Learn How to Make a Quilt – Make Quilt Block 5 – Hourglass Four Patch | Fat Quarter Shop

Learn How to Make a Quilt – Make Quilt Block 5 – Hourglass Four Patch | Fat Quarter Shop


(upbeat music) – Welcome to “The Ultimate
Beginner Quilt Series” by Fat Quarter Shop. In this series, I’m gonna be showing you how to make a quilt all the way from the start, to the finish. This series is sponsored by Moda fabrics and Ever Sewn sewing machines. I’m gonna be giving you lots of tips, and we’re gonna be building
our first quilt together. In this video, we will
be working on block five, which is an hourglass four patch block. So we’re getting a little
bit more complicated, and we’re gonna be working
with hourglass blocks and we’re making them bigger
and trimming them down. We’re gonna talk about
using leaders and enders, pinning, and working on the bias. So let’s get started. So to make this pattern, you’ve got to cut 7 1/2 inches square, but our ruler is only 6 1/2 inches wide, so I’m gonna show you how
you can make that work with your ruler. You’ll always wanna cut with your ruler, but if you need to something is 7 1/2 you can use the mat, you’re just gonna want to use your ruler to actually do the cutting. So first thing you’re gonna
do is look at your pattern and you’re gonna see that
you’re gonna cut a pink and green square 7 1/2 inches, and a blue and yellow square 7 1/2 inches. And from there you’re
gonna cut all of them on the diagonal twice. That is gonna give you
a total of 16 triangles. Now we’re gonna start cutting, and we have used a lot of these pieces of our fat quarters in previous blocks, so are going to just use the sections that are left. So I’m gonna start with my
biggest piece on the bottom. So the one that I haven’t
cut from is the yellow. I’ll put my next biggest piece, I’m just going to line up like a corner where I’ve got a nice corner where I can see all the sides and we’re just gonna
cut a 7 1/2 inch square. So you just move the
fabric however will fit, and if you want, you
can use the guide to see you need it to be about this big. So we’ve got this, and now we need to cut
four 7 1/2 inch squares. You wanna make sure everything
is pressed nice and flat, and we’re going to be using
the six and a half inch ruler but we need it to be 7 1/2. So we’re going to start a little bit up. So this is 6 1/2, so
we’ve got another inch, so what I’m gonna do is I’m just gonna cut the top to the side. Pull that out of the way a tiny bit, cut the next piece. Move my ruler down, keep it flush with what you’ve already cut, and you’ve cut that little section, and you’ve cut that little section off. So we know we’ve got 7 1/2. So you just check this seam right here to make sure this is
straight and this is straight and it looks straight, so we’re going to turn the
ruler, line up the bottom, and 7 1/2 is here. So we’ll cut here, move your ruler up and keep cutting. And then we will turn
without moving anything and cut another 7 1/2, and here I’m making
sure the top is straight this line is straight, and then we’re gonna pull this down. And this block we have
actually made everything where you actually cut it slightly bigger so you can trim down. So if it’s not 100% perfect, you’re okay. And from here, before I move the fabrics, I want to cut on the diagonal twice, which means we’re cutting on the bias. So you will just put your ruler, you wanna make sure the very tip is here, and the very tip is here,
that’s super important. And you’ll cut, move your ruler where
you don’t move the fabric and do the same thing
on the other direction without moving your fabric, you’ve got the tip and the tip. And it helps if you put your finger there because you can feel if
it’s in the right spot. So now we have four
triangles from each square, I’m gonna set them by their
letter and label them, and then we’re gonna
get our design board out and start organizing our fabrics. So we’ve got our design board out and I’m gonna follow my pattern closely and just lay out all
of my blocks to start. It’s always good to just
get everything laid out, triple checked before you start pinning. And I’ll separate them a little bit so I can tell the difference. And sometimes when you’re laying them out maybe on the first try, maybe they won’t come our right, that’s why you’re just gonna double check. And that’s why these
design boards really help when you’re sewing because
your fabric won’t move when you go to your sewing table. So here’s this. And it looks like I
have them all laid out. So when I said you’re cutting on the bias, that means you’re cutting on
