How To Make A Martian Gaming Base

How To Make A Martian Gaming Base


Matt Damon! We’ll be looking at how to do a Mars style
base today. I usually start off by trimming the edge of the base with a sharp knife. Just
cut of any bits of flashing, to tidy the sides up Next I take this little piece of wood to which
I’ve glued on some sand paper and I use that to smooth down any imperfections round the
edge so it’s all nice and flat. It doesn’t take long to do and it ensured
you don’t get any horrible marks on the side of the base when you come to paint the rim
so it’s worth taking the time to do. Mix up a bit of green stuff, and roll it into
a little sausage. Place a couple on the base, try and vary their length so they’re not exactly
the same. I’m going to glue these down in place with
some superglue, now you don’t really need to glue them as the greenstuff tends to act
like it’s own glue after a while but it makes it easier to keep them in place while you’re
sculpting them. Once those are glued on, I use a rubber sculpting
tool to flatten out the edges, the effect we’re going for here is to make little undulations
on the base as if some sand has been blown into a little drift. So just keep working the edge with your sculpting
tool until it’s nicely flattened out onto the base. Once your greenstuff has dried, put some PVA
glue onto the base and push it around with an old brush until you cover the whole surface. Now we’ll use this sand, it’s a mix of various
different grades of sand and I’ve added some ripped up bit of cork to simulate stones or
small rocks. Just go ahead and pour that onto the base.
You can see the cork pieces have clumped together a bit on one side, but that’s totally fine,
it’ll actually look pretty cool once we’ve painted it. I don’t want quite so many rocks though so
I’ll use a brush to pull some of the off so it’s not quite so crowded. Once you’re happy with the look, just leave
it to dry then spray it with some black primer. I used Games workshop Chaos Black. Then you’re going to take some white and spray
it down onto the base at about a 60 degree spraying from one side only. You can see that it’s bright on one side and
dark on the other, because the white paint only hits one side of the grain it gives you
that nice preshaded effect. Take some Games workshop Scrag brown and add
some water to it to make a glaze. You want the consistency of the paint to be really
quite thin, you can see on the palette that it’s about the same sort of consistency as
a wash. Load up your brush and begin to paint the
base, starting at dark side. You can see I’m using a pretty big brush for this, that’s
so I can get quite a lot of the glaze on the base, you really want to ladel it on there,
once it dries you’ll get a nice effect because the black and white undercoat will show through
underneat, giving you an instant shade and highlight. So just keep drawing the paint across the
base until you get close to the other side. Wash your brush off and we’ll make another
glaze this time with Games Workshop Tau Light Ochre. Again you can see just how thin that
is on the palette there. Now we’ll do the same thing again but starting
at the other side. Once we get close to the edge of the scrag brown we’ll begin to draw
the two colours together. So I’m just pulling the ochre into the brown
and working the brush back and forth letting the two colours mix on the surface.
Do that across the width of the base, pulling those two colours together. It really is like
magic how easily you can create a transition using this technique. Once that dries you can see that it gives
you a really awesome effect. The preshading we did with the black and white really helps
to give the base depth without messing about with lots of washes and drybrushing. As an optional extra we can add some more
contrast by taking some Army Painter Strong Tone and just putting some along the back
edge here. Then we’ll wash the brush and with some water
in the bristles we’ll just feather it out over the base. So you basically place the brush into the
edge of the wash and draw it backwards as you sweep the brush back and forth, the wash
mixes with the water in the bristles, thinning it down, so as you draw it backwards away
from the wash, it gets thinner and thinner until all there is is water, allowing you
to get a nice subtle fade effect. It can take a while to dry but you can speed
that up with a hairdryer. To finish off we’ll just paint the rim with
some black. So there’s nothing difficult here, but you
can see if gives you a really striking final result, here’s one I did earlier with a model
attached. Alright guys, that’s all from me. Let me know
what you thought by leaving a comment down below. You can help the channel grow by liking
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I’ll see you all next time! Thanks again. Bye for now.

76 thoughts on “How To Make A Martian Gaming Base

  1. Fantastic as usual! Not only could Matt Damon use this base, but so could Arnie while he's gasping for air in Total Recall…

  2. The color transitions are fantastic here and looks super simple to make.

    Have you had any experience with larger dunes?

  3. Very nice. Your videos are very informative and I like your video clips and music which give them character and make them fun to watch. I also like the fast pace of them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

  4. A beautiful base, the first time that I see use wet blending on a base, the single problem that I perceive is that you have to match the light source on the base with the light source on the miniature or the whole thing will look a bit strange, as the light source is so marked on the base.

  5. Great video as usual…can I ask which paper are you using for the wet palette and which sponge? I did my own but it's always full of wrinkle and , although the sponge is soaking, the paper on top is almost dry. I've tried 2 brands of parchment paper but so far no good results

  6. Quick Tip: Score your base in a checkerboard like pattern with your hobby/craft knife to help the pva & ca (super) glue adhere much more firmly to the base. Particularly important with pva as it has a tendency to peel away from the plastic of bases after a bit of time.

    Another way to achieve a sandy or martian sand effect on your bases is with CA (super) glue and baking soda, place down thin CA glue and spinkle on baking soda a little at a time, let it absorb the baking soda. It dries very quickly since baking soda causes CA glue to cure virtually on contact and you can build up effects like sand dunes and mud quite quickly. Once dried, dust off any excess and prime for painting.

  7. I find that when I use white glue it always peels off like pudding skin eventually. Does that happen to you? Am I not using the right glue? (Elmer's pva glue). Also, I prefer gluing my plastic models directly to the plastic base rather than plastic to sand. Have you ever had an issue with the model falling off, as the super glue bond is fragile?

  8. That wasn’t Mars at the beginning, it was just the moon coloured red haha

    The basing looks genuinely solid though! Awesome work

  9. @kujo if I wanted to "dust" the feet of a space marine placed onto the base what would be the color I should use to dust his feet up as if he was walking on the surface?

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