How to make Leather Armor – Fantasy Leather Breastplate for theLegend27 – Game of War Commercial

How to make Leather Armor – Fantasy Leather Breastplate for theLegend27 – Game of War Commercial


Welcome back to drawbridge props and
armoury! My name is Levi woods and I’m an armorsmith. Today I’ve been contracted
to build a leather breastplate for a game of war commercial so I thought I
would record the process so you guys could follow along. As always I’m
starting with a paper pattern and I’ve been fortunate enough to have a fitting
with the actress so I got to make an exact, well not exact, but a pretty
close replica of her body using cellophane I planned to do a tutorial on
how to do that type of body form in the future so stay tuned to my channel to
see that upcoming video but today the video is about a leather breastplate so
what I’m doing is I’ve cut out the pattern I was happy with that and now
I’m cutting out a couple other pattern pieces and I’m going to cut these out of
an 8 to 9 ounce Veggie tan leather I love to use veggie ten because its water
formable wax harden a bowl you can die at any color you want you can do custom
tooling on it it’s really easy to work with what I’m doing here is I am gonna
water shape this to give these some breast cups I’ve run it under the sink
so that it’s become saturated with water and I let it sit on the bench for about
20 to 30 minutes I’m just basically using the steak as a hammer to press it
into the form and that compresses the leather it creates a cup that’s gonna
stay on the leather when it’s all finished
now I have to set that aside to dry so while I do that I’m gonna cut out the
pattern for the back now it’s important that you use the front pattern to match
up your back patterns so that you can kind of create a flow between the two
pieces even though these aren’t ever going to be stitched together they are
going to visually align with one another I’m going to cut the back plate out of
the same eight to nine ounce leather and I’m also going to wax harden this now
that the front plate is sat overnight in front of a fan and is completely dry I’m
gonna put it into hot melted paraffin wax I’d like to keep my wax between
about a hundred and ninety degrees Fahrenheit and two hundred and fifty
degrees Fahrenheit and the idea is that it’s gonna go into the wax
and you’re gonna do it with the flesh side up so that the air can escape from
the leather and the wax can permeate right into it it usually takes about
three to four minutes depending on the thickness of your leather what you want
to watch for is that the air bubbles stop coming out of the leather that way
you know that you’ve had full penetration and basically you’ve
replaced all the air with wax and creating a hard type of waxed leather
armor because this top detail on the breastplate is going to be up close and
personal if we ever do a close-up shot of the actress it’s important that you
do little details so in this case what I’m doing is I’m spending the time to
put some hand stitching on here and I love hand stitching because you can do
different stitches and you can alternate your stitch so that it creates a
decorative pattern that looks really good and close up and you’ll see when
I’m finished here what I’ve done is I’ve created two little X’s and at the top
I’ve actually left a single stitch that looks a little bit out of place but
because I know that I’m gonna put a binding on the edge of this leather I
know that that’s going to be covered up anyways and leaving the two kind of
hourglass shaped stitches featured and in the center of that piece now while
the wax is drying I always take opportunities to just cut out strips
that I’m gonna use in the future so these are going to be used later to be
the shoulder straps which you’ll see at the very end of this project but I want
to get them cut out and died right now so that I don’t have to wait for the dye
to dry later you noticed I put a little mark on the end of those straps before I
use my English point strap punch and that’s just to keep it centered you can
dip die straps really quickly but I tend to use a whole piece of wool to die all
of my stuff it makes my eyelash and creates less of a bleed out on things
that might get oversaturated if you’re dipped dying so now that that’s done
this top piece is a little bit wet still but I’m gonna just stitch it on now this
particular sewing machine can sew through some ridiculous thickness of
leather like 7/8 or something like that so it has no
problem chewing through 2 9 ounce pieces like this especially when one of them’s
waxed it just breezes through it makes a really nice big chunky stitch which I
like for the inside I’m gonna create a really thin leather liner and so I’m
gonna cut this out of a piece of like 4 or 5 ounce and this one’s really nice
it’s got a great kind of pebble II skin texture on it so I’m putting a really
diluted alcohol dye on the skin and that’ll give us a bit of contrast
between that liner which is going to show what the sides of the breastplate
and a little bit in the abdomen region now for the binding I’m using an
upholstery leather and this is really light it’s like a two ounce and it’s got
quite a bit of stretch and its really gonna be easy to sew on so for that I’m
gonna go over to my little console which is an older machine it is from the 1980s
and I’ve upgraded it so that it has a servo motor on it which I absolutely
love means I can stitch really really slowly if I want to but I can crank it
right up and stitch pretty quickly at the same time now it’s a flatbed machine
so there’s only so much you can do with it but it’s perfect for sewing on
bindings like this so you can see in this shot that I’ve switched over to a
foot that’s been modified half of its been cut off and it allows me to so
basically stitch right in the ditch of that binding and no those clips you
might notice they’re leaving a bit of a mark but because upholstery leather is
tanned in a specific way it is really resilient to those marks I would
probably not want to put those clips directly on Veggie tan but I have no
problem using those really strong clips on the upholstery leather because you
can see the marks have already almost faded completely and they will
completely just disappear and that’s just the nature of that particular type
of leather that we’re using basically I’m going to create a bound edge on all
of the places where it might touch the actress because in this particular case
the actress is not going to be wearing my underneath this should probably have
little sports bra underneath to protect her but other than that it’s gonna look
like she’s bare skin underneath this breastplate now here we are onto the
liner part and again I’m using that same binding so I’m creating just a nice
bound edge around everything keeping it nice and soft and finishing it off
nicely I like to do this kind of treatment it’s just decorative and adds
a bit of three dimensionality to the project really with not a huge amount of
effort and although that backplate has actually been waxed and is shaped into a
curve it’s not a big deal if you kind of push it down temporarily to get it
through the sewing machine because it’s gonna spring back out once once you’ve
