mini junk journal TUTORIAL | made from a vintage matchbox

mini junk journal TUTORIAL | made from a vintage matchbox

hello and G’day
today’s video is a mini junk journal tutorial made from a vintage matchbox
it’s got seven signatures, the pages are fully workable, you can see in between
the signatures I’ve used the really old vintage matchbox that’s made of timber
it’s actually plywood a very thin plywood if you don’t have a vintage
matchbox or you can’t get a hold of any you can get the pdf pattern here and
this is what it looks like so it turns out pretty good and it’s free you don’t
have to pay for it now this is what you need you don’t need a lot of supplies to
make this, tea dyed or coffee dyed paper, Kraft card I used the – 280 GSM some fabric, calico, cotton or gauze and you’ll need a needle and thread… and of course
you need a matchbox. so the first thing we’re going to do is cut up the matchbox
so the sides here this one’s all intact all of these sides now I’m going to use
a pair of the Tim Holtz scissors and I’m very carefully going to start very
slowly just little little crawly scissor cuts, up one side and I’m going to turn
it around and start on the other side and that’s because this plywood will
crack split up and it will break so you’ve got to go really slow and I find
that first cut is best to use the scissors and see how that plywood just
broke away from itself now when I open it here I’m not going to push it I’m
just kind of gently just pull it like this just go slow see how I’m not trying
to lay it flat to the table I’ve left it up a little bit I’m actually going to
leave it that and I’m gonna cut it while it’s
still sitting up so I’m gonna cut off the sides and I’m using I’ve swapped out
my scissors for this very sharp craft knife that’s at piece off and this is
the split piece I’m gonna cut that off so I’ve just left with my front piece so
it’s got a bit of a curve in it I ended up having to wet that and put a weight
on it to flatten it now this piece here I’ll do the same I’m gonna cut off the
flint side piece and then I’ll be just left with the back. don’t force
anything seriously this stuff will crack so now I’ve got my front my back and I’m
gonna use the other side of the matchbox that did not split these two pieces here
or just put away use it for something else even though if you only had one
side once you glue that split side down on a piece of card on the craft card it
would hold itself together now I’m going to glue these pieces onto the craft card
cover and see here I’m gonna put them right on the edge like this one here
because the border of the matchbox will be the border of the book now I’m going
to use one matchbox as the measurement to make my cover I’m going to leave a 1
millimeter gap between the back and the side and a 1 millimeter gap between the
side and the front and then I’m just going to cut that piece out
I use a square ruler it helps me to make sure everything’s nice and square so
I’ll glue down my back piece first now I’ll give you a warning make sure your
back piece is on the left of the color you don’t want to put your book together
the wrong way around it will turn out upside-down so make sure that is on the
left side don’t force anything just sit it there and push it down and just make
sure that’s flat or flush with the edge of the cover, any little bits of glue
you’ll notice I didn’t over glue it so don’t over glue and you won’t have much
cleanup. remember this is where you left that one millimeter gap
when you measured up to cut out your cover so leave a 1 millimeter gap and
that was for this score line I’ll use the edge of that see that blue bar there
I use the edge of that to rest my modeling tool on that and I start school
now I try and bend it over here if it doesn’t Bend easily I know I haven’t
scored it enough so I’ll put it back in and I this time I’m going to use a
smaller modeling tool the craft card is a bit heavy but I don’t want to push too
hard on it because it will crack so that has helped it now it but it bends freely
and that’s got a nice neat Bend now put the glue on the Flint area which is the
spine off-camera and that fits perfectly with that 1 millimeter gap in between
the back and the side which is the spine we’ll just make sure it’s square and it
is now I’m going to put another score line right beside the right hand side of
the spine which is to make a hinge for the front and use a smaller one again and just score down there
remember I’m leaning my tool on the side bar just to keep it straight fold it
over it bed easily and I’ll do a test fit perfect all right now I can glue
that on see how I haven’t got the glue all the way to the edge that will avoid
a mess and just push it on gently nothing forced take your time this sort
of project is the sort of project that you can’t rush gotta treat it gently square it all up while that glues still
a little little bit slippery so you can move it around and push it down and make
sure those edges perfectly aligned well that’s yeah that’s the cover made all I
do now is put them fold them over like that and make sure they match and leave
it to dry now we’ll go on and make the signatures which are the pages I’ve made
a pattern for the pages and you cut your pages using the outside line you need it
to be bigger than your cover just fold your paper in half then I will trim off the edges
and that will get rid of them fold lines you don’t want to be cutting out this
little piece of paper one sheet at a time and cut off the other fold line on
the other side and that will separate all of these folded sheets yeah make
another cut use these that along and cut it again you’ve got a bit of paper there
on the left-hand side that you can put aside to recycle nothing wasted now you
pick up three pieces there’s three pieces per signature fold that in half
and put it in your pile we need seven of those so three pieces
that’s three pages fold it in half and you need seven of them seven groups of
three if you’re not sure what a signature is I’ll put the video link