the diagonal of the fabric. And if you look at this piece of fabric, if you stretch it, it bends. And this side also bends. So that means it’s wavy and in the machine it
can really get distorted, so you have to be really careful when you’re working with bias edges. Now this outside edge is not bias, and does not stretch. So all of these inside cuts are bias, so you just wanna be really gentle. And anytime you’re working with bias edges I would always pin. Now I always pin no matter what, but with bias edges
you definitely have to. So what I’m gonna do here is I’m going to lay my
fabric on top of each other so you’ll see that I’m
gonna sew down this edge. For this one I’m gonna sew down this edge. Just keep going, just
get them all laid out and then we’re gonna pin them and keep them in place and we can chain sew with
a leader and an ender. So first thing we’re gonna
do is pin at both ends, and again, make sure
everything is lined up exactly, line up your tip, and I’m gonna pin once in the center. So since I have pre-starched my fabrics like we talked about in one
of our very first videos in “The Ultimate Beginner’s Series,” this will not stretch as much, it will keep your fabric
a little bit stiffer, which makes bias easier to work with. So we’re gonna just get
all of these pins in. And we’re gonna go to the sewing machine. So now I’ve got everything pinned, and I’m gonna go to the sewing machine. So I’m gonna start with
a leader and an ender. That is basically just a leftover scrap that you feed under your sewing machine and just stitch on it. That’s gonna give you a firm anchor before you start stitching. And we’re gonna leave that there. Now I’m gonna take my pieces
and you can either start at the 90 degree angle
or at the triangle tip. For a beginner, I would always
start on the 90 degree angle because it’s easier to feed in the machine and less likely to distort
at this intersection. So we’re just gonna start all of these right at that 90 degree angle and stitch with a 1/4 inch seam. We’re gonna leave a little gap, we’re not gonna cut our thread, we’re just gonna keep going, that is called chain piecing. It keeps all your fabrics together, it’s easier, and it saves thread. So we’re just gonna keep going, starting at that 90 degree angle. And again when you’re sewing, you wanna make sure your
fabrics stay lined up, so if they get misaligned, and one fabric overlaps the other, just reposition it. And to end, we’re gonna
take another scrap of fabric and just place it, this is gonna help you with threads later,
it’ll be nice and secure when you start your next stitches. So you’re just gonna leave that in there and we’ll cut all of our pieces apart, and go iron. And the leader that we started with which is the scrap that we’ll get to at the very end, I’m gonna keep that and use that again, we’ll just
sew over it a bunch of items and it helps you keep the
thread in your machine and it is just a great sewing tool. So we’re just gonna keep this and we can use this again
probably 20 or 30 times and we can just start and end with a leader and ender. When you’re looking at your pattern you will see arrows that have
arrow points at each end, and that means we’re gonna
be pressing these open. So if you ever see that in a pattern, that’s what it means. So we are going to first take our units, just lie them flat, and we’re gonna set the
seam by pressing down. Now to press open, I like to press to one side, stop, come back, and then press open. So I will just press like normal, where I finger press
to one side and press. I will keep stacking all of
these on top of each other because when I do that, the
bottom ones get set even more and they’re nice and flat. So I’ll do all eight and then I will press open after that. The reason I don’t press open right after is because you can burn your fingers, and I learned that a few too many times. So just set your seam,
finger press to any side, doesn’t matter, really nice and flat. Just lay them nice and flat. So now that I have them
all pressed to one side, I’m gonna press them open. So I’ll just turn them over, bring it back, press
open with your fingers, put the very tip of your
iron right on the edge and just guide your iron. Make sure you don’t rock, and then I’ll just move
these out of the way as I go. But finger pressing to get
that open is really great, gets it nice and flat, just make sure you get
your finger out of the way of the tip of the iron because I’ve burned
myself before quite a bit, and you might also burn
