How to make repeating patterns by hand and upload to redbubble for sale-part two

How to make repeating patterns by hand and upload to redbubble for sale-part two


Hello friends! It’s Kat, from Meow Meow
Kapow. If you haven’t already watched the first
part of this tutorial, where we learn how to make a repeating pattern by hand, I’ve
linked it up in the i-cards. You’ll probably want to check that out first so you’ve got
a design to work with, but hey, you do you! If you want to Benjamin Button these instructions
I welcome it. I’ve also linked any materials down in the
doobly-doo, which is really just the tablet I use. A few years ago I needed a new tablet
to replace my over ten year-old Wacom that FINALLY kicked the bucket. I actually bought a couple of budget tablets,
but had to return them because they either didn’t function the way I wanted them to,
or just straight up didn’t function. After attempting to pinch my pennies, I learned
the same lesson I’ve learned with pretty much every art supply-if it costs less, it’s
usually going to cost you more somehow. Either because you spend more time on malfunctions,
or because you spend more money buying multiple cheap things. So if you’re looking for a good tablet that
works out of the box and will last a darn long time? I recommend Wacom over and over
and over again. There’s a reason they’re king in the tablet game. Anywho! After you’ve got your design drawn
out on paper, you’ll need to scan it in. I’m using a somewhat well-aged Mac on a
slightly older operating system, so you might not have the exact programs that I have, but
hopefully you have something similar. There are plenty of ways to import images
from a scanner, but I prefer to use the built-in program called “Preview” on my mac. If
you already have something else you like to use and are comfortable with, go for it! I
don’t have the world’s greatest scanner, but it gets the job done. When I import an
image, I usually set the resolution to as high as it will go, which for this machine
is only 600 PPI, but that’s still twice as much as the standard 300 DPI that images
are usually printed at. If you’re going to end up printing whatever you’re scanning,
it’s usually better to scan it in at a really high resolution because then you can scale
the image to be larger than it originally was with little to no distortion. Given that our goal at the end of this video
is to upload the pattern to Redbubble for print? Yeah, I’d say going for the higher
PPI is a good move! There are some other settings you can mess
with when scanning, and I sometimes use the auto-detect features as far as the paper itself
goes, but it sometimes captures the image slightly skewed or not entirely. I like to
do all the color adjustments and whatnot in Photoshop, so really all that matters is getting
the image, mayyyyybe rotating it to the correct orientation if you’re feeling fancy, and
saving it somewhere. Did I mention that my computer is fairly well-aged?
It’s not the oldest, but it’s also definitely not current. I also can’t actually safely
update my operating system to the latest version because some of my programs are incompatible
with it, like this super old standalone version of Photoshop I got back before they started
charging monthly for their programs. This means that, while we may not be using
the same program as each other in this tutorial, the general principle is the same. So, fire up your image editing program of
choice! Rather than opening the scanned image, make
a new image with the original physical paper’s size and your scaner’s PPI settings. I should
probably mention that PPI stands for Pixels Per Inch, whereas DPI means Dots Per Inch.
Dots per inch means how many tiny dots of ink exist in one square inch of a printed
page, whereas PPI means how many pixels in one square inch. Fun fact in case you were
wondering! The terms are basically used interchangeably nowawdays, but they do technically mean something
different. Anyway, I used some pre-cut 10×8 inch watercolor
sheets so I know the exact measurements that the full image should be, therefore, that’s
the size of my canvas. From here, I place the scanned image on the
canvas and try to resize it as best as I can so the actual image portion itself fits exactly
within the frame. Whenever I’m resizing, I always hold down the shift key on my keyboard
because shift forces the resize to remain proportional. If you’ve ever seen an image
that looks slightly stretched, like a person’s face being way too tall and thin or something,
that usually means the image was resized without the shift key being held down, so it stretches
the image rather than fully upscaling the overall size. Take your time to get it as good as you can,
and it’s totally okay if it’s not perfect because in my experience… at this stage,
it never is. But we’re here to change all that, so no worries! Once it’s where you
want it, hit the enter or return key on your keyboard to finish placing. Because this is a black and white image, basically
the biggest adjustment we need to make is with the levels. I don’t actually know how
to explain what levels do or what traditional method of adjustment they’re mimicking,
since most tools in photoshop are actual tools you could use in a real darkroom or with traditional
