How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN

How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN

Hi in this video I’ll be thoroughly
explaining how to solder copper pipes they get a nice leak free joint. If
you’re unfamiliar with soldering, you’ll be able to solder any diameter pipe
after this video with ease and peace of mind. There are 3 steps to solder a
copper joint. Step 1 is preparation. preparation is the secret to getting a
leak-free joint. If you skip or half do it, it will most probably leak and
cause damage to your property, so this step needs to be followed very
closely. Step 2 is the actual soldering process which I’ll get into details in
just a moment. And step 3, which is finalizing the joint. With that said
let’s get started. All right, so the first thing I want to go through are the tools
and materials you’ll be needing to complete the task. So tool number one is
a torch. You’ll find a good torch at your local hardware store that should cost
you between 20 to 50 Canadian dollars yes there are better models out there
for commercial plumbers, but if you’re a do-it-yourself doing minor work these
will do just fine. To be able to use your new torch you’ll be needing some fuel.
There are two varieties of fuels for you to choose from.
You’ve got your ordinary propane gas which you can either find in your
camping aisle which should look like this or in the plumbing section at the
store or map gas which should look like this.
The difference between both of these is that map gas burns hotter than propane
which in turn heats up your joint quicker so it’s up to you to choose
which one you want to use. Next up is a lighter for your torch.
If your torch doesn’t have one built-in like this, you can either use a dedicated
igniter which can be somewhat costly or use a $1 BIC lighter like I do. Your pipe
and fitting will need to be cleaned from any surface corrosion or dirt that could
compromise the joint while soldering. To do this, you’ll be needing some sandpaper
or emery cloth for the pipe and wire brushes for the fitting. Something else
you’ll need is some soldering flux or paste. The primary purpose of flux is to
prevent oxidation of the base and filler material, without it soldering is
literally impossible. Here’s what trying to solder with and without flux looks
like. And the last thing you’ll be needing is solder. There are many filler
materials that can be used for soldering copper, but the most two common ones are
lead-solder and lead-free solder. Lead- free solder, which is also known as 95/5,
is what’s used for potable water line. When doing copper drains, lead-solder,
which is also known as 50/50, can be used seeing it won’t come in contact with
anyone. So as I mentioned earlier the video, preparation is key to having a
good leak-free joint. The first step to accomplish this is to clean both parts
that will be joined together. To clean the pipe take your sandpaper and sand
the portion that will penetrate the fitting till it resembles this, as you
can see there’s no more surface spottings and that’s exactly what we’re
looking for. Next is the fitting, you want to use a
dedicated size brush where you’re fitting to get it clean. They most often
arrive clean from the manufacturer but it’s important to get the surface
roughed up a bit just so the solder can adhere better. If you’re a commercial
plumber and are cleaning a large amount of fittings in a day, a cool trick that I
learned is to cut off the tip of these and use them in a drill as such making
the process much quicker and less tiring. With both of your surfaces now prepped
let’s assemble them, but before you’ll need to apply some flux. Applying flux is
pretty self-explanatory, all that’s needed is enough of it to cover both
surfaces that touch just like this. With your flux now applied it’s time for the
actual soldering process which is step 2. Now the goal here is to heat the portion
you want your filler material to be pulled into. There’s a scientific term
for this and it’s called capillary action. Capillary action is the ability
of a liquid to flow in narrow spaces without the assistance of external
forces meaning it will flow upwards which is pretty cool. It’s imperative to
start heating your joint at the bottom first for two reasons. Reason one being
is if you start heating the top first, your solder will want to flow down due
to gravity but won’t have anywhere to go since the bottom of the joint is too
cool to melt the solder, so always start from the bottom and work your way up. And
reason two is as you heat the bottom the heat rises and heats up the top of your
joint as opposed to starting on top which takes longer for the heat to go down.
So keep on heating it up while testing your solder every now and then to see if
it gets sucked in. Eventually your joint will be hot enough to accept your solder
so go ahead and run a nice bead all around the joint to ensure full coverage.
A good tip here is always inspect your joint after soldering it it’ll speak for
itself meaning that if you haven’t correctly heated the joint, you should get
something that looks like this. If this happens, all you have to do is reapply a
bit of flux, heat up the joint and solder the affected area. As a final step, when
you’re sure that your joint is soldered correctly wait a couple of minutes for
it to cool down. Some plumbers will use flux to clean up the joint while it’s still very hot
but doing this could cause a big drop in temperature in very small amount of
time and can fracture the joint causing a leak.
Once your solder solidifies, use a rag to wipe off any excess flux that could
potentially eat up your pipe in the long run and you’re done. If you guys enjoyed
this back to basics video, let me know in the comments down below so I could
add to this series and also what type of topics you’d like to see as always don’t
forget to follow me on Instagram I post content regularly so go check it out and
also follow me on Facebook and I invite you to subscribe to the channel for more
cool upcoming videos thanks again for watching