yourself when you start, but you’ll get used to it. And so you can see on this one, I’ve got a little fold right here that’s kind of flipping open and I wanna get that flat because if that’s not fixed, it will wrinkle on the front. So fix that, press open, glide your iron. And again these are bias edges, which is why I’m not rocking my iron. I know I keep saying that in every video but it’s so important
to not rock your iron. And I let it sit maybe
two to three seconds, I only press from the back, I don’t go back and press from the front, but if you would like
to, you definitely can. And pressing open does take
a little bit more time, but it’s good to know how to do it, so again here you can see that it’s wrinkled a little bit, I’m gonna make it flat
and then press it open. Since you’re pressing your seams open, seams can be weaker, so you might want to stitch with a slightly lower stitch length like a 1.75 or, I stitch with just a 2.0. If you see anything coming apart, you’ll want to restitch it. But you can see that it’s nice and sturdy. So I’ve got them all pressed, I’m gonna bring my design board on, and I’m gonna again follow my pattern, and I’m just gonna lay everything out. So the fabrics will be catty-corner to each other. So you’re gonna put
your two units together, and make the green touch the green and the yellow touch the yellows so if you put it right here, your seams would not nest. If you put it right together, they will nest. Nesting just means that you’re gonna get a really nice intersection
and so we’re gonna put a pin right there and if you’re a beginner you can put two pins, you
can put one on the left and one on the right. And we’re gonna pin at the very end, pin at the other end, and you’ll see that you just have to
get those points together and of course we’re gonna
pin in each intersection and we’re gonna do that
on all four of our units, and if you feel like your fabric
is moving around too much, you can always add more pins. So let’s get everything pinned, and we will go to our sewing machine. (upbeat music) And here if you’re feeling
like your seams are weak or you need to lower your stitch length, you can definitely do that. So we have our ender
that we’ve left on there and we’re just gonna start stitching using a quarter inch seam. And I’m gonna leave the pin in until the last possible moment on this. And we’ll just keep going. And I can see that’s there
a little bit of green sticking out here, and
I want the yellow to go to the right a little bit, so I’m just gonna manipulate the fabric with my finger to get that to line up. Okay so when I get to the end of one unit and I go to the other, I’m gonna lift this presser foot and put it back down to get
the fabric under my foot. Okay now I’m going to end with an ender, but before I go back to iron, I’m gonna check all of my intersections to see if my points match before I go iron. So I’ll cut them all apart, save this little leader for later, and then I’m gonna look, and that looks nice. I’m gonna check all of these seams. That looks perfect, that looks perfect. And that one looks great,
but we’re gonna pretend that one of these doesn’t
match, we’re just gonna pretend that this one doesn’t match. To fix it, what you will do
is take your seam ripper, we’re only gonna seam rip this
little section right here. So what I like to do is
just seam rip on one side every four or five stitches, I’m gonna show you a little
shortcut of how to seam rip, and again, only this little center you don’t need to do the ends. So you’re just gonna seam rip every couple of stitches, go to the other side, and seam rip on each end and then you can pull
this whole thread out, it’s gonna come right out, it’s gonna just come right
out on the other side. And then you just go to the other side, get your little threads off, and then to fix your seam, just reposition your fabric
right in that intersection, re-pin, and instead of
starting at the end, you can start at that intersection first, so you’ll have to trim your
threads before you do that. And then we’re going to start
in that very intersection. Stitch all the way over, you’re gonna go a little bit
past your previous stitches. And then we’re going to
look, and now it’s perfect, so we will turn it the other direction and sew over it, and by starting in the center, you’re more likely to get a better result than if you start on the end. So now we have all of
these units together, we’re halfway done with our block. You’ll set your seam. Setting your seam just