mediums, but levels are the best adjustment you can use for straight up black and white
artwork. For some reason, my screen recording froze
while I was doing this part, but to get a level adjustment layer, on the bottom of the
layer selection pane there are little icons. One of them allows you to do layer adjustments,
and one of them allows you to adjust the levels. Generally, you want to move the black slider
to the point where it goes from lowest to highest, and the same with the white slider.
Then the midtone one you shift around until it looks better. Keep an eye on any spots
where that original plus-sign of cuts was, because getting them nearly invisible takes
a lot of the work out of this process. Plus, if those lines from the cuts in the
paper are gone, it usually means you’ve accomplished the darkest, smoothest blacks
and the lightest, brightest whites. I always right-click on the layer and rasterize
the image, which means that I can now work directly on this layer rather than on a separate,
floating one. No particularly compelling reason why, it’s just how I prefer to do things.
I also usually duplicate that layer before this, just in case, which is also performed
through right-clicking on the layer. This is also something my screen capture failed
to properly record. For anything left to tweak after adjusting
the levels, I paint over those spots with either a black or white brush. Generally,
there are only a few little things to edit at this stage. You’ll need to touch up the
image along those cuts lines, maybe fix any mistakes you made in the original, and then
go around the outside of the image and make sure there aren’t any gaps. One tip for switching between black and white
on your brush, easily, is to hit the letter X on your keyboard. If your foreground color
is set as black and your background set as white in the color picker, it’ll swap those
colors. This way, you don’t have to constantly hit those swap arrows right above the swatches. However, because I’m working with old software
on a computer that just wants to be left alone most days, commands don’t always work for
me, so you’ll see me hitting those swap arrows a lot. It’s good to know both options
anyway, so I don’t mind it most times. I know it sounds a lot like my computer and
I get into a lot of arguments, and you’d be right, but we really do love each other. After you’ve gotten it all cleaned up to
your liking and the edges are all sorted, save it. You probably should have saved a
few times by now, because whenever you’re working on something and get jusssst far enough
in that it would be a pain to redo is exactly the moment the power will go off for no reason,
or the application will freeze. Get in the habit of CONSTANTLY saving. Anyway, I’m doing both a raw PSD file with
the layers, as well as a compressed JPEG. Close that image. Just like before, we’re going to open a
new canvas with the exact image size and same PPI resolution as before. This time, place the compressed JPEG. It should
be exactly perfect right on the canvas since it’s already the correct size, so just hit
enter to finish placing it. To make your life a WHOLE lot easier down
the line, one of the first things you should do is go to the select menu, hit select all,
and then hit save selection. There are keyboard shortcuts to do this, but like I said, mine
are iffy. Plus, now you get to see where these things are if you don’t already know! Name
this saved selection something that’ll stand out to you, I’m naming it Crop Me because
that’s exactly what we’ll use it for! Now we need to resize the canvas. I’m going
to start by doubling it to the left. Since the goal for this pattern is to be able to
repeat it, we need to make sure everything lines up correctly on all edges. So, click
on the tile in the resize grid that makes it so any additions will be made on the left
side, then multiply your width by two in the measurement box. Boom, double-wide. To get a copy of the image over there, I make
sure to use the selection tool from the toolbar on the left (it’s the arrow up at the top),
then I hold down the option key on my keyboard until you see your arrow essentially duplicate,
indicating that we’ll copy whatever we select, and then hold down the shift key to force
whatever we move to go in a straight line. Shift forces things to stay rigidly either
in line, or in proportion, and is totally a good key command to remember. Once you have both of those keys held down,
click and hold on the image and slide it to the left. You should see a new layer appear
that’s a duplicate of the original one, and you should be able to move it into the
empty space smoothly. If you’re lucky and your program is set to do this, it should
also snap into place once it detects the edge of the canvas or the edge of the original
element. In this case, it’s detecting both! That means there’s no guessing as to whether
or not it’s lined up perfectly, since the program’s done it all for you. As you can see, the patterns doesn’t match
up super well! So, time to doodle on it top to make it all better! What I like to do is
make sure that I’m drawing directly on that original image, meaning the one that we started
this whole canvas with. Make sure that the original layer itself is under the copied
