How to make a DIY Longboard

How to make a DIY Longboard

Hey, we’re Jay and Jaimie and today we’re going to make a longboard This is a project that I’ve wanted to do for a long time I’ve been into skateboarding my entire life, but I’ve never made my own board I on the other hand have never skateboarded, like ever in my life, and it’s kind of a little terrifying! We are gonna build a board that is so easy to ride and so comfortable And so awesome that you’re just gonna like immediately fall in love with skateboarding. You’re gonna wanna do it all time Sweet. So on a scale of 1 to 10 how difficult of a woodworking project is this? 1 to 10 woodworking probably like a 2 maybe a 3. It’s basically a cutting board with wheels. All right, let’s get started. All right We started off with a couple pieces of walnut a piece of sapele, which is african Mahogany and a nice white piece of maple these weren’t exactly scrap wood but they were kind of awkwardly shaped pieces that we’ve had around for a while so they seemed like they’d be real good for this. After we rough cut them to size We brought them over to the jointer so that we could joint each face and edge perfectly flat and straight. This is gonna help us a lot later when we glue this up into one big panel. At the table saw we can rip these down to the exact width we need, plus it makes each edge parallel so that when we glue it into a panel, it’s all going to be nice and straight. Next up we want to get the hardware ready ’cause we’re going to use that to align some stuff. The trucks are GullWing Sidewinder II’s. Really nice, dual kingpin. these are the REDS bearings from Bones, I’ve always had a great experience with these, and the wheels are the 70 millimeter for 4 Presidents from Orangatangs. They’re massive. There’s a bunch of different ways you can put bearings inside the wheels but this is kind of a tried-and-true method. Just slide the bearing onto the truck. Then you just sort of push it into the wheel There’s one bearing on each side of each wheel so you just got to make sure that each one goes in all the way and they’re nice and straight. Last up for the hardware prep was to bolt the wheels onto the trucks. This is super easy you just need a socket wrench and the only thing you have to really worry about is if you go too tight the wheels not gonna spin and if you go too loose kind of, wiggle side to side. So you want to find that sweet spot. Check the description below for links to all these parts. I joked that this is a lot like building a cutting board with wheels and I was dead serious about that it’s the same woodworking techniques. We’re gonna take some pieces of wood. We’re milling them flat and straight we’re gluing together our panel and then instead of taking it to the kitchen to cut on we’re gonna cut out a skateboard shape and put some wheels on. The next step for us now that we’ve got our pieces milled up is we’re gonna glue them together into our panel and take it from there. So like I said the goal here is we’re gonna glue these four pieces of wood up into one big panel and that’s gonna make of our skateboard deck The boards get tilted up onto the end and we’re going to use a small roller to spread the glue very evenly across the edges It’s super important that you get every last bit of surface area. So they get a tight seal From there. We carefully tighten up the clamps making sure that the board stays nice and straight as we get all the clamps on It really helps to have a lot of clamps when you do a panel glue up like this If you don’t have this many you’ll probably be fine. But using as many as you can definitely helps The glue is drying So now is the perfect time for us to create the template for the shape of the longboard Jay and I went online and looked at different longboard designs and we settled on a really cool Pintail shape. So now we’re gonna go work some magic in Photoshop. The deck we chose is from the fiber flex series from Gordon and Smith. Once we get the image in Photoshop Control click on the layer to select the outline. We then smooth the selection to remove any jagged edges Then we create a new layer and draw a two pixel stroke around our selection Now you can see we have a nice clear outline with the shape we want. When you zoom in you can see that the edges are fairly smooth, but they don’t have to be perfect because we’re going to go in and shape it by hand anyway. We wanted the deck to be 39 inches long so we resized it and then printed it out Once we have the printout we taped it down to the desk then we use the trucks to mark out where they were going to go. The image that we used as the basis for our template did have holes in it for trucks But since we resized it, we weren’t confident that those were going to line up So we thought it would be a safer bet to align it ourselves and put everything exactly where we wanted it. This took a bit of measuring and making sure everything is square and straight etc. But it wasn’t too hard Next we just used a razor blade to cut out that shape carefully so that we could put it on or deck By now the glue was dry So we went over to the bench took off all the clamps and then took a look at the panel Thankfully it stayed nice and straight. Everything looks good so we used a sharp chisel to scrape off the excess glue and then took it to the thickness planer to pass it through a few times to get it all parallel and down to the right thickness. Now that the board is perfectly flat. We’re gonna use the X-Carve CNC to cut out some really bitchin’ artwork. Now obviously you don’t have to use a CNC machine for this you can use a stencil or you can freehand your artwork on and that would Be totally fine, but we really love using the Inventables X-Carve for things like this I think it gives us a nice dramatic look, clean lines, and it makes it really easy to paint. After tracing the template onto the board to kind of roughly figure out where we wanted the artwork to go we secured everything down to the table and got the carve started. We set it up to be 1/8 inch deep and we did it in two passes There’s a roughing pass which takes away the bulk of the material and then there’s a detail pass which uses a v-groove bit to cut Some really fine detail We lost a couple of shots when our camera overheated from it being about 95 degrees in the shop that day But as you can see, it came awesome Once the carve was done. We did a little cleanup with some sandpaper and then it was ready for paint We use some cardboard