locks your stitches in place and makes it nice and flat and then we’ll press to one side, any side, it doesn’t matter because we’re gonna press open later so I’d like to get it really nice and flat and put the edge of my
iron right on there, we’re doing the same thing on all four. And then we will press open. (upbeat music) okay, now we’ll turn them over and we’re gonna press this open also, so you will just use your finger, press it open and then just
with the tip of your iron just go down the edge. And you want the back
to look nice and flat with everything flat, you don’t
want anything folded over. ’cause if something is
folded over in the back, sometimes it can show
through to the front. Now you can take your blocks and just make sure they’re nice and flat. If you feel like they’re not flat, you can press them again
before we go to the next step. So here we’re gonna take our blocks and we’re gonna be trimming them down. So we made our pattern where you make your hourglass
units slightly bigger and trim them down because that’s gonna give
you more accurate results. So we’re gonna be
trimming to 6 1/2 inches, which is great because
our ruler is 6 1/2 inches. So here’s our first unit. On rulers, there is
generally a 45 degree angle on one of the corners. This is a Creative Grids ruler so there is one on this corner. And you’re gonna wanna check
that this edge of the ruler matches the edge this point, this one matches this point, that your line is on here, and you can see that
this don’t match exactly so I’m just gonna pull this fabric so that it makes a point. So I’ve pulled that. This matches the point, so all of my 6 1/2 inch match my points, and on Creative Grids, the
best thing about their rulers is that the very center
always has a white line, so that white line is
3.25 going straight in. So again, meets the diagonals, and the center. So what I like to do is
cut two sides at time. I’m gonna cut this side, and this side. Then I will flip it, again we’re gonna line
up at the 6 1/2 inches, and you can see it says 6 1/2 right here. So we line up the 6 1/2 inch line, the intersection, this
intersection needs to move over a little bit, so I’ll just
move that a little bit and then cut. And that is coming out
to a perfect 6 1/2 inches and you can see all of my
points are at the intersection and the back is nice and flat. I’m gonna keep doing
that on all of my units. So first thing again
is this diagonal line. The center white line,
each intersection, cut. And sometimes the first
time you put it down, it will line up, sometimes it won’t, it’s okay to pull your fabric just a tad to make it fit. And so when I turn it, I line up the 6 1/2, point, point, line, white line which is the center. And we’ll do the last two. (upbeat music) So we’re gonna bring on our design board. And we’re gonna lay down our pattern and follow the block placement. And this block can get a little tricky. So we’ve got our pinks
going this direction, and our greens going this direction. But if you turn it, that is not correct because the greens are
going this direction. Now in the end, is it gonna
be the end of the world if you put it in the wrong place? No, definitely not. But if we’re gonna do it
according to the pattern, this is how it looks. And what we’re gonna do is pin before we go to the sewing machine, and with this, it’s
super important to pin, you can’t do this without pinning because you’ve got all
these intersections. So we’re gonna put our
fabrics right sides together, and we’re going to make sure that these two intersections meet up. So the very center of each meet, they will nest, you can kind of feel it. You’ll pin in that intersection. We’re gonna go to the other intersection and pin in this intersection, and here you’ll be sewing
on the straight grain which is really nice ’cause it’s easier to
sew, it won’t stretch, so that’s good, we’ve got all
of the bias out of the way. And again we’re gonna do this one. At the beginning and the end. And we’re gonna go to our sewing machine, keep this in order, and we’re just gonna go
straight down this line and we’re gonna keep this chain pieced so when we come back and iron, they stay together and then you don’t really
have to lay it out anymore. So you’re staring with the leader. You’re gonna bring your block, and this time I’m not gonna remove my pin, I’m gonna leave it in and start stitching. Right before I get to it
then, I’ll pull it out. So it’s more likely to stay in place. And again I’m just keeping my pin in until I get right to it. Take a couple of stitches in between, lift your foot to be able to