layer of the new one, to the left. This may sound ridiculous and insignificant,
but if you do it this way it means you only have to do this twice overall, rather than
four times. Oh, also, don’t forget to right-click on the original layer and rasterize it so
we can draw directly on it. Anyway, by only drawing directly on the original
layer, and making the images line up from here, you’ve automatically made it so that
the existing right-edge of the original image will perfectly pair up to the left side that
you’re now doodling on. Means you won’t have any adjustments to make once we test
this out by moving a copy of the pattern to the right side. And by having the new, copied layer on top
of the one you’re drawing on, you won’t be tempted to make any adjustments to that
side since anything you draw will only appear on the original layer. This sounds confusing,
but I hope it isn’t. Don’t forget that you can use that shortcut
of hitting the X key on your keyboard to cycle between your foreground and background color
quickly, which is super helpful when you’re just working in basic black and white like
this. After you’ve got it all cleaned up and are
satisfied with how they two pieces look together, we need to crop it back to the original size. Remember that selection we saved earlier?
Go up to the selection option in the menu bar up top, click load selection, and then
find the one that we saved in the drop down menu. I named mine Crop Me because that was
easy to remember. Once you do that, all that should be selected
is exactly what was chosen earlier. So… Let’s crop it! Go to image, then crop. At
the end of this, we only need this one single tile so this is expediting the process. Plus,
the tile that we just eliminated didn’t have its left side drawn on top of to make
it actually line up with the right edge of our pattern. Same as we did before, we’re now doubling
the canvas size, but this time we’re expanding it to the right. Then you hold down the option
key and the shift key while moving a copy of the original tile over to the right, which
should snap into place. When I said that making sure we were only
drawing on the original tile should make it so that we don’t need to do this work again
on the right side will likely pay off, now. There probably won’t be anything to change
here, but it’s always best to double-check just in case you missed something, somehow.
Be sure to, again, only make any changes to the original image layer, not the one copied
to the right. Once you’re happy with it, select that crop
me thing again, and crop it. It probably won’t surprise you to know that
we’re about to do the same thing for the top and bottom edges.
In the canvas size adjuster, double the height measurement and make sure that extra space
will only be added to one side. Use option and shift together again to move
and copy the original tile, cleaning up the edge only on the original tile image. Select, crop, and then repeat the process
for our last remaining edge. If there are any adjustments left, make them,
but you should be good or almost good at this point. Make that final crop so the only thing left
is that original completed tile, now with all the extra doodle adjustments that make
it so it actually lines up perfectly whereas it wouldn’t have before. Save. For the love of all things sudden power
outage, I really hope this isn’t the first time you have. Oops. As before, I’m keeping an original, layered
PSD file, but also saving a JPEG since that’s a universal file type that we can use to upload
to redbubble. Phew! Most of the hard work is done! Now some
small tips I’ve noticed on Redbubble, since it wasn’t all obvious to me at first. For the purposes of this tutorial, I’m going
to assume you’ve made your redbubble account by now and are ready to start uploading! If
you haven’t, follow the steps on their webpage to get started. Once you’re ready, click on your icon in
the top right corner of the site. There should be an option to upload new artwork. Because I like to make adjustments in size
with each individual item, I choose the option that lets me work with all the products available. Upload your image, give it a title, write
some nonsense about it, and add tags. I’m never really sure what to put here and usually
find it to be the most stressful part of this whole process, which is absolutely ridiculous
but hey. I’ve been called ridiculous often. This background color thing right here is
where you set what the default background color of objects will be. Meaning anything
that doesn’t have your actual image on it, if available, will be black if you set it
to black. Or white if you set it to white, etc. I usually set mine to black because that’s
just how I roll. Afterwards, the image should be previewed
on each of the available objects Redbubble can print for you. Some of them may be slightly grayed, and you’ll
notice those are the ones that say disabled rather than having a green enabled button
on the bottom. The first couple of times I did this, I missed that. What it means is
that this option doesn’t exist in your shop, until you enable it. So, if you want these
shirts to be available, you need to enable them! While you’re clicked on an item, you can