below on what is a page signature now we’ll go back to the template and we’re
going to use this inside line here that is what we’re going to trim this group
of signatures back to the reason we do this is so that they’re all totally even
I don’t normally clip together I’ve done it this way just to show you because the
clip stops the papers from laying flat so you need a flat clip so I’ve got the fold on the bottom end
and I’m just running my craft knife through a few layers at a time
don’t try and cut the whole lot in one go if it slips on you I’ve got to show
you another way to cut them it takes a little bit longer but because they’re so
small it is easier and it will still turn out pretty accurate so if they
start slipping around on you try this method here I’m just going to get one
and cut them out separately takes a little tiny bit longer just line up them
inside cut lines once you’ve cut extra bit off the first one you can use it as
a template you don’t have to measure each one so just cut through that one
lot and get rid of that excess so now the top and bottom of your pages will be
trimmed perfectly the same the same the top and the bottom will be nice and even
so using my first signature I’m now cutting the second one so I’ll put the
second one aside and use the top one again to cut all of them out so I’ll go
through and do that to all seven and then we’ve only got the width of the
book left to trim okay so top and bottom done and see how they’re all sort of you
know that they’re even top and bottom but on the edges now they’re all jaggedy
so now I’ll mark the width using this guideline here same again once I’ve cut
this first one off it’s much easier this time I’m going to cut a group of three so whatever you’re comfortable with you
know like if you want to try and cut through the whole lot of them just
beware because it’s a small group of pages they could slip all over the place
so you can come all together you can cut one at a time or you can cut a smaller
group of three together or two whatever suits your style of cutting so I’ll put
the bottom two aside and use the top one again as my template right now I’ve done
a test fit you’ll see me swap the match boxes during this tutorial because it’s
easier for me that way to show you how I’ve made up the vintage match box as
well as the faux match box so now we’ll get ready to sew the signatures this is
the pattern that you’ll be getting the pattern I just used isn’t marked but the
pattern you’ll be getting will have two green dots on it like this so once
you’ve got that that will be where you mark your holes in these signatures you
need to mark the holes in every signature so each one of these have a
hole marked in it so I’ve used my bookbinders needle to punch my holes and
I’ve also I’m going to use a polyester upholstery thread you don’t have to you
can use any thread you’ve got don’t use anything too bulky though because these
books are small so just open the signature up and put your pattern piece
in there line up the top and bottom inside line to your pages top and bottom
and poke through the hole it pokes through really easy you can use a pokey
tool but you don’t want a big fat one you only want something
narrow use the needle that you’re going to sew with it’s works best
so once you’ve poked that hole through I’ll show you a quicker way as we go so
first stitch in come back through the other side and back to the center cut it
off and tie a double knot now hold it down as best you can you
don’t want it too tight you don’t want it too loose so just tie that double
knot cut off the long bits and that’s the first one done do it again this time
I’ll clamp it I’ll use the pattern again to line it up and I’m going to hold it
up this time instead of laying it on the table and I’m going to punch the holes
in and sew it up that’s the only difference between the first one and
this one back through the back again you know it only takes five minutes to sew
seven of these signatures up it’s very quick now this time I’m showing you how to do
it without the clamp it depends on your experience through the first hole back
through the back into the center again and tie a knot now this time I’m doing
it with out the clamp and without the pattern I’m just eyeballing it and I’m
not even pre punching my hole I’m just stitching it straight in you don’t have
to be totally 100% accurate where you put your holes as long as you stitch it
together because each group of these pages being a signature are glued in
separate and you can’t tell if one’s one or two millimeters out and look they
look so cute and this is how they look when they’re sitting in the cover now
have a little look at these and I’m just going to use my pokey tool just to
spread them out a little bit this is how we need to have them look when we glue
them into the cover now I’ve got a little trick to show you how I achieve
that see how they’re squished together there we don’t want that see how they’re
relaxed we do want that don’t squeeze them together wide if I squeeze them
together and put them in the cover see all that space there we don’t want that
see how now they’re relaxed we want that so we’re going to make a cardboard jig
to hold the signatures in place while we glue them and let them dry so we start
off by clamping the outside of the signatures together then we need a piece
of cardboard Rand about a millimeter thick we’re going to put two score lines
in it and these score lines need to be narrower than the spine it’s only Ajit you know make sure it’s squared it’s got
to be narrower than this spine area see how there’s a little gap there
I want a gap on both sides so I’m just going to make it just over half an inch
which is 15 millimeters I can’t give you a patent for this one you need to make
it to fit your particular cover size so I’ll put another skull on there and I’ll
check the fit so this jig has to fit inside the cover and then the pages have