100 thoughts on “How to Solder Copper Pipe The CORRECT Way | GOT2LEARN

  1. I use acetylene with a turbo torch. Much faster and overheating the joints is less of a problem.
    One thing I would like to add – if the joint starts turning black it is being overheated. Solder will not flow or stick since the flux is burned off. Also, move the torch tip around the joint after starting to heat at the bottom. This helps avoid overheating and pulls the solder in nicely. You should only need minimal solder. If you are sweating 1/2” pipe, you only need about 1/2” length of solder, 3/4” pipe, about 3/4” length of solder.

  2. wow, anybody still uses this outdated method ? lead solder ? seriously ? the flux eating up the pipe ? is this video from a 3rd world country or from the 1980 's ? seriously, i doubt this video is made by a professional at all, anyway not one who can come and do a job in my house.

  3. Extremely thorough. Love the accent! Could have added reaming. Still! Giving away the answer so that others can succeed! Very skilled professional. Thank you.

  4. My only complaints is that you go too fast. But that is ok if you just want a quick crash course.

    My father was a plumber. You covered everything an average joe should know and very well.

  5. Not sure about everywhere else but here in Alabama we can't even get lead solder anymore because it's illegal/against code…old-school plumbers (older than myself) usually have a roll laying around some where because it's great for patch work but highly dangerous/stupid to use on potable water lines

  6. My question is when you do the next joint does it loosen the joint you've already soldered if you get it to hot. Thanks

  7. Excellent video, thank you so I like the brush that you cut off the end and put it in the drill, that is cool.

  8. An idea for a video if you don’t have one already: How to create or move a exterior tap for a garden hose.

  9. as i am soldering right next to joists under the floor i am intending to use pre soldered joints to make things easier…maybe

  10. you are confusing "PREPARATION" which is getting your parts and tools together with cleaning and sanding. As far as " capillary action" goes, it is indifferent to direction: up down right or left, if what you are saying is true then when you are soldering the top of the joint the solder will seep away from the fitting in the upward direction. enjoyed your ego babble while passing gas.

  11. How come North Americans usually pronounce everything the way it is spelled (eg. route) but can't pronounce the word SOL – DER it isn't exactly difficult.

  12. i just got stuck on a job where flexible 1/2" COPPER was used as feed to shut off valves. i tried to connect new sharkbite shut off valves and the flex copper line was too small. asking for advice on how to proceed and finish with pex fittings.

  13. actually the primary function of flux is to help solder follow the flux so when solder melts it can go into the fittings and when soldering you focus on heating the pipe rather than fitting, you apply solder on pipe which then go inside fitting. also try to use flux only on the pipe because if you use flux inside the fittings then when you insert pipe it pushes some flux inside the fittings and solder will go there too which causes pressure reduction due to too much solder deposit inside the joint.

  14. Thanks!

    I was having trouble making a repair on my lawn sprinkler system until I watched this video.

    May you keep teaching the world…all the best to you and your family.

  15. "Brazing joins two metals by heating and melting a filler (alloy) that bonds to the two pieces of metal and joins them."
    "Welding uses high temperatures to melt and join two metal parts."
    It isn't welding. It's brazing.

