How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Step by Step Full Tutorial

How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Step by Step Full Tutorial

By a special request I’m going to show
you step-by-step how to screen print spot or simulated process coming up okay
all of my screens are a 230 mesh I’m using you lando TZ emulsion I’ll leave a
link down the scripts in where you can grab this and I am going to use the
sharp side of my scooped coder and I’m going to coat my screens one-on-one I’m
gonna do the garment side players and the side net now I’m going to set it in
the drying rack like this that what the emulsion is pulled down by gravity and
I’m going to repeat that for the rest of the screens is going now that I’m finished with my emulsion
I’m going to put the remaining motion back in the bucket now I’m gonna take
this over to the wash out for this and just give it a good rinse okay while our screens are drying here
is the artwork that we are going to print this was a little design that I
put together I’ll leave a card up at the tops that way you guys can take a look
at the tutorial and how I design that so the artwork is flattened the image size
is to print size it is 12 by 15 at 200 dpi anywhere from 200 to 300 dpi is
great 200 will save you a little bit of file space so we’re going to bring this
over to separation studio I’m going to open that up real quick okay here is the
image that we are using I am and I am in separation studio and as you can see
here it basically breaks it down to about 9 different colors some of these
colors we will not use for example there’s no information on the green but
we’re going to go to the proof-positive here and we are going to go to channels
we’re going to merge the purple and we are going to merge the turquoise we are going to see what is on the green
doesn’t look like there’s anything there nothing to get excited about so I’m just
going to delete that and now we’re down to six colors our pres has six colors so
that’s absolutely perfect I’m going to hit Auto adjust here I’m just going to
make these Reds really bright some of these yellows and these whites bright as
well so we’re good to go on that in our artwork is all separated out I’m going
to go ahead and save this as an EPS which generally it just does save it as
an EPS I’m going to save this to the desktop for the sake of this tutorial
and going back looking at each of these layers you can see all the colors that
is involved in creating this design let me go back to my ink view so this is our white our white base this
is our red this is our blue our gold our gray and then our white top or white
highlights so now that that saved out I’m going to bring this into my template
which I’ll leave a link down in the description as to where you can buy this
template from us it’s ready to go so you don’t have to fuss with the template has
registration marks and all that which all these registration marks will show
up on every single one of these spot colors so here is our artwork I’m going to
place it on my art layer here and then I’m just going to Center or line it it
looks a little goofy here that’s because this will be going on a black t-shirt if
I jump back over to separation studio you can see that my ground color is
black so whatever’s black in here is actually going to be the t-shirt showing
through now I’m going to bring this layer down because it is a pretty big
print I’m gonna lock my art layer and then I’m going to move my registration
and center marks up and down a couple moves couple two or three moves just get
it out of the artwork okay so now that’s ready to go
I’m hit command P to print and when I go to output we have separations all
selected here and with separation studio it basically brought in all the spot
colors we have our our white base red blue gold gray and white it gives you
the number and what sequence you need to print us at so we’ll do the white base
first flash that and then we’re gonna do the rest of colors wet-on-wet
the red the blue and the gold grains and the white in that sequence and you can
see over here when I brought the art and it did bring in all these spot colors so
I’m going to go ahead and make sure that we’re only printing those six spot
colors so I’m gonna go ahead and hit print and we’ll show you the film coming
up and before I get too far ahead of myself I am using accurate black pearl
that is what we are sending it to so it’s sending the art over to accurate
black pearl which sends it to our Epson 1430 the settings that we are using is
45 LPI and we’re using 230 mesh screens okay our first piece of film is coming
out and here it is finishing up you can see the little half pounds in
this design and now all we have to do is wait for our other five piece of the
film to come out while these films are printing out the
screens are drying once the films are finished the screen should just about be
dry and then we’ll go to the exposure unit okay all of our films are finished
all six are out put the film that we use here is 13 by 19 waterproof inkjet film
they cost around 57 cents apiece I’ll leave a link down a description where
you guys can get that and save yourself a little bit of money on film okay our
film is all finished let’s see if our screens are dry they look dry to me so let’s grab our
film and expose all six of these screens let’s do it okay here’s the first screen that we’re
going to expose let’s go ahead and do our white base first you want to make
sure you do the tacky side down so I’m just going to Center that up in the
middle of my screen and it takes some scotch tape just secure that down we’re
going to flip this over going to lock our exposure unit lid down I think I’ll
set this one at about 310 and hopes that we can retain some of those smaller
details make sure I hit enter turn my vacuum on and then I’m going to expose