to cover up the wood and protect it from the paint The paint we’re using is some Rustoleum primer that we had on hand We’re gonna hit it from all three sides to make sure we get paint in all the little nooks and crannies The primer was a good choice for this because it sticks to the wood really well and we’re gonna cover it with some semi-gloss anyway We’re gonna put the whole board through the planer to scrape off the top layer of paint But paint really dulls the planer blades so we want to take off as much as we can with a sharp razor first Because we use so many layers of paint this took awhile And we wanted to be really careful not to gouge our work and break off any corners All we had to do was run it through the planer once to remove that final bit of paint It came out awesome. There was one little scratch in the eye, but we touch that up later with me Guys, I’m so pumped about how this thing is coming out. It looks amazing so far There’s a good reason that we cut out the artwork on the bottom first before cutting out the curved profile the skateboard on the bandsaw That’s because we wanted to use the straight edges on that board to reference off of so that we could make sure it’s Square to The table and get everything nice and straight position exactly where we want. Now that that’s done We’re ready to cut out the skateboard shape. So let’s get our template ready and hit the bandsaw The first step was to actually stick the template to the wood to do that We used a stencil adhesive spray that we got at the craft store You just spray it on let it dry for about a minute and then stick it onto the wood This stuff is great because it sticks really well, but when you pull it back off It doesn’t leave any gross residue. The lines from the trucks actually helped us align it really nicely too. Alexa, turn on the dust collector We use the bandsaw to cut out the template and try to get as close to the line as we could We knew that we were gonna fare these curves at the bench and really dial them in with a hand plane But it still helps to get as close as we can here if you don’t have a bandsaw you could totally use a jigsaw for this. I happen to hate jig saws. So I like to use a bandsaw. Also, yes, Alexa can turn on our dust collector. We pulled the template off and it came off really easily Like we said that stuff we used is awesome. And then we forgot that we had to mark the holes for the trucks So we put the template back on mark the holes and then pull it off again. Next up, we’re going to take it to the bench and smooth out some of these curves The bandsaw leaves a bit of a rough surface plus we didn’t cut exactly to the line in certain places So we brought it to the workbench put it in the vise and we’re using a tool called a spokeshave to fair out the curves and make everything nice and smooth a Spokeshave is a type of hand plane that has a really small sole which is the part that touches the wood on the bottom So it’s ideal for doing curves You could just as easily use some sandpaper for this but I really like using this tool So much of woodworking is trying to get these perfect lines and these exact angles So I really like doing curves and organic shape sometimes because it really doesn’t matter if it’s perfect You just want it to look good at this point. I was pretty happy with it So we went to the disk sander to take care of the tips on the front and back. These are end grain So the spokeshave was not cutting them very well We used a roundover bit on the router table to give it a nice round profile on each side and remember that this is sped up footage. Don’t go that fast on the router table normally! Using the marks that we made from the template. We then drilled the holes for the hardware and countersink them I should have counter sunk them first, but I forgot I had to do this. So I got a little chatter, but it’s fine With all the shaping done it was time to do the surface prep quick finish We use a sanding block and sand it up to 320 grit We then raised the grain by spreading some water on it. Let it dry And then sand it it one more time get a really nice surface For the finish. We used a spray-on polyurethane with a satin finish I don’t normally use these spray can finishes But I was at this point really excited to ride the board and I didn’t have the patience to do 24 hours per coat Since the skateboard is going to be outside a lot and could get wet We wanted to do a bunch of coats of finish and make sure that it’s gonna be really durable So we ended up doing five coats of this polyurethane Let’s just say we were not disappointed. It came out amazing! With the deck finished it was time to put the grip tape on the top of it Grip tape is sort of like a sandpaper type stuff It has a sticky bottom and you stick it to the top of the skateboard so that when you’re riding it your feet stay on. I was so anxious and excited at this point I wasn’t thinking and I used my hands to rub it down and I took off most of my finger print which took about a week to grow back. I got smart and used a wooden block to do it and that worked a lot better So yeah, learn from my mistakes don’t use your finger. We had a vague idea of how to do this We knew that we had to stick the tape down get the air bubbles out And then we cut around the edges to get the excess off and then you use a hard surface like a screwdriver or something with A hard edge to rub down the edges to get the grip tape to stick right on the edge of the board after that It’s just a matter of using a sharp razor to carefully trim off all the excess I’ve put together a lot of skateboard decks in the past But I’ve never built one from scratch if you’re thinking about building one yourself. I highly recommend it It was really fun and really easy to do. Now I just have to decide if I’m gonna hang this on the wall or go take it for a ride… Guys thank you so much for watching the video. We really hope you liked it We’d never built a skateboard before like we said and I think it was a total success We even got Jaimie to ride it! if you enjoyed this video be sure to click the like button and then check out the other projects we have also please subscribe to the wicked makers Channel you can get notified every time we upload a new video and Leave us a comment because we love hearing from you. Thanks again guys and until next time stay wicked What were we saying before? cut out a little pin shape, pin tail shape, pin tail fin… Glue some wheels on, and walla! Cutting board with wheels!