put your fabric underneath, start stitching and just pull
the pin out right at the end. I’m gonna put this little scrap, and that’s gonna be my ender. I’m gonna cut this off, and I’m gonna look before
we go iron at my points. So I’m gonna see that this
is a good intersection, this one’s good. This is good, and this is good, and this one is not looking as perfect, so I’m going to leave everything
chain pieced together, and I’m gonna show you how you fix this. So that’s like it may be
an eighth of an inch off. And it’s totally up to you
if you want to fix that. I do, so I’m going to do the same thing, where I just unpick. I’m gonna re-pin that, and sew it one more time. You can choose to be 100% accurate, or less accurate, whatever
your preference is. And that looks much better, so let’s go iron. So I have my pieces together, I’ve still got this chained together, so I don’t have to double
check my work or anything, and this time, we’re gonna set our seams and press toward the green. So I’m gonna press this
one toward the green. And then we’re gonna put these together. So the first thing I’ll
do is I’ll do my ends. So I’ll pin each of my ends. I’m gonna clip my little chain apart, and I’m gonna do poke a pin, this is like my little thing that I do. Okay so I’m gonna take a pin, and I’m gonna poke it
in the very intersection where that stitch is. So I’m gonna poke it through, and when I open it, it’s right in the
intersection where it meets. I’m gonna push that right
through the next intersection, so everything should be lined up. I’m gonna leave this pin in there, and I’m gonna put a pin
on the left and the right and hope that my seams stay together. And I do poke a pin anytime
I’ve got a lot of seams that are going together. So now I can take this out, put two more pins in the center, and we’ve got one last
seem for this block. And this block is getting
a little bit more advanced but just take your time. If you get a little bit frustrated, just walk away from your sewing machine, and come back an hour later
and you’ll be ready to go. So again we’re just gonna start stitching and then remove your pins as you go. So you can see a little bit
of yellow is sneaking out under that blue, so I’m
gonna put my hand under, pull that yellow back and keep stitching just
to keep it straighter. I’m keeping my pins in,
when I get there to the pin I’m gonna lift my foot just a
little bit to keep it going, ’cause I don’t want that
pin to get out of spots so that my intersection stays in place and I’m just gonna keep going. And before we go back,
we’re gonna just look, and oh I’m so proud, all of my little
intersections meet perfectly. So we can just iron our block. So we’re on our final seam. Just set that seam. You can really go to
any side at this point, you’ve got a lot of intersections though, and this can get really bulky, so really finger- pressing
this down will help you get it nice and flat and
then put the iron edge on it. And then, we can trim our block, little slivers off in our next step. Now that we have our block done, I wanna show you something. You’re gonna notice that
all of these intersections are 1/4 inch in, and on your diagram in the quilt pattern, you’re not gonna see those quarter inches, and that is because we just
show your finished block, just like the center. So this is finished. So you’re just not gonna see those edges, don’t let that confuse you, those are just your
quarter inch seam allowance and most patterns are written that way where you don’t see your seam allowance. So you’re just gonna lay
your ruler right on the edge and you will see that your
quarter inch seam is right there, it should touch right there, and you’re gonna trim
just the slivers off, you do not have to do this step. This is just something that I like to do so that I can get any of the
little raggedy threads off, and on this one, luckily
I don’t have very much, but again, quarter inch, trim. And you can also line up
your ruler on the center. So this one is really accurate and you’re seeing that I’m
not trimming very much off, and that’s really because
we made these larger and trimmed them down, which is gonna give you
a more accurate result. I hope you have loved block five, I can’t wait to see your blocks. I would love for you to
tell me in the comments if you like using leaders and enders and what you think of that so that I can know kind
of what you’re thinking and join me next week for block six. And of course, subscribe to the Fat Quarter
Shop YouTube channel, and I’ll see you next week. (upbeat music)