it once this screen that’s finished
exposing I’m going to take it stick it in the washout booth grab another screen
and a piece of film stick it on the exposure unit start the exposure process
and then I’m going to wash out the current screen that’s exposing what that
will do is speed up the process and you can wash it out a screen while the other
screen is exposing a little bit of a tip for you what that way when the emotions go out it
will fall out evenly that way you’re not watching out your
halftone now starting to fall out
and the new credit one now I’m going to give it a quiz but on the outer edge just to let water
kind of she’s down and rinse away any of the unexposed emulsion or emulsion that
I just rinsed out now we’re going to take this and set it in the Sun let it
dry and then we’re gonna rinse and repeat literally I’m gonna set this
thing in the Sun and let it post Harden and it also will help it dry a little
faster another little quick tip for you pull up
and today one of the things you want to do with spot process is be sure to check
your film and compare it to your screen looks great let’s proceed the things you
want to be sure to do is include the name of the color and your output on
your film that way you have it in your screen and it will make setting up your
job that much easier be sure to check your glass after every exposure and make
sure it is clean if you need to take some more Windex and paper towel and
wipe it down so that way you don’t end up with pinholes and your screens okay I
just washed out the last expose image on our screen so I’m gonna set it out into
the Sun let them dry as soon as those are finished drying we’re gonna go on
press and get these out today so let’s do it the inks that we will be using for
this job it’s just a standard red a mono blue a golden yellow gray which this
grey is a will Flex spot process cool grey but I ran out of that long time ago
and I just made a custom mix that was similar to it it don’t have to be
spot-on guys and then we’re going to use our standard will Flex epic amazing
bright white underbase and white highlight or white top quick a little
tip you do not have to have these spot colors
that are associated with separation studio the only time I really use the
spot colors is when I’m doing some sort of flesh tones everything else I use
whatever color I feel like putting in there that way I can make it a bright
blue a bright red a bright yellow of right turquoise where the case may be
you do not have to have the spot colors that separation studio says that you
need experiment with it a little bit with you what I’m doing at this moment is
preheating my palate and they’re not going to put a test t-shirt on it do my
first print register the rest of my screens off of it and ink them up once I
feel that the registration is pretty spot-on run my test print see how it
looks with simulated process you have to do a handful of test prints before it
really starts working out correctly what I like to do is take my white base lie
on my screen up with my center marks that I have drawn on the pallet I use my
Center marks from the template that I have created which you guys can go and
grab I’ve Center my screen here make sure my center lines are nice and
centered nothing lock that down give a little bit of wiggle looks like
it move just a touch I’m gonna use my micro registration get
back to where it needs to be make sure everything is nice tight so it doesn’t
move during the printing process now I’m going to eat my street always be sure to
stir your ink up really well that way it will kind of help loosen it up kind of
break down those molecules a little bit and then I’m going to take a healthy
amount and load my screen up making sure I’m not pressing the ink in the image
area now what I’m going to do is I’m going to take a blank t-shirt the test
t-shirt you can use a test pal on hell on or whatever it’s called however I
happen to have this shirt laying around sometimes we get extra shirts because
sometimes we just need to order a couple extra shirts in order to meet that $200
mark did get free shipping so I got my test shirt loaded up I’m going to flood
my screen this is my white base and I’m gonna give it about two or three good
solid hits one flood two or three good solid hits just to completely clear the
mesh here is our white base so now I’m going to go ahead and flash this base
and then we’re gonna come back and register the rest of the screens up
based on these registration marks now that everything is nice and flash
I’m gonna take my finger make sure my registration marks are cool now I’m
gonna take each one of these screens and go through and line up my registration
marks in each one of my screens and make sure everything is nice and registered
up so you find your way back okay I’m
pretty happy with how all these screens are looking let’s go ahead and ink them
up and run some tests friends okay have my screens all inked up now
what I’m going to do is I’m just going to flood each of these screens and then
do a good solid push print on each one of these and then we’ll see where these
marks all line up and how things are starting to look keep in mind that you
will have to do maybe three four five sometimes six four things we’ll start
looking right there’s our first hit of red I’m gonna
do these wet-on-wet our first hit of blue per city yellow first to the gray now we’re going to do
our white on top okay so here’s our first little test
print obviously it’s looking a little faded however it will start to look
better as we do more and more test prints so what I’m looking at is my
registration marks and they look pretty good I don’t think I’m going to make any
changes I’m gonna roll with it as this I’ll get a little bit of a close-up as
you can see our registration marks are looking fairly spot-on let’s go check these out down towards