100 thoughts on “How to make a DIY Longboard

  1. does it have flex tho. longboards need flex
    also she is really unnatural talking to the camera, talks fast and robotic like she’s reciting a speech. not natural, breaks the 4th wall

  2. your Longboard looks awesome and you did amazing job there no like design and create own fabulous longboard
    enjoy your ride pal :-))))

  3. This is how *not to make a longboard. There will be absolutely no flex or contour in the deck with this fabrication method. It will also be very difficult to carve or even take the board over bumps because of the lack of flex.

  4. When you put on griptape, you take of the non sticky paper from the griptape and place it on your griptape. You won't ruin your hands while rubbing it down this way.

  5. My personal favorites are/were "Churchill RKP" trucks. They are still sold by Funbox Distribution, though I don't think they are called "Churchill" anymore. They are very low priced, but very strong and more cleanly finished than most. I have beat the snot out of them for years now, they are tough.

    I would advise (in all my infinite wisdom granted by the YouTube comment gods) that you use spacers and "speed rings," or use a set of "built in" bearings (Zealous brand are my favorites) to give maximum alignment/speed capabilities for the bearings.

  6. I only have one thing to say on how to improve the board. Instead of clear grip tape, go to your local marine/surf shop and buy some surfboard resin. Mix the 2 part resin, spread a thin coat on the top of the board (after masking off the sides), let it dry for 5-10 mins then get yourself some coarse white sand and sprinkle it on top. Too thick of a layer will take forever to dry and the sand will sink to the bottom and be non effective. This is also why you let the surface dry a bit before putting the sand on, it will help it stay on the surface. Epoxy/sand will be more effective, more durable, and your wood or image on the top of the boards will be clear as day

  7. There is (same company) a spray that is waterproof and U.V. proof. I use it for outdoor furniture. Looks almost exactly the same as the satin poly just a little thicker. Good build. Referencing for a custom for my son.

  8. im not a huge longboarder but im pretty sure you put the trucks on backwards, it supposed to be opposite from a skateboard, just an fyi

  9. Aesthetically its really nice. Not very practical because its is just single ply lumber but its a cool wall piece. Also the grip job killed me inside.

  10. Awesome video! If you add bearing spacers to your wheel set up, you can properly tighten the axle nuts all the way, it fixes the issue of overtightening the nuts and also creates the proper space for your bearings and they will ride better and last longer. Try it out, be amazed and keep making riding!

  11. Looks great. Reminds me of my first longboard. I do think this one would be better on the wall. That's because board does nothing. It literally is a board with wheels and I don't like a rigid board like that.
    But like I said, it looks great, anyone would be lucky to have it decorating one of their walls. 🤘🏼🤘🏼

  12. Beautiful job, I love my gullwings too, they turn on a dime and look trippy because they look like they go on backwards due to the double turn, they sit a little high though (especially for someone who has never ridden a board before) and you probably have room to sink them into the that deck a few millimetres, it'd make a big difference to the ride as long as you avoid wheel bite and should due to the shape you've chosen, love your work and think I might give one a go myself, I have a couple of long boards, but never made one from scratch, thanks for the inspiration!

  13. looks cool but how well is that glue gonna hold together? seems like it's gonna snap down the center after a few rides.

  14. im not a skateboarder by any means, but i do wear all the brands and like the thought of skateboarding. I just built my own skateboard last night and the finished product looks great i believe, I wanted to come here and learn what it would take to actually build one. I'm excited.

  15. Yeah, its nice all this material to have a so thick skateboard that is probably really heavy. I wish you used all of your tools to carve in some concave. Its looking good though.

  16. I guess I could do this next year for an elective class if I like Wood Tech this year

  17. You forgot to put bushings inbetween the bearings.. that is why the wheels bind if you overtighten them..

  18. The music and the intro are so annoying and cheesy, it looked like a really cool video but I couldnt go past the intro. I’m not leaving this comment out of hate but as a creator you might be wondering why people leave at certain time frames. You might be losing possible subs because of that, you do cool stuff

  19. Im gonna do something similar in my construction class as my project. I already have many skateboards so i can use the hardware

  20. i used 3 panels of .25" thick luanne wood.i think i spelled it right.glued it all together using ratchet straps to bend it for my concave and weights for my kicktail.its .75" thick and its a softer wood and absorbs a ton of vibration.unlike a store bought birch wood deck.i weigh 160 and so far so good.ive made 3 out of this wood and havent snapped one yet.knock on wood

  21. Beautiful board! I really love your channel. I have a few issues with the mounting of the wheels, though…
    Not using spacers in between the bearings, and not tighten the wheelnuts, could get you in trouble. I would do at least one or the other. Not trying to be a smartass, just want you all to be safe. Great channel you guys have. I'm binge watching all the Halloween stuff now.:-)

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