How to Refine (Lengthen/Shorten) Crotch Length with Sure-Fit Designs™

How to Refine (Lengthen/Shorten) Crotch Length with Sure-Fit Designs™


Hi everyone, I’m Glenda with Sure-Fit
Designs. Some of you know me as Glenda the Good Stitch. In this video tutorial
I’d like to talk about refining the crotch curve on your pants pattern and
now what I want to do is I want to show you how to measure that crotch curvature
and make a determination if you may need to make any changes to it. Now this is
prior to you actually sewing your muslin up. Your muslin being your test pant
pattern. You never ever want to go to a good piece of fashion fabric before
you’ve tested and make sure that you’re happy with the fit that’s resulting from
your Sure-Fit Designs body blueprint and so we’ll just take a look at the pattern
sample that I have up here on the wall and basically I’ve drawn off the pattern
for my body shape and size. I have a thirteen and a half inch long back
crotch curvature and so when you’ve got your pattern drawn, and to this stage, and
before you do your test sewing let’s just make sure that you measure this
crotch curvature and that it is the length that you think you need for your
body. And so the most accurate way to measure a curvature is to stand the tape
measure on edge and do what is called walking the tape measure around the
curvature and so as I come around to that crotch point extension 2, this is
13 and 5/8 of an inch long. It’s actually one eighth of an inch longer than what I
think I measured. Now when I say it I think I measured, its because when you
have that waistband around your body and you’re measuring from center front
around through the center back you know your body shifts and moves, your skin
moves and so that eighth of an inch may not make any difference whatsoever and
so in a situation like this if it’s about an eighth to a quarter of an inch
shorter or longer than what you think you measured, I would
leave the crotch curvature exactly as it is. But if there is a big difference,
meaning more than a quarter of an inch, then you have to kind of look and say,
What should I do about that? And I might be asking, Well, why did that happen if
I’m very accurate in marking things off? It’s just an anomaly of the master
pattern depending on the relationship between your waist and your hip
measurements so you might expect a little bit of variance like that. But
let’s say you’ve got a half an inch and maybe it’s a half an inch too long. What
are you going to do to remove a half an inch? Well you’ve got two places to
remove it. You can remove at the waistline, or you can remove at crotch
point number two. And so if you think you’re what I would call normal you
might want to take a half an – excuse me, you might want to take a quarter of an
inch off at the waistline and a quarter of an inch off at the crotch point and
call it good for your test. But if you’re particularly short in your body and
perhaps very long in the shelf maybe what you want to do is leave the shelf
length that little half-inch longer at that point, but take the half inch off up
here. So in essence, you’d be shortening that
crotch length to fit how you measured yourself initially. And if you’re very
long in the torso, the opposite thing could happen is you might need to add a
little bit at crotch point number two or at the waist point. It all again depends
on your torso. Now where you’re going to find instructions for doing this is in
your Pant Kit instruction book and it’s on page 10 up at the top here. It’s how
to refine your crotch curve before you get into testing in the muslin stage. So
if you’ve enjoyed this video and I hope that you have, please make sure that you
join our Sure-Fit Designs community and you can do that in three easy steps.
Number one make sure you sign up for the newsletter and when you do that there’s
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we have an international community that you can join at facebook.com/groups/surefitdesigns I know you’re going to love
participating in that. Thanks for watching.

9 thoughts on “How to Refine (Lengthen/Shorten) Crotch Length with Sure-Fit Designs™

  1. hi i was wondering how you would know whether you need to lengthen crotch curve or do a big tummy adjustment. i didnt know that was a thing. is it the same thing?

  2. hi mam…IMPORTANT QUESTION…

    first of all thanks for your wonderful explaination…
    my QUESTION is… :
    crotch riser is in the arc line form… and we measure it in the arc length form only and not in straight line manner…
    so how to calculate it that how much this crotch point must be exactly below the belt line
    ie how to calculate VERTICAL DISTANCE from belt to the crotch center point in vertical straight form… as it is in the arc form… ???

  3. Hi Glenda this video was very informative thanks. However could you do an actual shortening of crotch video with an actual pair of pants?

  4. Hi Glenda. I made a muslin in my sewing class for my pants. When I finished the project at home and tried it on, the waistband did not fit and it was tight all around the rear. Is this a crotch depth issue or something else?

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