the bottom air things pretty bang on you see it is looking a little faded and
the reason being is that was our first time around so some of the egg is
picking up on the back of the screen as we do more test prints you can get the
true amount of beat the possibly on to the shirt some of these colors will
start to mix a little more you’ll see somewhat of a change here a little bit
you can see not the the red and completely wasn’t
clearing the screen I like to play it on the safe side and just do one hits that
way I’m not putting down too much ink and closing up some of those dots that
don’t need to be closed up so let’s go ahead and do some more test brings I
went ahead and flash this so nothing coming up let’s take this shirt when you turn it around going to take my white bass and guys
keep in mind as you are handling these screens you just want to do it fairly
gently you don’t want to whip the screens back and forth you can knock
them out of registration so I’m going to go ahead and let this up give it a
couple two or three hits so it clears you also notice some of these tiny
little dots will start showing up that haven’t been there before I’m going to
go ahead and slash this real quick looks like we’re all nice and flashed
now let’s go through the process again I’m going to flood my red give it a good solid hit there we can see the Reds starting
to show up a little brighter and you want to handle this almost like an
automatic would good firm press really digging in somewhat upright maybe
closer to 45 and you just almost want to be automated
and how you’re doing this print be consistent it the more consensus
consistent you are the better this is going to look here is test print number
two you see the color is a little brighter starting to get some of the
sandy kind of look mixing in the background some more just looking pretty
great you’re going to go ahead and flash this and we might do one maybe two more
I’m just going to use the inside of this shirt so I’m going to slip this dude inside
out now we’re going to use the inside of
this shirt you notice you don’t see any of the ink
coming through on the inside of the shirt you just want to lay your eat on
top of the shirt you want to press it through the knit going to flood it up make sure we’re completely clearing the
mesh going to flash it make sure it’s nice and flashed
remove my flash out the way for the burn my palette up you fan it off a little
bit now let’s go ahead and do the whole sequence again there’s our red here’s our blue here is our yellow art gray last but not least our white
highlight for our white top look at that that’s just starting to come together
looks like we’re just about off to the races guys it’s looking pretty good
the only issue I see is a little bit of white sticking out right here however if
I bump that too much you might throw me out of registration so it could just be
a fact that my palettes are warped these things are concave it’s time to replace
them but to me this is acceptable all right we’re just gonna flash here this and take it off the pallet and then we’re going to print last but
not least on the other side make sure our skirt is nice and flat going to do my white bass this time I
might just take two hits looks like it cleared two hits now things starting to
flow through the mesh I’m gonna go ahead and flash this okay I flashed it for about a good six
to eight seconds really wasn’t keeping account with that I know that generally
for a fact that’s what I tend to do I’m gonna go ahead and do our red we’re going to do our blue again
somewhat of an upright printing position really push that eat through there you are with our gray last but not least our white top and there we have it I believe we are
ready for production let’s take a closer look okay this is test print number four
looking pretty dope see all the chrome would not inside the motorcycle we got
our kind of desert background going here pavement overrode our Eagles looking
pretty cool everything is looking great now it’s time to tape off these
registration marks and then we’re gonna go to town on these t-shirts so I’m
gonna grab my masking tape I’m gonna pull my flash over above the pallets and
while I’m taping these things off I’m gonna let that flash sit there and
you’re going to rotate these pallets underneath the flash allowing them to
warm up well I’ll take some tapes it’s hard doing this one-handed and holding
the camera so I’m gonna take my tape unit tape each one of these marks off
once I get finished with this screen I’m gonna rotate the next pallet underneath
the flash that way it will warm them up and we’ll make my tack sticky again be
sure to check out our link here to a video on how to rejuvenate the tack and
remove the lint from your pallets so I’m gonna go ahead and I’m gonna take care
of that and take the recipes off I need to put this camera down as I’m still warming some of these
pallets up check out the e that builds up on the back these Springs and this is
what you want really and truly you want to eat the build up on the back of the
shirt sometimes you may need to flash in between colors because not every job is
the same this is our base
take the pellet here’s our red there’s nothing that’s
going to be built up on there so that our second color after flashing so
here’s our blue you can see the red building up on the back of that rotates
pallets so here’s our yellow you see the red and
the blue built up on the back pallet rotation here’s our grand you can see the yellow take us again and then here’s our lime
you see all four of those colors on back cattle red or blue or yellow or gray and
that’s just part of doing spot processed this is almost like simulated product
our excuse me CMYK but we’re using opaque ease and
they just kind of stack on top one another and they blend a little bit
that’s what you want is you want the eats
