Hey guys! We’re Evan and Katelyn. In this video we’re going to go over part one of our garage series: how to patch, repair, and paint your walls. Let’s go! Before we could fix our walls we had to clear them off and get rid of things so that we could actually reach our walls. Which is good because we had stuff we’ll never use again. So we ripped off the old shelves and pegboards, and took a good look at our sad, sad walls. To fix them we had to patch holes, re-tape peeling corners, and paint; so we’ll just take this one step at a time. For things like nail and screw holes that were smaller than a finger, we uses spackle, a 150 grit sanding block, and a putty knife. Having two knives makes it easier because you can use one to scrape spackle off the other. First scrape or sand the hole clean, and wipe it off with a paper towel. Then get a small amount of spackly on your putty knife and press it into the hole, dragging the knife across it to smooth out the surface. Tiny holes are pretty easy unless you have 200 billion of them like we did. So much patching. For holds up to six inches you’ll need a drywall patch, joint compound, a poking device, a 150 grit sanding block, and a bigger putty knife with some bend to it. Again having two knives is easier. To patch a medium sized hole, first scrape away any loose bits, then sand with a 150 grit sanding block and wipe off any dust. Choose a patch that overlaps an inch or two past the edge of the hole and press it firmly against your drywall. Then apply a thin layer of joint compound over your patch starting in the middle and feathering it out over the edge. Midway through we found that a more bendy spackle knife made this part way easier. After it dries fully, sand down any ridges, wipe it down again, and repeat with another layer of joint compound, making sure to feather it out past the edge of your original application. Most people do three coats but two worked for our garage. For holes larger than 6 inches, like this big thing, you’re gonna have to cut around the hole and pop it a new piece of drywall. You’ll need a drywall piece, a pencil, a drywall knife, a utility knife, mesh drywall tape, a power screwdriver, screws, a 150 grit sanding block, joint compound, and putty knives. Also a yardstick will help if you’ve got one. Cut a square in the wall around the hole. Drywall can be found in two by two foot pieces so we traced that and cut a two by two foot square. If your hole is smaller, cut down your drywall piece to fit. Use a utility knife to score along the line, and a serrated knife to cut through the drywall. Then you can remove the piece you cut or punch through it, or punch through it. JK, don’t really do that. You’ll have a rough edge around your cut, so sand and wipe it down. If there aren’t studs behind your hole, attach a 1 by 4 inside your wall and screw your drywall patch to that. We had visible studs, so we used those. Pop your drywall piece snuggly into place and screw it into your studs or 1 by 4. Then use mesh drywall tape to go over the edges of your square, and spread joint compound over your taped edge just like we did for the patches earlier, feathering away from the tape. When dry, scrape down any edges, sand, wipe it down, and repeat. Next we turned our eye to the corners. Where two walls meet, drywall corner type is used to cover the seam. Our walls has the cheapest type and it was peeling off in several places. Here’s what we used to fix it: a utility knife, measuring tape, 150 grit sanding block, spray adhesive, drywall corner tape, joint compound, and putty knives. First remove old tape with the utility knife. Then sand the area and wipe off any dust. To attach the corner tape, we use a spray adhesive made for the purpose. The corner tape comes in the role, so measure and cut off the amount you need. Fold the tape along the crease and snip the top at 45 degrees if it’s butting up against the ceiling. Once the adhesive tacky, press the tape into the corner and smooth it into place. When it’s dry, apply joint compound over the tape and feather the edges, y’all know the drill. Finally the satisfying part! After patching up so much of our walls that we wondered, would tearing them down and starting over be easier? It was finally time to paint! Here’s what we used: spray primer, a 150 grit sanding block, paint, a pour spout if you want to get fancy, paint roller covers, an angled brush, paint trays, and paint rollers. Plus this big thing to brush dust and cobwebs off our wall. First go over rough patches with your sanding block, then use a broom to brush off dust. Prime over any dark paint or water damage. The paint we got does have primer in it, but we wanted to be extra sure nothing blood through. For paint, we used off-the-shelf white Behr Ultra Premium Plus and a satin sheen so it would be easy to clean. We rolled over the walls and cut in around the edges with an angled brush. Side note if you have to paint over a few days like we did, wrap your rollers and brushes tightly in foil and keep them in the fridge overnight. They don’t dry out and you can get back to painting the next day. We painted the door too, it was in bad shape. Oil-based paint works great for the trim but not so much for the door. How do you feel about this door baby? absolute failure, this is horrible. We just couldn’t get it smooth. We’ve never used oil paint before. It got better as it dried but it was a learning experience. After the door we just had to get one last hard-to-reach spot. Yay! After starting with a yellow, full of holes, hot mess of a garage, it is pretty sweet to look around and see smooth white. Now I feel better. So fixing our walls was a big undertaking but totally worth it. And now we have a clean slate so we can revamp our storage systems. So check out our next video if you want to see how we turn our little two-car garage into a workshop using smart storage. And thanks for watching! Bye! Oh my God! Herr derr derr, do tha thing. Hrmmm we’re done!