finished putting that binding on it’s important to trim all these edges and
tuck it in and take your time to kind of tuck them over and get them sewn down
properly alright so now we get to see what it’s going to look like and kind of
figure out where we’re gonna mark some of these pieces and see where the straps
are gonna fit and figure out these buckles now I was toying with the idea
of having the buckles on the back but I think I’m gonna go back to my original
plan which was to put the buckles on the side which is where they’re more visible
when we see the front of the actress and we’ll put some straps that are gonna
join the front plate to the back plate and I’m just using some pre dyed latigo
leather that’s cut into strips and out it goes interesting because it’s really
really strong it’s not the easiest to put nice finished edges on you kind of
have to use it where you’re not going to be like exactly fully polished edge but
otherwise it’s super-strong material and its really designed for tack and making
reigns and strapping of all sorts so really it’s durable and it’s the right
material to make any sort of straps out of so I try to use it where we know
there’s gonna be straps that are gonna get abused they’re gonna be opened and
closed quite often and it’s nice because you can buy in different colors that are
already diet so you don’t have to worry about that
the other thing again about latigo is that it’s got quite a bit of oil in it
so it actually is quite non marring which is nice for straps so they don’t
get as easily beat up as say if you made veggie tent straps the top shoulder ones
that I made which I know those aren’t going to get open very much so that’s
okay these veggie ten they’re one of the steps of this process is to finish off
the edges of these straps and I’m going to use this little hardwood rotary tool
and using some beeswax I’m going to basically burnish the edge of all of
these straps and it just kind of cleans it up a bit give us a bit of wear and
tear looking but it leaves a bit of the natural color of exposed as well I quite
like that finished this is a technique I use all the time but basically I’m using
the rivet itself to press an impression into the leather strap so I know where
to punch my hole once I’ve got my holes punched I’m going to punch them out and
set one before I set the second one that way I can ensure that those straps are
dead even with each other if you punch both holes at once there’s a chance that
they one of the straps could be slightly offset and that visually is always a
little bit distracting so I try to make sure I do the first set then punch the
second set of holes and that way you end up with perfectly aligned straps now the
next part is going to be the front straps that connect the front to the
back because I want these to be pretty clean looking I’m gonna use a slot punch
and actually have this strap terminate on the inside of the front chest plate
you can see that I’m using a ruler attached to my punch and I’ve just put a
piece of masking tape on there and marked out where I want the alignment of
the holes and that way I can just slide the strap along and quickly make
matching straps because there’s six that are all identical I’m gonna utilize the
fact that I’m taking these straps down through the backside of the material and
I’m gonna also take it through the liner so essentially by putting the straps
through both the chest plate and the liner I’m going to effectively bring
them both together at one piece and that’ll be the only way that
attached so it’s important that the spacing works out so that once the the
liner is curved that you’ve actually got the right kind of shape around the body
that you haven’t made the the liner portion too tight but it works extremely
well for this type of thing so it just it makes two pieces function as if they
were one and give stability to both of them at the same time so now that we’ve
got that we can attach the two pieces together and I’m just going to test fit
this on the cellophane body form that I have and once we get to see that the fit
I can get these shoulder straps at the right angle by using the you can see I
put the yellow tape on the body form and that’s what I’ll use to line up the
shoulder straps this is a great little technique I basically have drawn where I
want the strap punch the holes then mark the set of holes on one side and then
using a pencil I just trace over the holes on one side flip the pattern and
then I have them I can mark the opposite side one side is exactly the same as the
other side and it’s a really simple easy thing to do so now the back strap is
getting attached with some rivets and then the front straps are actually going
to be hidden underneath so I’m using that top section of the breast cup the
wax leather portion that’s still sticking up and just punch a couple of
holes in there and it’s pretty hard to get a hammer and anvil in there I have
steaks that I could do that with but usually if it’s a tight squeeze I just
grab a pair of vise grips and tighten them up to the tension that I want to
set the rivet at and then just use the vise grip to to kind of click those
rivets into place it’s a really great set trick that somebody showed me years
ago and I absolutely loved it and now that those last couple rivets are done
this is it this is the completed leather breastplate that I built for game of war
and which we shot here man Coover and as a super bonus I’ve actually got a little
bit of behind-the-scenes footage of Brittany actually wearing this armor on
set so here you guys go this is what it looked like when the actors got to wear
it if you guys haven’t already please subscribe to my channel and click the
like button below I really appreciate it thanks for watching

28 thoughts on “How to make Leather Armor – Fantasy Leather Breastplate for theLegend27 – Game of War Commercial

  1. Wow! Great Vid! I am learning how to make leather armor and you have some great tips! I never thought to use vice grips for rivets! Thank you!

  2. Silly looking "armour" but very nicely made. More importantly it was a very useful tutorial that showed your process and thoughts. I am very impressed at how entertaining and interesting you made it. Thankyou for also showing some very useful techniques for making the finished piece look so professional.

  3. Great work! I got a leather armor vest and I dyed it with dark brown using spray. It basically dyed very nice, but now I need to make it look distressed or weathering. How would you do weathering on a nice leather armor. I should have used a piece of wool like you did which make it look distressed already. Thanks

  4. I just made some fantasy armour for one of my Girlfriend's Daughters, It is silly and non practical but looks ok and is good enough for LARP. https://youtu.be/PchoNfScCfs

  5. This video was exactly what I was looking for. I've never worked with leather before, so making the chest and shoulder pieces for my outfit's going to be an adventure. Is there anyway to harden and shape the leather without wax? I dont have access to that much heated wax

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