to blend and whatever you do do not touch the bottom of these screens after
you’ve got everything all set up and you’re getting things going because it
will just completely make a mess of your friend while I am warming up Lee’s Palace I’m
going to take a look at our last test friend and make sure that we do not have
any pinholes that are noticeable chin will be at the other end
stacking shirts and at this moment this would be a good time to see if there are
any obvious pin holes in the shirt that we may want to just go ahead and tape
off so that seems like a little something here looks like white this may be another pinhole here that
looks like Lin that one doesn’t seem to be rubbing off
so to me that looks like white might be another little pinhole here aside from that after our first couple
of prints we’ll keep an eye out for pinholes and if they do have in the show
we’ll use a blowout gun we’ll take care of those and there it is right there
you see that there’s a little pinholes so we’re going to take that off let’s
see what else we have and that just might be laughs you know but I think I’m
gonna toss a little tape up over here
you see if we can’t catch that and I think we’re good for now Shannon
will definitely let me know if there’s any pinholes okay I use my method to
remove the lint from the pallets rejuvenating the tack as I said before
you see they’re gonna be up here here be sure to check out our video on how to do
that using a water-based pallet any social this is nice and tacky this
palace started to get more which is what we want okay it’s time to go into
production guys okay it is production time
I’m going to load my shirts up there’s multiple ways that you could go about
doing this however I prefer to do it this way I’m going to load my shirts up
let me go underneath the flash that will get rid of any moisture in the t-shirts
they’ll also help shrink the shirts up a little bit it’s that way when I do go to
lay my base my colors will still they’ll still be spot on and the other way you
could do is you could load a shirt up print the shirt with your base
rotate it underneath the flash and as that shirt comes around you do your
colors on top unload that shirt load a new shirt hit your base rotate it and do
the next shirt with your five colors on top of that white face however I like to
do it this method because if I were do the loading the shirt
hitting the white bass doing the six colors taking it off loading a shirt
doing the bass what happens for me is the pallets tend to cool down and they
lose their tax so this is the method I like to do alright so we’re gonna do our
white bass on all six of these shirts and as soon
as that first shirt that I just printed comes around I’m going to do my six
colors on top of that and then unload my shirts and rotate the pallet as I print
them and I’ll show you guys what I’m talking about and what that will do is
allow the pallets to sit underneath the flash a little longer keeping them warm
keeping the tack nice and tacky central so just keep an eye out make sure that
you’re completely clearing your base sometimes two hits works just fine I’m
probably going just a little too fast which is why I’m needing to do it for a
third time all right here we are in our first shirt I’m going to go ahead and
hit my red now one of the things I’m gonna have to do
I could either sidestep but so I don’t have to adjust the camera I’m just going
to move my flash out of the way generally out with sidestep for that
first shirt here’s our blue our gold yellow our grave and our highlight white now it looks
pretty awesome now I’m going to send this downline shams going to take a look
at it or any pinholes now I’m going to move my flash back like I said I
generally would side steps so I don’t have to do that and it’ll speed things
up so let’s go through all these shirts we’re gonna do our red and as you start
to work on this job you’ll become more efficient with your printing you’ll be
faster and you’ll get into the groove so to speak so at a rate doing shirts like
this I can do on a good day about 80 slow down I’ll do about 45 hours I found like Shannon may have found a
pinhole getting guys be somewhat machine like
firm consistent press chance I got perhaps a 10-10 whole issue going on as soon as I get done doing this last
shirt now we’ll take a look at it and we will fix any of those issues shirt number three and I’m having to step around this
camera so it’s making me just a little slower you guys are right here I read I believe controlled in yellow Gregg and keep in mind guys that these
are all 230 mesh screens 45 LTI doing the wide base and the rest of the five
colors wet-on-wet here we are in shirt number five it’s easy squeegee with these bigger
designs kind of it’s in the way a little bit golden-yellow be consistent and as you
go just keep firm pressure on both sides of the squeegees and the middle will take care of itself shirt number five last but not least
shirt number six golden-yellow be consistent got our gray
just helps blend the the base and your highlight okay let’s do a little bit of a closer you can see how these colors are just
certain blend here and they tell this motorcycle are getting some nice chrome
details going on here here’s our road the hard highlights of this road but
looks pretty awesome what do you think Shannon she giving it the shop numbs
thumb up of approval I think that about covers at this time
don’t you think thanks for tuning in don’t forget to subscribe give this
video a thumbs up leave a comment even if it’s just a Hello as always don’t
forget we are an official rep for cast fit productions so use our promo code
Micha designs if you’re in the market for screen printing supplies or
equipment that will help support our channel and help us to continue making
videos such as these Phil next time guys I’m going to ship these shirts out of

