Make Gold Coin Necklace – Keum-boo Jewellery Making

Make Gold Coin Necklace – Keum-boo Jewellery Making

hello and welcome to this video I’m
going to show you how to make a gold coin necklace using silver metal clay
and Keum-boo, it’s an ancient Japanese technique which means that we can
combine gold leaf or a gold plating on top of our pieces in a really nice way
and it’s 24 karat gold so it’s a very special way to be able to add gold to
your work so to start off with we can have a look at the samples I’ve got a
couple of gold coin coin disk necklaces here so there’s a small one which has a
really nice pattern around it and also a large one with a deeper pattern this
technique does work best with shallow patterns but you can see that you can
also do it with slightly raised ones you can also do it without a pattern at all
just on a flat piece and we’re going to be making our piece out of metal clay
but you can also use this technique on sterling silver you just need to prepare
it first but for today we’re going to be working with metal clay so I’m going to
show you the tools and materials that we need to create this project so we’re
going to have our usual metal clay set up which includes our roller and either
spacers or cards for measuring out the thickness of our clay we’re also going
to need a stencil or a cookie cutter to cut out the shape of our design and I’m
using circles to make the disc and a needle tool which is for also going
around and cutting out that those disc shapes then we’re going to have a work
area so I use Teflon this is one of my favorite kind of non-stick mats you
could also roll out your piece on a texture plate if you prefer just make
sure you roll it well so that your work is well protected I’m going to use a
texture I really love this texture plate it’s called jazmine dream by Palm East
so thank you Pam for these they’re gorgeous and but you can use any texture
plate you like I just think this is a really lovely pattern and I found with
gold kind of discs I try and get something
I think will fit really nicely in the center in the center of these textures
work really well for that as well we’re going to need a pen
and some scissors so try and make sure you have some fine or sharp scissors
because that’s what we’re going to use to cut out the gold leaf then I’ve got
my brass brush for polishing up my piece before I do the kmb one thing for this
project it’s a little bit different is we need lots of burnishers and the more
burnishers you have the better really so I’ve got four I’ve got two agate
burnishers agate is a type of stone so it’s a slightly softer burnisher and
I’ve got two steel burnishers they’re also quite useful I do prefer I get
varnishes for this project because it’s just a little bit softer on the gold but
whatever you have you can use and the more you have the easier it’s gonna be
then I’ve got my hand drill which is gonna be from making a hole in the piece
and I’ve got some tweezers for using when I’m touching a hot piece or also
when I’m using the foil because it’s very fine I don’t want to touch it too
much with my hands a sand pad which I’ll use to clean up the piece I’ve got some
cling film which I always have on my table when I’m working metal clay just
to be able to wrap up any clay that I’m not using at the time to make sure it
doesn’t dry out and make the make the most of it we’ve also got a bowl of
water for quenching so it’s just a heatproof bowl and I’ve just popped some
water in there so that I can quench it what else do we have our of course
they’re all important gold foil so this is the 24 karat gold when you’re buying
it online it does say suitable for kambou and you’ll see inside this is the
pack that I’ve got so it’s a kind of rectangle I’ll be able to do quite a lot
of pieces with that depending on the size of them so that’s going to be fun
to work with a little bit later it just comes in this little envelope so try and
keep it in there keep it nice and safe so you don’t lose it or accidentally
it’s very light so it’s easy to kind of get stuck to something so you just want
to keep it nice safe I’ve got some metal clay you
probably five grams is plenty for this project it depends how big you’d like
your coin to be but five grams should be plenty this is a 10 gram packet so I can
make quite a few pieces with this badge a bomb or some olive oil for greasing
your work area I’ve got some jump rings and a gold chain which I’m going to use
just to attach the piece when I’m finished with it and finally I’ve got a
set of pliers just for again attaching my findings at the end and a cutter as
well just in case I need to cut my chain might not need that one for this this
project then I have my firing brick and torch before firing my metal clay pieces
and finally we are going to be using a hot plate so I’ll show you that a little
bit later on in the project but that’s what we’re going to be using for heating
up the piece to add our gold for kambou and we also need a timer but I use my
phone for that just for timing how long it’s going to take to fire the metal
clay brilliant so they’re all the bits and pieces we need so go and get them
ready a hand I’ll see very shortly and we’ll start
making the gold coin necklace as always when you’re working with metal clay you
