Master Yi’s Ring Sword (League of Legends) – MAN AT ARMS: REFORGED

Master Yi’s Ring Sword (League of Legends) – MAN AT ARMS: REFORGED


(thrilling music) – I’m Matt. – I’m Kerry. – [Matt] We are the Stagmer brothers of Baltimore Knife and Sword. We’re going to be building
some of your favorite weapons and some weapons you’ve never seen before. – [Kerry] This is Man at Arms. Reforged. – So if you’ve been watching our League of Legends builds before and we’ve talked about playing, you’ll know that I mostly play ARAMs. When you’re playing ARAMs, that one champ you don’t want
to see on the other team, especially from a competent player, is Master Yi. To create Master Yi’s blade, I’ll be using 3.5 inches of 4140 stock. I’ll be knocking this down, getting it down to a bar form
using the Nazel power hammer. It’ll take me about a half an
hour to get it down to a bar and then we’ll work from there. – [Matt] Now that Kerry’s done
a lot of the brute forging and really broken down this round stock into a nice long bar, Ilya’s going to take over from here and start forging the blade. He’s going to continue drawing it out. He’s going to work on both the flat and on the sides to make sure everything stays nice
true as he draws it out. Here, you can clearly see
where Ilya’s spraying water onto the blade as he’s working and the scales popping from the surface. The reason we want that scale to pop off is it can leave really
deep pits in the metal. We have a really limited amount of material to work from this time. We’ve got to make a pretty large blade so we can’t afford any loss. (thrilling music) You can see now, Ilya’s
turning that symmetrical point that he forged in into the more Tanto, katana-like point that we’re
used to seeing in the game art. You’ve seen Ilya do very similar work on the Kill Bill katana episode. Ilya’s quickly become
one of the major masters in this country at forging
super large blades. Not too many people even
take those commissions. Many customers come, asking
all different sword makers if they’ll make super huge large blades like you guys request. Ilya has now forged more than probably any of them in this
country, maybe worldwide. He’s quickly become a master and it’s fun to watch him work. At this point, Ilya’s
removing the handle section so that he can define the tang. Doesn’t need that handle on
there for leverage anymore now that the blade’s drawn out so long. He’s flipped it over. He’s using a hot cut tool
underneath the power hammer. He’s just going to remove that material, allow him to forge that section. Now that the power hammer
work is done on this blade, Ilya’s going to move to the anvil and start forging in the bevels. You can see, as he works to
get these really steep bevels, he’s working on the
very edge of the anvil. This is so that when he
holds that blade at an angle and strikes it matching that angle, he doesn’t hit the face of the anvil, dinging it or possibly chipping the anvil. To give you guys a sense of time, Ilya’s been hand-beveling
now for about an hour. He’s now at the point where he’s joining the tip bevel into the shoulder bevel. He’s got about a six-inch section to go. This is a long process, takes about 20 heats to
get the bevel forged in on a big blade like this, so he’s just going to stay at it and then I’ll be ready to do the grinding. Now that the forging is done, it’s time to start the grinding. I have a few things I gotta
work out before I start. This is a hybrid between
a Chinese ring sword, which has nine rings down
the back of the blade. this only has two, and a Japanese katana. The Chinese ring swords are
very flimsy and very light, used in traditional forms. Japanese katana’s very thick
and has very prominent edges so I have to do a blend of them both. I’m going to start by
profiling just slightly and then start on those heavy bevels. (thrilling music) – Today, I’ve been working on the League of Legends ring sword and I’m doing the rings that are going to hang from the sword. We’re going to do them out of bronze and we decided to do them as the stylized snake
that’s eating its tail. Now I’m in the process of
carving the scales on it and once the scales are carved on it, we’ll cast it in bronze
and then finish it tomorrow and any place where I’ve lost the scales, I’ll be able to put them back
on with the chasing tool. – [Kerry] We’ll be doing
these castings with lost wax. First we take the waxes