  16. Great video. Thanks.

    Here is a review of different soldering irons

  17. Yes! Finally the correct pronunciation of solder. Ok. I’m not distracted anymore. Thanks for the awesome vid.

  18. Outstanding video! This is how instructional videos should be made.

    Quick. To the point. Covered the information in adequate detail. And did all of this without any lengthy bullshit introduction or rambling.

  19. Why do you say soldering drains can be done with 50/50 (lead) because it doesn't come in contact with anyone? The leaching lead flows through the pipes into nature or at lease into the water purification installations. And what about the solder vapor?! During soldering, we breathe the lead contaminated fumes? Not very healthy for us and all that lives or grows. If soldering without lead is as good, why not always use lead free, 95/5 solder? Just asking.

  20. I just learned it’s best to first heat the pipe (it will expand a little) and than the ‘joint’ together with ‘the pipe’. The expansion will reduce the air gab (insulator) This way both parts will heat evenly allowing the solder to flow better.

    Trying to heat the whole joint, both parts ‘at once’ by heating the widest part will not work. The air (insulator) makes the pipe heath not as quick and not at the right temperature. One part to hot (and the other not hot enough) will overheat (burn) the solder.

  21. Sir
    Threaded pipe fittings needs welding or not??
    Example: thredolet or threaded pipe coupling
    needs welding or not??
    Please reply me..

  22. I have welded many copper joints in AC business, I have never seen flux put inside the coupling? I would never do this because flux residue could get into the freon line. Really flux isn't required to weld, welded many joints without it but flux can aid in the process of welding to make it a little easier.

  23. Hi…

    I'd like to know if there's a varnish ot other product i could apply on copper plumbing to help the copper keep it's brand new finish / color.

    Beforethe actual soldering, i brush / sand the pipes on their entire length and take care to make beautiful (and good !!!) solder joints… But would like to have the pipes keep their "brand new" finish and prevent oxidation.

    Thank you.

  24. I think what really pulls in the solder is because in that the small space as the flux Boils off (evaporates) it creates a vacuum that pulls in the liquid solder. Big thing I was told when learning to is heat the fitting not the solder. Once the fittings hot enough touching the solder to it will melt the solder then vacuum will pull it in.

  25. Why are you saying “soder”. Who says the “L” is silent? Do Americans call a military man a “sodier”? No, you say “soldier”, so why not say “solder”

  26. I'm a pro and this isn't bad, as far as it goes. Don't try this on pipes larger than 2 inch, without more prep. You want to keep the joint clean, I have sweat joints upside down and backwards at arms length with a mirror. You could also heat the pipe as it's the heat differential between the pipe and the fitting that draws the solder. Don't use Selenium solder, it's weaker, melts at a lower temperature but just don't. Trust me on that. Most importantly, don't try to sweat pipe on a closed system. Yes, I have done it by heating the pipes to pre expand the air so when the rest of the pipe is cooling and keeps the pressure neutral while I sweat a joint, but it's not something I recommend people do. Especially if you are going to test with water instead of air.

  27. Copper drains?? I saw this for the first time ever recently on a very old building but didn't know it was still used.

  28. Hello im coming from high end construction family, don’t know if you actually fallow, Mother working with autocad and making communication water, heat, ventilation, systems.
    Father general builder,
    I am right now working on communication systems water heat plumbing etc montaition. Have some international Europe experience and high end top costumers. Right now I am working and needed some help, after watching your videos loved the idea of making videos. Really inspired. Would love to actually work some time. I am From Latvia. Thanks for reading. Actually it would probably increase your rates tho. Played hockey and been in military, restored catholic school. Just broke 😂

  29. Nice video. It would be better though if you'd slow down some and not talk so fast and allow images to stay up longer and more completely.

  30. Careful!: At 3:12, it looks like he is heating the ell part RED HOT! He's not; it's just some video editing trick to indicate which part is being heated.

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