100 thoughts on “How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Step by Step Full Tutorial

  1. Great job Mikey, I like how professional you are and how you really make sure you do it perfectly everytime. Great channel!

  2. This is amazing, probably the best video I saw about screen printing method. I had no idea you can do things like that and was looking for thermal press method. But how cost efficient is that really? I mean if You would sell these shirt, how much would you ask for 1 piece?

  3. Where I can find auto adjust tool? In my separation studio I dont have it on top as in this video.

  4. Curious, when you exported the artwork as an eps, did it convert your art into vector halftones? Or is it just an image? Thank you, this video is great!

  5. I thought the breakfast club video was about to start your intro music sorry I’m new to your channel lol

  6. how do you see the registration marks after you flood the screen? or does the printing machine locks itself into a position where you adjusted the marks before? if so what can you recommend to do if i don't have one of those fancy machines? other than that this video solved all of the questions that are on my mind about screen printing, great vid mate!

  7. I apologize for the basic question but how do you get different shades of the colors ? When you push each color how do the colors perfectly go to their spot instead of solid colors going on top of one another ? I just don’t get how one color doesn’t cover the next color completely. Thanks

  8. Ya'll have it soooo easy. When we did index separations, it wasn't with a plugin. We had to use Multi-Channel DCS files and make them by HAND. Boy, what I would've given to get my hands on that system!

