Installing Outdoor Landscape Lighting (EASY!!) — by Home Repair Tutor

Installing Outdoor Landscape Lighting (EASY!!) — by Home Repair Tutor


Hey there, I’m Jeff Patterson with Home
Repair Tutor. And I don’t usually wear sunglasses because it’s not normally sunny in Pittsburg,
but it is today. Hey, I’m going to show you how to install
outdoor landscape lighting. So in this video, we’re going to be installing outdoor landscape
lighting—low voltage like this right here—and if this is something you need to do because
your steps or your outdoor space is not well-lit, check out this video. So let’s get started.
For this project, I chose a 200-Watt Power Pack, and you’ll also figure out what size
power pack to use for your landscape lighting. And the reason I chose this size is because
I’m going to be installing a large floodlight, and the output of that is about 50W. I’m
also going to be putting in 4 path lights, and each one of these path lights, the output
is 11W. So 11 x 4=44W + 50W for the floodlight, that’s 94W, and that’s well within the
range of the power pack that I’m holding right here. So 94W is less than 200W, so it’s
good. These power packs, they’ve got terminals
on the bottom, and that’s where you will install the wiring.
In this case, I need to use a hammer drill, like this one here, and set it to the hammer
setting because I need to drill 2 holes into the mortar using the Tapcon drill bit. And
the Tapcon drill bit comes with Tapcons. And the distance between the 2 holes in the power
pack is about 4”. Now it’s much easier to drill into mortar
than brick. Place a mark on the mortar, then measure over the 4” because that corresponds
with the holes on the back of the power pack. Now in this case, I’m using Tapcons. So
a blue Tapcon there. And I’m putting the drill bit in, and I’m setting the depth
of the hammer drill so that it stops about ¼” beyond the total length of that Tapcon.
So I’m drilling 2 holes in. I’m going to stop when the hammer drill stops at the
depth that I need. Now I like using a driver like this one to
drive the blue Tapcon screw into the mortar. And these blue Tapcons are perfect for this
project, that are meant for drilling into cement or mortar, or brick. So I recommend
them if you’ve got a brick siding like I do here. And then you just mount the power
pack. I chose 12/2 low voltage wiring for this project
to prevent voltage drops. Voltage drops cause your lights to dim. I just wanted to avoid
that altogether. So what you’ll do is dig a trench from the
power pack to your first light. And you can use either half-moon edger like I’m using
here or a spade shovel to dig about 1/6” trench for that wiring. You’ll splice the
wire so that it separates by about 2”. And then you’ll strip off the insulation about
¾” of the insulation. You’ll place the bare copper wire underneath
the silver terminal. Spin the wire using lineman’s pliers. And then place the bare copper wire
under the terminal screw and make sure that that insulation does not touch the silver
terminals. Bury the wire leading from the power pack
to your first light, and then just place dirt over it. it’s that simple.
The first light I’m installing is this large floodlight because it projects light up onto
the house and makes the house look awesome at night. The lights have these cable-to-
fixture connectors—there’s a top cap to them, there’s a base like this one here,
and then there’s a contact. There are 2 contacts that pierce the wire.
So what you’ll have to do is slide the wire into the base of the cable-to-fixture connector.
You want to slide it in juts like this so that it’s held flush into the bottom of
the base because what’ll happen is that you’ll screw down the top that has those
wire contacts on them. Those contacts will pierce the cable and allow electricity to
flow to the light. So just double-check that electricity is flowing to the light before
you move onto your next light fixture. Run the cable to the next wire fixture, and
do the exact same thing. Connect the wire to the cable-to-fixture connector. And just
double-check that the lights work. If you have problems tightening the top of
the cable-to-fixture connector, you can use a hex wrench to tighten it down.
So here’s the end result. Here’s what my steps look like at dusk. Pretty sweet,
right? And you can get the same result using these lights.
At the end, you’ll have to bury or loop the cable back to the power pack. Now in this
case, I just put tape at the end of the wire and buried it.
Well there you have it. That’s how you can go about installing outdoor landscape lighting.
I hope that you like this video. If you did, give it a click on the thumbs up button over
on YouTube. That way somebody else can see it and benefit from the video. And if you
haven’t already done so, you can also click on the subscribe button. That way, you’ll
get my videos every single Friday. That’s when a new one comes out especially for you.
And I love doing this stuff. I love DIY. So check out the subscribe button because it
might help you out with the projects you have down the road.
All right. Thanks again. Take care. I hope you have a great day. See you soon.

30 thoughts on “Installing Outdoor Landscape Lighting (EASY!!) — by Home Repair Tutor

  1. Great video but I have to be honest, this type of installation will be fine for couple of months before starts burning bulbs, corroding and wasting so much energy, you need those connections to be water proof, check voltage on every light for proper current. really like the editing on the video. 

  2. The Portfolio lights are very cheap box store product and give quality landscape lighting a bad reputation.  Fixtures are made of plastic and quickly become brittle in the harsh outdoor environment.  With quality path lights, the light source is unseen.  These Portfolio fixtures are called "glare bombs" and cause eye discomfort.  On a side note, the steps need railing to comply with code. 

  3. Very helpful video, I actually just purchased exact same lighting as in video.  Any preference as to series vs. loop wiring?

  4. Nice video, shame not many thumbs up.

    Suggestion, next step make it solar powered with a light sensor activating the lights at  night 🙂

  5. ultimate review.. doing my eagle scout project soon and you're helping me out tremendously. appreciate it.

  6. 3:21 make sure your copper wire doesn't touch each other,between the the terminal our you will trip the breaker, our worse, cause a fire.Better yet have electrician do the wiring!

  7. If you would use spade terminals on the wires you wouldn't have to worry about them contacting each other

  8. You have exposed wire going from the transformer into the earth? I recommend you protect it with PVC conduit—it looks more professional, too.

  9. Hi, does it matter which way the main wire from the transformer is oriented? Is there a + and + side on the wire ? or does it matter? Thanks

  10. I had bought paradise M52731 off of QVC. set of eight lights and only four works that sinks. Mrs
    Jackelyn M Fields .I think that's a poor record.

    .

  11. what the heck is a "power pack"? a power adapter? and what is "low voltage"? 12v? assuming that the power pack is an adapter, why install it outside? I would place it inside the house, and I would also put a 12v breaker on the line to protect the adapter from short-circuiting.

  12. you may like cast brass led landscape path light at very good price

    https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/12V-Outdoor-Landscape-Yard-Garden-Lawn-Path-Light-Waterproof-LED-Lawn-Lamp-Pathway-Lighting-G4-Cast/1381295_32889150501.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.96fd3cc2m2KSPm

  13. You didn't show how you connected the power pack to the main power source!! That's what I wanted to see. Did you just plug it into your power box or did you have to connect wire to wire? But great video! I would like to do something like this in my yard.

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