chance the location and size of your image on it. Some products won’t let you tile
your pattern, and that’s totally fine! I think it still looks pretty sweet as a standalone
image so I’m not too worried. There’s also sometimes extra options hidden
in this little settings gear, and this video is actually the first time I’ve seen these
little baby onesies so always check for hidden stuff inside! Let’s find an item that lets us actually
tile the pattern, though. And there are two different menu spaces for this so the first
couple of times I uploaded I actually thought that the second one wasn’t a repeating option
since it looked different. Not having a unified menu interface made this kind of a weird system
to play with. Anyway, we specifically designed these patterns
to tile in a normal grid, left and right and up and down. Truth be told, I don’t actually
have experience with making an offset pattern that essentially lines up on the diagonal,
but it’s certainly something I want to play with in the future. Once you’ve got that repeat set up, you
may want to resize the image and also move it around. I use the preview of the product
itself to keep an eye on what I think will look best. There are a LOT of things that Redbubble offers,
so it’ll probably take you a little bit of time to go through everything. According
to my timer, this took me about half an hour total. Don’t worry if you miss something
now, I’ve had to go back and edit option on multiple occasions and it’s as tedious
but also as easy as this. Ah! Here we go! One of the “other” repeating
menu options. For whatever reason, this looks slightly different, but functions exactly
the same. This tricked me the first time I saw it and I thought it wasn’t what I was
looking for, but later realized through total accident that it was! Anyway, set up the pattern repeat here. You might want to double-check that you enabled
all the things you want, and disabled all the objects that you don’t. Up to you. At the bottom it’ll ask you a couple of
questions about whether or not you own the image, if it’s got adult content, what category
it belongs in, etc. This portion where it has the drop down menu is asking you what
you want to be the default preview in your shop. Personally, I like just the artwork to be
the default image, but you could make it so that a pillow is the sample people see, or
comforter, or dress, or whatever. After that, you’re done! It’ll send you
to a page where you can see all the things you set up with the image on it, and you even
have an option to easily edit by clicking the edit button in the top right corner. Apologies for the loading delay as I scroll
through, but I LOVE the way these things all look. Speaking of how they look, I now own one of
my own pieces! My birthday was this past weekend and a dear dear friend got me one of the skull
scarves I designed because she knew I wanted it and she’s just the gosh darned sweetest. I can confirm that it completely and totally
rocks and I’m very very in love with it. There’s a link in the doobly-doo to my shop
if you want to get a little gift for yourself or someone else! Also, speaking of birthday gifts, this year
I’m getting myself something I need!…. A break! With the holidays coming up, multiple
friend and family events, my anniversary, and my hunky’s birthday… Well, this time
of year is super packed. Especially with secret projects that I can’t share until AFTER
they’re given to the people they’re for. So, this is me doing the right thing for my
own sanity and not trying to rush any of it. Don’t worry, I’ll be back as soon as I
can, but I hope you all have one heck of a time while I’m gone. Also, if you’re from
the future and I’ve started uploading again, ignore this message! Just felt I should leave
a tiny little notice in for anyone wondering. When I come back, I’m looking forward to
sharing some of the things I’ll have made by then, as well as exploring the Miyazaki
palette even further! With any luck, I’ll already have plenty to say about it. In the meantime, I hope this tutorial helped
you and can’t wait to see all the cool stuff you come up with! Feel free to shout yourself
out in the comments, or let me know if there’s anything you need a bit of clarification on! Until I see you next time, I wish you a peace
that settles deep into your bones, an abundance of love that helps navigate through any turmoil,
and the most incredible adventures. Bye!

11 thoughts on “How to make repeating patterns by hand and upload to redbubble for sale-part two

  1. Hello Kat Great video! Your amazing artist! I haven't commented here for a while I've had severe bad back…And please say hi to Bubba! for me! And have a good day!

  2. SMALL note of a step I realized I never mentioned: after you use the crop command, you need to deselect your selection. You can either use command D on the keyboard, or go to select>deselect on the menu bar up top. Sorry ‘bout that!

  3. Hey I know this one! The closest analog to the levels feature in film photography is using colored contrast filters and increasing the exposure time.

  4. So with all this movin stuff around in photoshop stuff could you have skipped the paper method and done the pattern splice and dice entirely in photoshop?

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