and screw them into a tree. Then they’re set into a flask and plaster is poured around them. It’s a special plaster called investment. It’ll go into the kiln. We slowly ramp up to 1350, lowered to a thousand. It’ll be placed into the casting machine and then I’m going to bring in molten, 2100-degree bronze and pour it into the vacuum machine. After it reaches 900 degrees, we’ll take it to the water, it’ll steam off the investment, and show us our bronze. – The last step before
heat-treating the blade is to get those holes
located and drilled in where our rings will go after. Now that we got our blade
ready for heat treating, its time to move onto the guard portion. Just like in some previous
League of Legends builds, the splash art doesn’t always
match with the end game art so I’ve had to do a little figuring out, see where I want to go with this guard. This is the main splash art for Master Yi for his basic standard skin and this is what we’ve
based our design off so far. Unfortunately, all the
pictures I can find of it have that guard and the blade off angle so what I had to do was
kind of zoom in here, take a good look at everything, and I just freehand drew what I thought the guard would look like. What I’m going to do now is I’m going to mirror it over from
the center point here. Just gotta fill in a few lines. The blade will come out of this section. Probably going to set a stone or something like that in the middle, cut some overlays to make
those borders rise out. We’ll be good to go. (thrilling music) So we have six different
pieces that make up this guard. We have our central wings, we have the quillon block, and then the outer pieces which are going to make it
look like a nice rise border. What I have to do now is I gotta take both of
these quillon block pieces and instead of them being nice and flat, we want them to angle towards the blade so they’re thicker at the handle and thinner at the blade. (suspenseful music) – (mumbles) heat treat Master
Yi’s sword, his Da-dao. This blade is made out of 4140 steel. It’s an excellent steel
for jackhammer bits, hammer dies and other impact tools. 4140 has approximately 0.4% carbon, means I don’t have to
watch my temperatures as carefully as some
other higher carbon steels but it has tons of manganese
and tons of chrome in it. This means if I were to
try to hamon this blade, it would not show any hamon because it’s a deep-hardening steel and the quench goes all the way
under the clay to the spine. – [Kerry] Ilya now goes
into our long furnace brings this piece up
to critical temperature to where it’s non-magnetic, brings it out, and takes it to the quench. – So I quenched Master Yi’s Dadao. It is at full hardness now. However, because it’s 4140, it doesn’t get hard as
the high-carbon steels. Check this sound out. It doesn’t have that glassy
sound because it’s 4140. Its highest hardness I
can get on this blade in oil quench is about let’s say 55, 51 Rockwell. The highest hardness it
can get out of 1075, 1095 can be up to 60-61
Rockwell in an oil quench. Master Yi’s sword has been in the tank for about an hour already. In the tempering, this is
actually the last opportunity to straighten out any warps
produced in the quenching. So, I’m going to take it out and go to the vise to quickly
yank some of them straight. So Master Yi’s sword
is basically straight. Any other warping along the
edge will be fixed in the grind when it’s being made sharp. – Now that we have Master Yi’s Wushu blade completely heat-treated and tempered, I can move onto the polishing. My first goal is to start at the 80 grit and remove all the deep scale and then I’ll go through
the grits from there. (uptempo music) All right, so I just ran
this blade through the grits, 120, 220, I got a little
more polishing to do before I move onto the Scotch-Brite but I was able to define that kissaki, which is where the two
different bevels come together. I add a small back bevel on the spine. Just think it looks a little
more aggressive and I like it. Really happy with it so far. Time to get that hilt and the pommel on. – The pommel for Master Yi’s sword will be constructed from three pieces of black iron pipe and a
couple pieces of round bar. It’ll be forged into
two arrowhead finials. When forging finials like this, the pre-form is very important. So I’m going to take a
piece of this round bar and I’m going to flatten it out, and then I’m going to form two shoulders and then using the edge of the anvil, I’m going to buck that shape to get a shape like this. And then from there, I’ll bevel them and draw that point more and then it’ll get cleaned
up to look like that. So one, two, three. – So for the pommel on Master Yi, Sam’s already forged out
a couple of the points that go to the left and right. I’m going to be basically
turning a spike out the top and then we’ll probably do some faceting on it to get the fit. It’ll lock down into a pipe section that’ll become the main
part of the pommel. All that’s going to get welded solid and that’ll hold the whole sword together. – [Matt] For the
construction on our pommel, we’re going to use two pieces of pipe. One’s going to get a notch
in it, the other a V. They’re going to be put
together and welded solid. We’ll start by cutting the
two pieces of pipe on the saw. Then I move to the sander to sanding the notch and the V shape that will allow these two
pieces of pipe to join together. What we have is a cross-pipe
with a notch in it and a top pipe with a V in it. It’s going to get welded solid. Then we have these nice arrowheads that Sam forged. Then the lathe turn spike that Kerry did. It’ll go in the top. Now that the base of our
guard is polished out, it’s time to add those borders on. John’s going to use the MIG welder and weld all the way around the perimeter and then he’s going to move to the sanders and blend that weld off. WIth time winding down, the pressure’s on. No time for us to go one at a time so while John’s fastening the pommel, I blend the welds on the guards. – [Kerry] We’re going to
put some bright green paint into the background on this piece. But before that, the entire
piece has to be brassed because that’s going to be the highlight on the raised sections and
all the way around the border. After pre-heating the guards, Sam takes a solid brass wire wheel and runs it over the surface. The friction from the wire wheel and the pre-heat on the material lays the brass permanently onto the guard. So for the handle on Master Yi, we’ve got this small
flange that mounts here that goes on top of the guard. I’m going to be cutting that on the lathe, just a couple steps in here, and then we’ll take it over to the mill and make a larger slot
to go over the tang. We use a three-eights
cutter on the Gorton mill, make a slot where I’d placed
the hole using the lathe. So we’ have a small area that we’ve cut. It’s about a half inch. These are 12 millimeter stones. We’re going to be setting
sterling silver bezels in place. Then we’ll drop the stones
into them afterwards. I’m using a torch, low temperature solder, about 500 degrees here,
and an acid-based flux. That’s going to burn that
surface nice and clean for us. As soon as I feel like
I’m getting the heat, I’m going to put a little
bit of solder in the bottom, pick up the bezels, put a
little flux on the bezel and drop them right onto the solder and they should adhere perfectly. Afterwards, I’ll use a bezel pusher to lay in the edge and
keep the stone in place. – It’s time to move
onto our handle portion. The handle on Master Yi’s sword is a very long, spiraled handle. It’s in two parts but I’m
going to make my job easier by leaving it one part to start with. Then I’ll split it in half and make a nice spacer in between. Reason being is I want that spiral to remain real fluid through both pieces so we’re going to leave it this length. I’m going to go diagonal
on the sanding belt and get her carved up. (exciting music) All right, those of you that
are League of Legends fans know that Master Yi’s sword glows green. To create that green, we’ve added a couple gemstones but I also am going to paint the inside of our recess on the guard neon green. – So we’re closing in on Master Yi. The sword’s fully assembled now. We’re going to put the rings in. We’ve got to do some polishing. We’ll go back over the paint. The handle has to be finished out. It’s gold so this ring will
have to be golden as well. And then we’ll be finished
with the entire sword. (thrilling music) (exciting metal music)

100 thoughts on “Master Yi’s Ring Sword (League of Legends) – MAN AT ARMS: REFORGED

  1. I have no idea what any of these forging terms mean but I am going to sit here and pretend that I do.

  2. Try Braum's Shield if you haven't already. You should be able to use a model viewer to make things easier.

  3. Queria muito que ver a melhor arma de corte , há única utilizada por um Doctor!
    O Dr.Mundo.
    Vem pro mundo. Kkk

  4. but his sword has a curve to it and the guard looks nothing like that… is it just a concept and not meant to be a exact copy?

  5. Βραχιολακι … Θα το κάνουμε give away στο κανάλι του kafrogamer

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