want to get everything ready before we open the clay packet because we want to
minimize the time that the clay is exposed to air so it doesn’t dry out
quickly so I’ve got my playing cards laid out and I’ve got my Teflon mat I’ve
got five cards on each side and I’m going to go down to four cards when I
put the texture on because I want just a shallow texture for this this piece
because I’m doing K and boo in it I don’t want to deep texture so I’ve got
my texture mat at the ready and what I like to do is place my stencil sheet
over it and just work out which size I’m going to use taking into account
obviously there’s going to be some shrinkage of about ten percent and what
exact pattern I want to go for so once I’ve decided and I’ve got all my
design in mind I’m ready to open my clay I’ve also got my roller my badger BOM
and my needle tool at hand so first off I’m just going to open my
badger bomb and grease the area that I’m going to be working on to make sure none
of the clay gets stuck so pop a bit on my roller and on my mat and plenty on my
texture map especially this one it’s very fine so I want to make sure I’ve
got plenty on there great now we’re ready to open the clay this is at a 10 gram packet and I don’t
need all of it so I’m just going to take rocks and lick me off out go for the
bigger half the spare bit I’m just going to wrap in my cling film to keep it
really airtight for later then I’m just going to give it a roll all my five
cards just to spread it out a little bit go down to my four cards and then I’ve
got my texture map at the ready I’m just going to take a little bit of time to
place it in the right area over the top and do one firm roll oh that was nice
and firm it stuck to it so it can very gently peel it off and they see that lovely texture has
taken place if you’re not happy with the texture at this stage now’s a good time
to roll out the clay and start again but if you’re happy with it which I am you
can cut it out with your stencils I’ll just place my piece over and I’m using a
needle tool you can also use an actual needle if you like so very fine I’m just
dipping it in the badger balm so it’s a little bit greased not too much and then
I’ll go all the way around hopefully I’ll just take off the excess
clay that we don’t need and always wrap that up straight away back with the
other clay it’s silver after all we don’t want to lose any of it don’t worry
if it does dry out you can reconstitute it so it’s not the end of the world but
we do our best to try and keep it nice and moist so we can use it again quickly great and that is it for now that’s our
coin so I’m going to pop that on the hot plate and leave it to dry and then it’ll
be ready to sand and drill now our piece is dry we’ve left it on the hot plate
for a while we’re ready to start sanding and drilling so I’m gonna start by
drilling so first of all I just want to choose where I want the hole on my piece
you can look at the samples for this one I’ve done a hole at the top for the
little one and I’ve done quite a big hole because I wanted to fit two jump
rings in so this is an important thing to consider at this stage and then for
my larger sample I’ve done two holes because I wanted the chain to go to the
side so that’s something to have a think about at this stage it’s how do you want
to do it this is another fairly small one so I’m just going to go for one hole
in the middle and I’m using a one millimeter drill bit to give it a fairly
decent sized hole look closely at the piece and choose where I want
the top to be place my drill and go fret if you’ve not drilled metal clay before
it’s important to remember that it’s very fragile
so you don’t want to push down or put any pressure on the piece you’re
literally just applying a very small pressure from the top of your hand and
twisting round so you have to be a little bit patient and wait for it to go
through but if we do push it can very easily break the piece so it’s it’s not
worth it give it give it a bit of time it’ll go through and you can see it’s
working as you can see the little bits of dust coming out might be a little bit
too small for you to see but on your piece at home you’ll be able to see
little bits of dust coming up as well so I’m just going to drill til I get all
the way through to the other side great so now we’re through to the other side
and go all the way through a couple of times I also like to go through from the
back just to make sure that that side is definitely well drilled to fab then I’m
going to sand my piece so I’m just using a bit of sanding pad I don’t need to do
a lot because I’ve only got a shallow texture as I’m just going to go around
the edge smooth it off and it’s really worth as always a mess with clay
spending the time now to make it really lovely and smooth because once it’s in
metal it’s a lot more work to do all of those bits if there’s any bits on the
front and back you need to do then go ahead and do those again always being
very gentle with your piece at this stage it’s a very fragile stage it’s not
like metal yet great and then when I’m happy I’m ready to
fire so I’m gonna bring my brick over place it on there so I’m gonna fire the
piece for three minutes and I’m going to use the timer on my phone
and get my torch ready turn it on and the gas on click the switch so there’s a little bit of smoke and
often a little fire that’s the binder burning off from the metal clay that’s
come perfectly normal and your piece goes sort of dark and then it will go a
bright white color and then we’re looking for that peachy glow then I’ll
start my timer so the peachy glow is very soft it’s not orange at all it’s
just it’s always white with just a slight tinge and you can see my piece
physically shrinking sometimes it actually curls up as well don’t worry
about that we’ll flatten it out later and I keep moving my flame around the
piece as I’m firing to make sure that I don’t focus just on one area and
accidentally start melting it if you’ve never done any metal clay before I’d
recommend taking the beginners course just to learn about torch firing and all
these things because I am skimming through them quite quickly but of course
always be careful when you’re using a torch at home make sure your hair is
tied back there’s nothing flammable around and you’ve also got a strong fire
break like I’ve got to protect your surfaces my time is up I’ve turned off
my torch remember it’s very hot so don’t touch it put it somewhere safe and also
my piece is very hot but it’s now fired so it’s now in the silver stage I’m just
going to grab my tweezers and quench it in a bowl of water and hear that nice
quenching sound wonderful so the piece is now fired it
is silver so that they it can honk kind of hear the sound and normally at this
stage I start polishing with my brass brush and go on to my polishing papers
but because I’m using kambou I want to keep it at this stage because it’s gonna
‘dear most effectively to the goal the next thing I want to do is measure out
my gold so I’ve got my gold just and make sure I’ve got no wet bits on my
hands and I can take out of the packet and the gold foil is very fine so I
don’t touch it too much but I can pull it out just very gently and place it on
this piece of paper that comes with it then I’m just going to fold the paper in
half and put the gold right at the bottom I like to put it right at the
bottom in one corner so I know exactly where it is because what I’m going to do
next is draw out my circle so that I can cut out my gold so using my piece again
I just wanna make sure it’s nice and dry so using my piece as the marker and a
fine pen or pencil I’m just going to draw all the way around and drawing around the outside like this
will make my gold a little bit bigger than the coin but that’s a good thing
because it will then go slightly down the sides which I quite like of course
if you weren’t doing a gold coin or you just wanted to add a bit of gold you
could just cut out whatever shape you want some people use the little cutters
it all kind of like punch hole punch cutters or you can even just do specs by
adding little bits and pieces but I’m gonna go for the whole the whole piece
using my scissors I’m just going to cut round you might be able to hear in the
background I’ve turned my hot plate up to high heat just to get it ready
because we’re going to be using that next wonderful so now I can see my
circular shape and that will definitely be covering the whole of my coin so next
up I’m going to put my coin onto the hot plate and leave it on there for a few
minutes to get really hot so I’ve turned my top plate up to a top temperature I
need this to be really hot because how kmb works in terms of the process is
this gold is going to be fused onto the silver using a mixture of heat and
pressure so the first thing we need to do is get it really nice and hot and see
I’ve placed my piece on the hot plate and I have turned my hot plate up really
high so in terms of health and safety be really careful at this stage it will get
very very hot and if you have heat proof gloves then that’s a good thing to be
able to wear I don’t always use heat proof gloves when I’m doing this
technique but just be aware of the risk that you are going to be using your
hands near the hot plate and so it does help if I was going to do a lot of
kambou in a row I would use heat proof gloves then I’ve got my banishes so I’ve
got my agate burnishers and my steel burnishers I’m gonna start with two
agate vanishes and what I’m going to do is essentially I’m going to place the
foil onto my piece then I’m going to start rubbing it with my burnishers to
help the metal to fuse because it’s heat and pressure that helps the gold to fuse
so I need to apply the pressure with the burnishers then I’m going to switch to
my other burnishers and allow these to cool down because what happens is the
burnishers get very hot and when they get hot they can start tearing the gold
which we don’t want if your gold does tear a bit don’t worry too much because
you can always add little bits on afterwards so it’s not doesn’t have to
be perfect great so now I’m going to get my tweezers and just place my foil onto
the piece and I’m going to look around to make sure that it is nice and
centered because once it starts fusing I won’t be up to move it tiny bit more
this way okay when I’m happy I start with the center of the piece just applying gentle pressure and I tend to
use one Vanisher to hold it and the other one just push and I work from the
in out because I don’t want any kind of bubbles or creases and this does take a
bit of time so I’m going to spend a bit of time on it
I’m not pushing too hard because I don’t want the piece to fly off so you always
have to be careful but I also am applying a pressure if you’re doing this
for a while and nothing happens what that normally means as a piece isn’t hot
enough so just to be aware but I can see already that is starting to join to the
piece so if I tried to move that foil off now I would really struggle so
that’s a good sign you’re giving it a good rub moving it
round I find this a very satisfying process joining the gold and watching
the piece turn to that beautiful gold color and then once I feel like I have
worked towards the edge what I do is just start going in around the edge a
little bit I do you want to make sure I get
the top first so hopefully you can see it’s starting to take the texture it’s
not gone all the way in the act and then in a moment I’m going to switch to my
steel burnishers just to give these ones a bit of time to cool down if you have
just a gate that’s fine or even if you have just steel that’s fine the issue
with the steel ones is they do get hotter faster so if you if you’re
choosing just one if you’re buying them I would get just a gate so I’m actually
nearly there just all I’m doing now is just continuing to apply that pressure
make sure that there’s no air bubbles or loose bits and that it’s all really nice
and fused sometimes because the area gets so hot you can’t tell how well
everything’s fused until you look really closely you can take it off cool it down
look at it and then come back and do a bit more and then when I’m happy with it
I the next thing I want to do is find my hole okay so I know it’s there just by
flipping it over I can see where it is there we go just going to poke it in and
twist it round to fuse that bit as well when I’m happy that it’s all nice and
fused I can take my piece off of the hot plate I’m gonna place it on a steel
block to cool it down if you don’t have a steel block just place it on a heat
proof area it’s gonna be very hot – very hot metal you don’t want to put it on
your regular surfaces so you can put it back on your fire brick if you like and
just leave it to cool we don’t want to quench it and then we can inspect it a
bit further and see if we need to do any more so now my piece is completely cool
and easy to touch and I’m happy with the fusing I’m ready to attach it to my
chain first of all I’m just gonna brush the back because the back is silver
still and I haven’t really done anything to it yet so I’m just going to give that
a brass brush and you can polish the whole back in fact I’d recommend
polishing the whole back with your polishing papers going through your
grades and also the Glen or just to make it a really nice professional finish
even though it’s the back isn’t it it’s important with the front I tend not to
do anything else because we’ve already burnished it so we’ve got that really
nice shine but if you did want to polish it you can just be a little bit careful
because even though it’s added to the piece it’s not a thick thick layer so we
don’t want to be sanding it or anything like that and then I simply attach it to
my chain using a pair of pliers this one’s gonna pop it on a jump ring open
that up and thread it through and I’ve got a gold filled chain which I’m using
here to match you could use a solid gold chain gold-filled you could use gold
plated although I’d recommend gold filled as it’s just lasts a little bit
longer so bring that to a close and there we have a gold coin necklace and
if you did want to do an actual coin shape you could do that very easily by
just using a mold of a coin so you could use your two part molding compound to
make a mold you just have to be a bit careful about the actual coins that you
use I’ve seen lots of kind of Roman coin replicas on
eBay and things so you could get some of those if you’re using modern-day coins I
don’t think that that’s allowed or certainly not for selling so just be
careful about that and yeah this is a wonderful technique whether you want to
make this kind of project or you want to make something very different and just
add the km Bou technique to it they don’t have to be only flat pieces you
can do it on curved pieces and rings as well it’s just a little bit more tricky
so I’d start with a flat piece first and build up your confidence the key to this
technique is heat and pressure so make sure your piece is already fired and
that it’s silver fine silver cut out your kambou put it on the hot plate make
it really hot and apply that pressure with the burnishers and good luck with
your making so I hope you enjoyed that project I’ll see you on the next video
for some more ways to add gold to metal clay

9 thoughts on “Make Gold Coin Necklace – Keum-boo Jewellery Making

  1. Can not believe that 4 people have disliked this video. Jessica has put a lot of hard work into making this video. All her video she makes are professionally made. thank you so much for making this video, Jessica. I'm going to give this metal clay making a go. can not wait for the next video.

  2. Hello Great video! For how long time you leave the metal clay peace onto the cooking heater? Thank you ♥️

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