to fit inside the jig so that there’s just a tiny little bit of of wiggle room
now the pages have to fit inside the jig nice and loose I’ll see how the jig is
shorter than the width of the pages here that has to happen so make sure your jig
is short at the sides so now we’ll get ready to glue in the signatures you see
how it works you’ll be able to see better as we start using it this just
saves you trying to hold it with your fingers it does the job for you
so I’m going to put it on elastic band around it long ways now see how it’s
that elastic bands a little tight it’s pulling it in a little bit too tight see
how big that gap is there I don’t want that bigger gap so I’m going to take the
band off and I’m going to give it a little stretch and I’m going to put it
back on and it’s nice and loose now but see how the for the spine area there of
the signatures have loosened up a little bit and it’s become
wider that’s much better that’s what I’m looking for I need that
little bit of width between the signatures now we’re going to use PVA
glue this is a nice thick glue and some gauze cloth or cheesecloth and here’s a
nice tip put your glue directly on to your glue mat it is easier to work with
you need to have a bowl to clean up then either
just get a nice flat short bristled brush this is the first very light pass
of glue that you need to put just over the stitches don’t put too much glue
there see I don’t want your glue to be running down in between the signatures
don’t put too much glue or it’ll run down there and glue your pages together
you don’t want that so cut out a piece of fabric or I’m using a little piece of
cheesecloth now it needs to be shorter see that’s a
bit shorter and wider I want a little bit of overhang now see how that tiny
bit of glue that we just put on there all that is doing is just holding it for
me and see how I’ve got a bit of a overhang on either side that’s giving me
that nice finish when we glue it into the book cover so now I’m going to go
back in and get a bit more generous with the glue because that fabric will stop
the glue from falling down in between the signatures that first bit of glue is
a bit tricky to put on because the the gauze wants to stick to my brush it’s sort of the glue sort of finds its
own way down onto the fold line of these pages so like I said don’t push it so
hard that it’s going to run down in between the pages and get good coverage
all the way across right to that very last signature right on the edge there
don’t miss those end signatures well they won’t be included if you think
they’re a little bit squished together just use your needle to separate them a
little bit there’s only two that have sort of closed up this is just
definitely an area that you need to take your time with you leave it in the jig –
don’t try and take it out okay now we can just leave that to dry now it’s nice
and dry we can take it out of the jig and we’ll do a test open up each group of pages and it’s
stuck together there that this is the only area that it done this so I just
scraped that a little bit of glue off and unstick them pages the rest have
turned out perfect so there’s a nice gap in between each group of signatures and
I like to leave these edges messy on the gauze because it adds to the charm and
we can go ahead and glue that into the cover now see look at that perfect with
that tiny little gap on the very outside so I will do the demo gluing it into the
phone matchbox color so if you think this – 80 GSM isn’t heavy enough you can
double it up like this this is why I’m showing you two different match box
covers throughout this tutorial I’m using the art clear to glue this time
because this Kraft cardstock it glues as soon as I put the glue on this it will
grab you I can barely wheel it once it’s on me so I just glue it down and trim it
right to the very edge of the matchbox cover like I said you don’t even have to
put the second piece on here I’m just showing you if your cardboard is a
little bit thin you can build it up by adding a second piece after you’re
finished your cover you do not need to add this second piece to your vintage
matchbox so do not add a second piece like this to the vintage plywood
matchbox so that that was very easy done so we’re going to glue the pages into
the spine cover now so put the glue on the glue mat again
it’s the same method whether you glue it into this faux matchbox or the real
McCoy matchbox so lay some glue onto the spine be reasonably generous and just sit it in place check the top
and the bottom that you’re in got an even amount at the top and the bottom
the left and the right side or the front and the back color flatten it down now
I’ve got to get my fingers I’m going to push my thumb towards the back of the
cover I gently don’t do this don’t make your pages bow just gently just for a
minute then I’ll get my pokey tool lay it on the table open up the signatures
and just push down that gauze or that fabric down into the spine of your cover
in between each signature do that you’ve got that little gap there so it’s easy
to do I’m going to do the same on my vintage
matchbox just to show you it’s the same now I’m just going to do exactly the
same put my first page into the front so line it up top bottom
and I’ll push down in between all the signatures like I did on this one and
that’s it they’re both done and don’t they look cute so don’t worry if you
haven’t got a genuine vintage matchbox make one of these a foam matchbox and
this is how they’ll turn out this so adorable I’m Donna and bye for now you

14 thoughts on “mini junk journal TUTORIAL | made from a vintage matchbox

  1. That's funny to see where we do the same and where we do things slightly differently 🙂 (I'm self-taught, though, from what I could deduce observing real books…)

  2. Tip Top, First Class tutorial, I've been struggling putting signatures into my covers, I had never considered making a 'jig' so you have taught me loads in this video. Awesomeness factor 10/10

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