71 thoughts on “Learn How to Make a Quilt – Make Quilt Block 5 – Hourglass Four Patch | Fat Quarter Shop

  1. Hi! It's wonderfull!

    What kind of thread color do you use to seam your patchwork? I ask it, because I observed that you've worked wirh different colors of fabrics.

    Thank you for this nice class!

  2. I wish these videos had been available when I was learning to sew. I learned most of what I needed to know from a Craftsy 2012 BOM by Amy Gibson (love her!) but it didn’t include a ton on finishing so I made a lot of mistakes. 😂 I personally prefer to make QSTs without sewing on the raw bias (similar to the shortcut for making HSTs) but I liked how Kimberly showed how to fix an intersection that didn’t line up properly. I’ve always ripped the entire seam but am gonna try her suggestion going forward! Thank you for the great tutorial!

  3. I call my leader/ender a "mouse". I use one in almost all piecing. It helps to keep the thread nice and neat and, in combination with chain piecing, minimizes thread tails, starting, and stopping.

  4. Kimberly,
    I love this tutorial series on beginners quilt. I am an intermediate quilter but this series has been a learning experience for me. I also want to compliment you highly on how "meticulous" you are in all your quilt tutorials and how your style is perfection. It makes me want to be a "perfect" quilter.

  5. I also use Leaders and Enders.
    And, Kimberly, I wanna thank you for this wonderful series. I'm not a beginner quilter, but I learn something new every week. I love your accuracy and precision. And! Now I am pinning every piece of my blocks. 🎉
    Warm greetings from Hamburg/Germany 🌺

  6. I am never really sure of where or what I'm looking to line up, my fabric or ruler, before I cut. So as a newbie with fabric cutting phobia, I thank you, Kimberly, for being so clear and precise on your tutorials. You've given me the courage to get out of my comfort zone and cut some fabric so that I can start working on a project. 💕

  7. I always use leaders and Enders. I feel panicky about doing this block there is so much to match. Yikes!! But I’ll do my best. Thank you for showing us how to fix the center if it’s off a bit. I’m sure I’ll become an expert in doing that 🤣🤣

  8. Kimberly I want to thank you so much for your tutorials. I am 100% new to this art. Honestly, I could not be doing it without your tutorials. Your instructions and the need to be perfect has given me so much confidence to begin and end all the blocks we have done so far. My blocks are looking great and I know it’s because of the way you are and your teaching. I will definitely be using Leaders and Enders!

  9. Thank you…Fun! I have a dickens of a time matching diagonal seams..even though I have always done it like Kimberly shows…Not sure what happens, but it's like they get pushed away when I sew…I'll try her suggestion of sewing center out when I have to rip and re-sew the seam….

  10. Great video, wonderful refresher for me. I used leaders but not enders. Will be using them from now on. Thank you🧵🧵🇨🇦

  11. Omg 😮 Kimberly! I learned so much on this block. Just when you think there’s nothing else to learn but I’ll realize there’s always something to learn.

  12. Leaders and Enders and Open seams, oh my. I may have to watch this a couple more times before I attempt it, but I will do it. Loved all the tips in this video! How to press seams open was a eureka moment for me and how you ripped out just a few stitches instead of the whole thing? Good grief. I’ve been doing things the hard way for too long. I love this whole video series! I will be using these as references for a long time. Thank you!

  13. Kim you have been so sweet all through this. It really seems like you have enjoyed yourself. You are a great teacher and I am so blessed to have found you. Thanks.

  14. yes, I use the little scraps before and after I sew 🙂 My mom calls them 'spiders' so I usually call them that also. I don't use them on my modern machine but I always use them on my industrial machine and my vintage girls because it keeps them from coming unthreaded, they don't have auto threaders and I have old eyes lol!

  15. Please share why you did not open the seams up for the last two seams. Would the center have been less bulky if you had or not so much?

  16. Thanks for all the details. Learned at least two new things today. One was when you are trimming down your block, to line up the intersections and the other was when your points don’t match, to only redo the points and to start in the middle. Such good teaching. Thanks, again.

  17. Thank you Kimberly for another great video. I always use a leader/spider but never used an ender…just always use the leader again before I start sewing. Will have to try an ender. Thanks for showing how to fix a mistake if points don't match. I've always ripped out seam in that area but never thought of starting from center. Great tip! Now I just have to remember it.

  18. I don't always use leaders and enders UNLESS I'm sewing bias as in this block! I am not a beginner quilter either but have learned to always be teachable. Kimberly, I know you have the gift of teaching and wanted to say BRAVO! keep up the good work 😁

  19. I really like leader and enders because I found my ends don’t get caught up in the machine and the fabric lines up better! Love your tips on picking out and fixing intersections—I would have picked out entire seam to fix. This will definitely save time!

  20. Kimberly,
    Thank you so much for the tips. I have never opened my seams without getting burned. Yay no more burned fingers. I have used a leader to start, but never at the end. You are teaching us all so much. Thank you tons. 😊

  21. GENIUS! I've been using Creative Grid rulers for many years (after seeing them used in FQS videos — then trying one out and loving it compared to others). I never knew the lining up trick to square up quarter square triangles. I've been doing "trim and pray" for "generally good" results. I'm excited to try out this new method!

  22. Loving the series. I have a question, wouldn’t it be better if you use the needle down function so your needle is down when you move the foot to let the pins in?

  23. From one who never used pins or starch, I can't believe I'm admitting to this but I love them both. They make such a difference. I was taught to get it done as quickly as possible and wondered why I wasn't satisfied with the end result. I'm finally learning to take the time for better results and enjoy the process. I have used leaders and enders though. Thanks so very much for all you do for us.

  24. I am an intermediate quilter and I am enjoying this series so much! Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks, especially how to fix the intersection without ripping the whole block apart!

  25. How wonderful is this "Beginner Quilt Series"! I am an advanced quilter/sewer and am following along by watching the videos. Kimberly you deserve a big round of applause for creating this series, with your perfection in details, and the time & patience you are taking in your teaching of this beginner series. You have taken an art form and brought it to people of all ages to learn and experience the joy of sewing, making a quilt, and discovering the creativity they have within. Thank you. You should be very proud.

  26. I love leaders and enders! I sometimes use scrap 2” squares, sewing 2 together, as my leaders and enders. I then make a simple quilt out of them.

  27. Kimberly, without having to go back and watch the past weeks…but, am I confused or was this the first week you've pressed the seams open? Why did you do that on this block compared to all of the others? I'm so anxious to start this series. I'm still in the process of redoing my craft/sewing room so I don't have my machine set up but I'm watching every week so I can keep up with the series. Once my room is done, I'm gonna go back and rewatch and make the quilt. I think I'm going to use other fabric that I have or might need to buy some. The colors you're using just don't appeal to me…but, I'm LOVING this quilt and how you're going to such detail to share with the rest of us this great technique. Thank you!!!

  28. Thank you for this series. Although I can use a sewing machine, this is my first quilt. I am enjoying sewing along with you. I like the idea of the enders. I feel like I use less thread.

  29. I'm really confused why you don't line up your straight cut fabric on the cutting mat inch marking and then using the long edge of the ruler to cut the 7.5". I would worry that I would end up with an inaccurate cut by going 6.5" and then moving the ruler to make the 2nd cut. It also seems more time consuming to do it that way.

  30. It really helps me to see how you are fixing any discrepancies, thank you for that 👍☺️ Take care and God Bless, Chris-Raleigh NC

  31. Thank you so much for your time to show all of this!!!! I learned that the patterns allow for the quarter inch allowance on the outside of the block I didn’t know that. I do love the use of enders it really helps!!!

  32. Just a suggestion: if you have two different 2-1/2" triangles from sewing previous quilts, use them together for your leaders and enders and put them in a box to sew a scrappy quilt to donate. Good idea, huh? That way you have less fabric you throw away and you can make a wonderful quilt for little children in hospitals. Just saying. Piece and blessings, Vicki xoxo

  33. Oh Kimberly, you’re a genius! That tip about when the nesting doesn’t exactly work, ripping out only that section and starting from the NESTING point and sewing outward is BRILLIANT! That will save so much aggravation! Thank you so much! You rock! 🥰

  34. I was watching when you took out your pins when sewing. I saw how close you were to the needle. I tried this. Yeah, I got the best points and matching seams ever. Thanks so much for your great tips.

  35. Cannot tell a lie, I was just going to watch this series. I seem to be one of those people who buy material and just like to a look at it 😂 BUT this is such a good series I got together my fabric and have now just completed block 5 . BIG question, I did a boo boo cut for this block and it comes to 12 1/4 all my points match so can I get away with this?

  36. This is fantastic I've improved so much. Will be subscribing thank you. I mustve missed the rationale for leaders and lenders.

  37. Definitely my most challenging block. Ran into a few problems but thanks to Kimberly's great info on how to rip a seam, it wasn't a issue…lol My new ironing board cover evidently retains heat much better than my last so my pink fabric looked to me like it may have scorched. My husband couldn't see it but it bothered me so I redid the purple/pink…so glad I did! Loving this series as I am learning so much! Thanks FQS!!

  38. i love the DETAILS in all of your tutorials. It's inspiring to think that if i just slow down, be more careful and pay a bit more attention to what i'm doing, i can get closer to a more perfect block, and ultimately, a more perfect quilt. thanks, kimberly, for being meticulous–and sharing your quilt making technique. (p.s. nice to see that you, too, get excited by perfect points… 🙂 )

  39. I like using leaders and enders (and prefer to use them). I was introduced to them as "pigs". I can only guess that's it's because they look like pig tails when they are attached. I love your method of starting to sew right at the intersection when you are not happy with the way a seam lines up and have to unpick and re-sew. I am certainly going to try that next time!

  40. Kimberly, I am Loving this Ultimate Beginner Quilt, even though I'm not a beginner. I have learned so much from You. I always use leaders and enders.

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