauntlet, I’m gonna start to cut out the fingers. I’m gonna use schedule 80 PVC pipe for the actual round parts of the fingers, and then I can make the tips
using 1/16-inch styrene plastic that I can heat form to
fit around the glove. I could also use Worbla, but styrene is considerably cheaper. I made a paper pattern
for my basic finger shape and traced it a bunch of
times onto a PVC pipe, and I elongated one of
them to use for the thumb. I then cut them all out using a Dremel and a rotary cutter bit
that is normally used for milling machines. And it chews right through the
PVC and it makes a huge mess. With all the parts cut out,
I remove the fuzzy bits and sand down all the edges,
making the curves smoother. For the fingertips, I heat up pieces of 1/16-inch styrene
plastic with my heat gun until it’s really soft and melted. You can easily see when
that starts to happens. Then I place the heated plastic
over a piece of PVC pipe and pressed the wooden
handle of a file into it so I could get a finger shape. Now you don’t have to use a file. Any rounded object that doesn’t stick to the heated plastic will do. You can even use the fingertip
of the leather glove, but that’ll show all of the seams, and I liked the smoothness
of the wooden handle. I cut out more plastic than I needed, because it’s easier to handle
a bigger piece when it’s hot. Once it’s cooled, just
cut off the extra plastic and sand down the edges. (tool whining) I start with the thumb
ring and cut it to fit. This PVC pipe was heated and
stretched to fit over the thumb and it’s the only one
that was made like this. Then I heat the elongated plate and press it to fit my thumb. I actually plan to do this to all of the scales for each finger, heating up the pipe and
pressing it for a custom fit. The PVC heats up easily with a heat gun, and pressing them on allows
the pipe to lay over itself. Once all the finger shapes are made, I mark each piece so I know where it fits. I used the Dremel so I
could etch in the marks. That way I could still read them after everything is painted. I also scratch up the inside
where I want the glue to stick. Once these are painted, the glue will not adhere to
the smooth pipe very well, so making scratches will
allow the glue to grip better. I spray painted all of the finger parts with an antique gold spray
paint that dries much quicker, and I use 5-Minute Epoxy
to glue the fingertips on. Now I want to let this glue set up some before I add on more, but I can start to add a dark
wash to weather the gauntlet. I mix up some brown and
some black craft paint, water it down, and paint it into all the
corners of the gauntlet, and I wipe off the excess
with a paper towel. I glue on the next two
sets of finger scales and I give them a dark wash, and then I use contact cement
for the center wrist leaf. I picked up some gold Rub ‘n Buff paint to add highlights onto the gauntlet. Now I’ve never used this stuff before and I know that a little
bit goes a long way, and I start trying to rub
it on with a paper towel, but in the end, I was
just using my fingertips. My goal was to add a highlight of color where the gauntlet would rub on something, or to add highlights to a specific part. Now I need some more practice, but I like using Rub ‘n Buff paint. I glue on the last set of finger scales, and then I take some gold craft paint and paint all the rivet heads
I made with the puffy paint. I also use the dark wash to darken up the leather
on the back of the hand so it all looks kinda uniform. I give it a moment to dry,
and then I can glue on both sets of wrist leaves
and the thumb plate. Now all I have to do is glue
on the Infinity rhinestones, and I’m gonna do that with contact cement. I was happy to see that the contact cement did not hurt the chrome
back of the acrylic stones, and they all glued on very easily. Remember the pink stone from earlier? Here it is now that it has been painted with transparent yellow model paint. (upbeat electronic music) All the parts I used to make this project I picked up locally from craft stores and sheet plastic supply shops. I put a part list in the description. I’ll also add all of my
pattern pieces that I made, so you can download them
if you’d like to use them. And so here’s my human-sized
Infinity Gauntlet. I’m very happy with this. Now I could have made the
Infinity Stones light up and not just let them be rhinestones. I actually tried, and after drilling a couple
out and gluing LED behind it, it wasn’t that impressive and didn’t seem like it was
gonna be worth the effort, so I opted to get some sleep instead. Now I know that there
are many different ways that you could make an
articulated gauntlet, which is pretty much all
the Infinity Gauntlet is, but this is how Odin makes. I have a Patreon page where you can win props made right here in the show. October’s winner is Alexander Estrada, and he won Hellboy’s Samaritan gun. If you like the video or have ideas or something for me to make, please leave them in the comments below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture. So doesn’t that make this
Thanos’s left hand of doom?

100 thoughts on “Odin Makes: The Infinity Gauntlet, from Avengers: Infinity War

  1. Here they are! Just scanned, print them at 100% size. (not as clean as the other patterns, but I needed to get these out now!)
    A4 paper size https://imgur.com/a/BuLvN
    US Letter size https://imgur.com/a/l4I1s

  2. Please make Deadpool’s twin katanas! Aka, his golden girls; β€œBea” and β€œArthur” 😎

  3. Someone: I’m buying it online
    Thanos: I’m gonna hunt the stones down
    Odin: I’m gonna craft one

  4. the thing is i dont like the gauntlet every thing is accurate but the fingers are 3 parts and the stones are kinda rough texture great build though

  5. Me:A guy made a realistic infinity gauntlet
    Friend: Cool whats it made of
    Me: A welders glove, foam, and fake gems
    Friend: ._.

  6. πŸ˜‡πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ˜-😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😈😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😳😳😳😳😑😑😑😑😑😬😬😬😬😠😠😠😐😐😐πŸ˜₯πŸ˜₯πŸ˜₯πŸ˜§πŸ˜§πŸ˜―πŸ˜―πŸ˜―πŸ˜―πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ˜–πŸ˜–πŸ˜–πŸ˜–

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *