Marbled Heart Swirl Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #17)

Marbled Heart Swirl Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #17)

Hi, This is Teri with Tree Marie Soapworks. Today I’m going to show you how I made this soap. It’s a heart swirl soap. And stick around to the end of the video and I will tell you what I would have done
differently for this batch, and let’s get started. First I start with my distilled
water and I use about 1/3 of my water weight in distilled water ice cubes and
then I top it off with my remaining water weight in just cold distilled
water. And I use the ice cubes to help cut down on fumes and also it does help
the lye solution cool down a little faster. Now that I’ve measured my lye, I add that
to my water and stir that until it’s dissolved. At this point, I measure my
sodium lactate which is a hardener and it’s not necessary but it just helps you
be able to unmold your soaps sooner and it makes your bar harder, which will make
it last longer. I use a rate of one teaspoon per pound of oils, and I set
that aside with my lye solution and I will add it later when my lye solution
has cooled. Next, I measure my coconut oil and I get that melting and then I start
to measure my liquid oils. I start with my avocado oil then my castor oil and
then my olive oil. I use these little squeeze bottles just to top off the
weight so I don’t go over. Once the coconut oil is melted I measure in my
cocoa butter pastilles and I stir those until they’re melted and if they need
microwaved I microwave them until they’re just barely melted. Next, I
prepare my colorants. First, I have Carribean Kiss and that’s from Rustic
Essentials and I use that at a rate of 0.8 teaspoons per pound of oils.
I just put that on a sheet of Plexiglas and then I add a little olive oil and I
mix it with my pallet knife until it’s completely combined. The next color I’m
using is Sunshine Yellow and it’s from Nurture Soap and I’m using that at a
rate of 1.25 teaspoons per pound of oils. For my next color, I’m using smooth
coconut carbon and that’s from Elements Bath and Body and this is also known as
Activated Charcoal. And when I use this I always use it at 1.5 teaspoons per pound
of soap Elements Bath and Body has a Colorant Calculator and if you’re
wondering how I figure my colorants at .8 teaspoons per pound of oils or
1.5 teaspoons per pound of soap, it’s really easy by just using that
calculator and you’ll get the answer so you only need to input a few things and
the answer comes out, and super easy. I’ve added a link below that tells you where you can find the description of the calculator. It’s on the elements bath and
bodies YouTube channel and then also where you can find the calculator. For my last color, I’m using titanium dioxide, and I’m using that at a rate of one
teaspoon per pound of oils. The fragrance I’m using today is from Bramble Berry,
and it’s called Energy, and it’s one of my go-to fragrances because it doesn’t
cause acceleration. Next, I add my liquid oils to my melted
hard oils. Since Energy is a well-behaved fragrance I just go ahead and add that
to my oils. Now that my oil solution and my lye solution are between 85 and 95
degrees Fahrenheit, I add my sodium lactate to my lye solution and then I
strain that into my oils. Before I start stick blending anything,
I weigh my bowl and my contents and then I subtract off the weight of my
bowl. And then I figure out my batter and today I’m using everything at 20% except
for the turquoise color, I’m using that at 40%. At this point, I stick blend until
an emulsion is reached. And you can tell an emulsion has reached when you look at the bell of the stick blender and you see if that batter that’s running off
there is breaking apart or if it’s a consistent than film over the whole bell
of the stick blender. Now that my batter has reached an emulsion, I just go ahead
and split my batter according to the numbers that I got earlier, and I divide
it into three of the 20% and one of the 40 percents. Next, I add my colors to the battery, and
I add the turquoise to the bigger of the batters and the other three get the
yellow, white, and black. At this point, I just want to make sure
my batter is tracing and it’s not still at an emulsion. Trace is when you can
trace a line with your spatula and you can see the trail, and also when you stir
your batter or you can feel a little resistance. It’s not like you’re just
stirring plain old water. At this point, I just add my batter to my squeeze bottles,
and these squeeze bottles I lined with the sealed air packaging you get when
you get your shipments. I just cut the top off and that works perfectly. Next, I
just pour about half that turquoise batter in the bottom of my mold, and then
I start to make my dots. And I just do random dots on top of each other, and
fill in the spaces, and just have fun with it. And now the swirls, and this is the fun
part. I just wanted hearts in this one, so you
just kind of go through the middle and just connect a bunch of the dots
together and swirl around and make it fancy. It’s so fun! I wish I had so many
more to swirl. It makes me want to take up the Japanese marbling or it’s Suminagashi I think it’s called, or there’s Ebru another word, but just
marbling. I just I love watching the marbling videos and it gives you all
kinds of ideas for soap. When I finished my design, I covered my soap and I put it
in the oven that was preheated to the lowest temperature. And when I put the
soap in the oven I turned the oven off and I turned the oven light on and I
just leave it that way overnight and then I turned the oven
light off in the morning and then I just let the soap come to room temperature
naturally. And this helps it go through gel of course but, also helps it to not
get soda ash. And I usually keep my soap covered for another 24 hours after that
before I cut it. It depends on where you live and how the humidity is, but here
it’s kind of humid and that I believe causes soda ash as well as airflow so I
keep my soap covered for an extra 24 hours. Okay, now my soap is out of the mold and
it’s 48 hours later I use this guide to cut off the sides of my slab. And then I
divide the soap into two-inch bars this way. I’m making these into guest bars
since my slab came out so thin. Next, I just need to divide these two-inch bars in half. And I do that by slanting my ruler, and finding a
measurement that I can easily divide in half. So I put the 0 on went in and the 7
inches on the other end, and then I marked my halfway points at the 3.5-inch line and then I just cut them in half. And that makes me 10 bars but
these are a little small. Since I am just cleaning my bars now, I’m
going to tell you a little bit about what I learned from this batch. And the
first thing I learned that kind of frustrated me is the yellow, it came out
really dull, and I’ve had that happen a lot before with yellows and oranges and
I think when yellows and oranges that our Mica’s go through gel, a lot of times
they’re just kind of a dull or pastel shade of yellow or orange. And I’m going
to have to do further testing, but I have my color swatches that I made, and since
they probably didn’t go through gel because they’re a little smaller in a
single cavity mold, they didn’t go through gel so they’re a deeper color.
But whenever my yellows go through gel a lot of times they’re like this. A few
videos back I did a soap that had two greens and a yellow and that yellow came
out really nice and deep, and I used this Sunshine Yellow mica and I also used a
yellow oxide and neon and that soap came out just a gorgeous yellow, it was a
really deep yellow. And I think if I would have done that here, it would have
been fine, and now I think I probably wouldn’t have even needed the mica. I
could have just used the yellow oxide and the yellow neon and it probably
would have been the same color. The other thing I learned when using a
slab mold and you’re just doing the design on the top, I should have poured
more base color I used 40% of the batter for my base color, but actually, I use
less than that because part of that color I used on top so probably about
30% I use for my base color. And I think I really should have used probably about
60%. So that’s why these bars ended up being so small. My batter kind of got
thick, so I didn’t want to add anymore. so I just ended up cutting these a little
smaller and they’re kind of like a guest sized bar or between a guest size and a
regular-sized bar. Other than that, I was really happy with how these bars came
out, and I can’t wait to do some more marbling. I just love playing with
soap this way. if you’re interested in soap making I started a group that’s
called Tree Marie Soapworks, and I have a link down in my description, and it’s
for learning about soap. It’s strictly about soap so you can share some of your projects and we can troubleshoot and we can learn together. And so if you’re
interested you have to ask to join, because it’s a private group. And please
ask to join under your personal Facebook account and not your business account.
Thank you so much for joining me today. and if you appreciate videos like this,
please give me a thumbs up and subscribe and share and if you would like to
receive a notification the next time I post just hit the bell. And I appreciate
those of you that placed an order this week thank you very much! And have a
great day! ๐Ÿ™‚

58 thoughts on “Marbled Heart Swirl Cold Process Soap (Technique Video #17)

  1. Ah, thanks for the trypophobia warning! This one didn't really bother me personally, but I can see why it would squick some people. I've actually started collecting the air packaging bags to use for various things now, thanks to you mentioning it before. They look gorgeous! ๐Ÿ˜

    I actually saw someone else asking on their video about colour coming out less (intense after gel phase… IIRC she mentioned she thought it was related to the very big water discount she was using – I don't know if that's any use, though. It surprised me because I'd always heard that gel phase means more vivid colours generally, but now you've mentioned it too.

  2. Thank you for sharing this technique. I just love it and have been wanting to achieve this successfully just for one timeโค

  3. Sometimes I think I watch you to see you mix your colors lol. For some reason that is soothing to me. Must me the painter in me.

  4. Thankful so much for giving us the tools such as the conversion calculator. I am new to having to figure out how much of what to use. I learned from kits. But mostly from watching soap makers such as yourself. I donโ€™t intend to sell but I like the creativity. By the end of my group of kits I followed the directions on how to make the soap but I ventured out on decorating it with swirls etc.

  5. Hi Teri, I absolutely love your soaps. I'm wondering if we can purchase the soaps you make on this channel. I've checked out your website but I don't see these specific soaps. Would love to purchase one.

  6. Teri, cool technique! Thanx for sharing! I rather like the way the yellow turned out…the color combo reminds me of 1930โ€™s reproduction quilting fabric.

  7. I never really comment on videos but I have to say thank you for that typophobia warning. I know everyone thinks it's ~fake~ but seriously, I break out in bad itches and get so anxious so it's really great to have had that warning.

    Also the soap turned out great! ๐Ÿ™‚ I love that green color!

  8. OMGEEEEEE! I LOVE THIS!!! I was watching a YouTube video on food when I scrolled down and saw tiffany teal! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿ˜ฒ๐Ÿฅฐ๐Ÿฅฐ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

  9. Thank you for your tutorials, you put it so simply which is great for the beginners. I am really just a gawker, I have only done melt and pour thus far. requested to be in your face book group, it will give me another place to learn and get the courage to try cold process. I have all the supplies, just need to get some confidence. ๐Ÿ™‚

  10. Good morning sweetheart โค
    What a beautiful Sunday to start with one of our dear Teri's videos โค
    Thanks sweetheart ๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ’›๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ’›

  11. Beautiful as ever! Japanese marbled paper and cardstock would make excellent packaging. It is such a freeing exervise too. Thank you!

  12. Dear Teri ๐Ÿ’›๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ’›
    I and my family really enjoyed the video it was excellent ๐Ÿ’–.
    The best part of it is that I could see numbers in the scale when you weigh the things on it also the numbers on the calculator it was so clear.
    Thanks alot sweetheart for your great effort in making the soap and video.
    We love you ๐Ÿ’›TERI๐Ÿ’š

  13. I like the colours the way they are, a bolder yellow wouldโ€™ve been too strong for the softness of the design ๐Ÿ’–

  14. I like the subtle yellow. A happy accident. Boomtastic yellow might have been a bit overwhelming to look at and the green stands out so nicely as it is.

  15. Dear Teri, despite the thin soap slab produced by the larger mold, I really like that technique of making those dots by using the squeeze bottles. I learn something new every time I watch a new video of yours. I continue to be so tickled by your consummate weighing and measuring of ingredients. Your presentation is professional. You speak well and have a pleasant voice. I like how you sometimes speed up the video to "get to the good stuff". It's all good! Your videography is top notch. You are the "Rachael Ray" of soap making!

  16. Lovely video Teri ๐Ÿฅฐ and your soap turned out so pretty!! I think you are right about that yellow colour and gelling. I have the same one! ๐Ÿ’ž

  17. Yes girl!!!! So, so beautiful. Can't wait to see your next project!! Maybe that orange cream sickle..! Lol โค๏ธ

  18. Hi, you have a pleasant voice and you speak professionally ..your own style of mixing colorants and measuring of ingredients. Amazing soap ..!!!! High quality video recording. TFS
    I joined you long back.
    Bindhu from Yellow Rose Homemade Soaps
    Please support me too.
    Thank you.

  19. Awesome soaps, Teri!! Love the design. Great tip about the yellow and orange micas. I've noticed they get dull as well, but never connected it with gel phase since it usually makes colors brighter!

  20. Quรฉ belleza de jabรณn, me encantรณ, que haces con los sobros de jabรณn cuando limpias con el corta vegetales.

  21. Gorgeous soap–as usual! Your comment about the yellow not being quite as bright as you'd've liked is a challenge I've had. I found that adding a bit of neon orange to my orange mica (or yellow neon to yellow mica) at about 1/4 tsp neon to 3/4 tsp mica really helps the color to pop without going full neon (though I DO love hard-core neon!). ๐Ÿ™‚ Thanks for the great video and sharing your talents with us!

  22. These turned out so pretty! The colour scheme really worked out, even the muted yellow! To be honest, I personally liked the muted version better than the bright one.

  23. These turned out nicely. You are such a great teacher. Thanks for taking the time to make videos and inspire us all. โœŒ๐Ÿฝ

  24. I love your soaps. A question: I want to try to colour my soaps with herbs and vegetables. If I was going to add those natural colourants to this soap, is there anything I should be aware of? Can I go on and add my botanicals on top of your recipe? And what about fragrance? If I don't use fragrance, would the oils have an "oily" smell? Thanks for sharing.

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