  9. Just revisited this video and it's still great… I have a question about the wet on wet, does the print end up getting muddy as you go from the build up on the bottom of the screens? If not, why not? If so how do you handle that? LOL

  10. That was some good work I'd like to get into work like that I would like to see some of my drawings on shirts it would make my day good job

  11. Can I do this at home? I started screen printing with the supplies from hobby lobby but I want to get on this level on screen printing

  12. Good stuff!!!! I just attempted my first screen press
    Still got alot to learn so glad I found you ch…. New Sub here

  13. I am totally amazed! You made it look so much more easier then some other videos I have watched! Thanks dude!

  14. Very cool. I’ve made some very high resolution artwork. How do I need to export it for a printer to use it? I received a test print from a company and it is hideous. I appreciate the help.

  15. Hi, I have a question…Why you use ACCURIP to print? What happen if you print direct to the printer… Also I have one of those old EPSON 1200….is this printer good for positives and ACCURIP ??
    Thanks…Michael from Los Angeles

  16. As an artist who has done comic characters for T-shirt’s I never realized how involved the process actually
    is? This is great to see. So much respect!

  17. Does anyone know: Can you reuse the same screen with the same design over and over and over? Does the emulsion start to deteriorate over time? What type of cleanup for long term storage is involved with the screens, after the job is done? Thanks!

  18. This is the 2nd time that ive viewed this. I understand it more and feel comfortable enough to start buying what i need to get started right away. I've been researching and learning for about 6 months or so.

  19. Great videos man! I noticed you use Photohshop and others use Illustrator. I was always told Illustrator was best for vector art. If you dont mind me asking, why do you use Photoshop??

  20. Awesome Video!!! So would I need separation studio and a RIP program to do this? Those programs seem to really make that pretty smooth and fast. Any way that you can think of that would be possible to achieve that without buying those programs? I've just spent so much money on everything else.

  21. Why don’t you get a dip tank with only clean water and set the exposed screen in there. That way it doesn’t get further exposed by uv light while waiting to be rinsed. Once the next screen is done being taped and set to expose the one in dip tank is soft and ready to rinse out with better definition than with the agitation of the water hose.

  22. Dude invest in a tri lock system from M&R if you cannot afford a direct to screen unit. Will save you time on set up.

  23. Respect for putting this together bro. You are teaching a couple basic mistakes here tho. If your registration had been off on that first print it would have been a pretty big deal… running the registration print wet on wet. The trailing ink behind your push is a problem too. Awesome to see you pushing, so many people teach the pull but it just isn't practical on a commercial level. You need to cut the ink so you can get a nice clean push with no trailing ink. You seem to be pushing to the point of bending the squeegee too. It's not about pressure as much as angle. Imma sub ya, (cause you're a straight-shooter) and catch up. Great Job!

  24. Hey brother!! You've taught the whole process very nicely.. However I've some questions regarding the alignments.. I am completely new to this screen printing stuff so it might be silly questions to you but it is what it is 😅

    1. Alignment of Transparency film to the screen : How do I perfectly allign transparencies to the blank screens??

    2. Alignment of both rotatory panels : Everytime you rotate the platen panel and the screen panel, how did you get those registration marks all aligned with each other with each and every print. To make myself more clear : After you printed the white underbase, you rotated the screen panel for other colors and each time you got everything in perfect alignment without any deflection. How can it be done??

    Sorry for the silly questions 😅😅
    Great video btw 👌👌🙏

  25. i was looking into the DTG and heat transfer systems scared me off at over 25,000 to start. Whats the equipment prices averaging for this type of system? Its changed a lot from when i first did this type in high school…lol

  26. I really don understand how do u get the silver colour.. How do that? And the fading colour.. I really need ur help man.. Ure amazing

  27. Seriously, the BEST video I've seen yet. Very detailed and informative and not confusing or boring. Answered a lot of my questions!

  28. My man props to you, Love your production method cycling through steps to have no down time and as a darkroom guy for 40yrs dealing with pin registering images to composite print photographs I think it's time to get back to t-shirt art as a side gig just a bit more production able than hand painting them.

  29. The ink cost was also one of my concerns I have a sublimation printer and the ink is expensive so I assumed it would be very expensive for DTG

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