How to Fix a Sail Boat Deck, BEFORE the Anchor Windlass RIPS OUT!!! Patrick Childress Sailing #48

How to Fix a Sail Boat Deck, BEFORE the Anchor Windlass RIPS OUT!!! Patrick Childress Sailing #48

there was a little bit of weakness in
the foredeck underneath the windlass so now is the time to take the windlass out
open up the foredeck and get rid of water saturated balsa and make it strong
like it should be hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
Childress on the 40 foot valiant and Brick House
we are hauled out on the East Coast in South Africa in Richards Bay and we are
going through the entire boat trying to find problems and correct them before we
head out across the Atlantic to Uruguay what’s this? this is the money that we
save because Patrick has the tools and the know-how to fix this boat without
his knowledge all this will just be down the drain of
course it’s only about ten bucks anyway down in the description down below
there’s five or six different ways to support our channel you’re not
supporting our lifestyle you’re just supporting the cameras and all the time
and effort that Patrick has to put into doing this he works 12 hours a day on
this boat and then he comes in until he can’t even keep his eyes open anymore at
night and edits the videos hope you appreciate it I’m hope you like them if
you do give them a thumbs up subscribe share the link to your local yacht club
do what you can to share the word that really helps us out
thanks a lot for watching because of the heavy wide backing plates underneath the
windlass there never was that much flexing of the foredeck when we’re
picking up our ground tackle unless we also were picking up someone else’s
abandoned anchor or an old mooring but now is the time to dig into this whole
area and make sure that everything is going to be structurally sound so we
don’t have any problems in the future but first I had to squeeze upside down
through the little access hole into the chain Locker and undo the bolts to the
windlass and the deckplates while our friend Bert who we met through our
youtube videos helped out up on top once everything was out of the way that
structural surgery began I’m using a diamond-tipped blade but just a regular
masonry cutting blade would work as well this is all solid no no I guess not and
it’s all wet so now we have to scrape all that old balsa out of here clean up
the area and you can see some hunks of fiberglass that are in here and if I can
knock those out those are old repairs we’ll get those out of the way and just
redo them and with this tool that’s twisted 90 degrees I reach way in
underneath the decking and trying to grab as much of that old balsa out of
there and dig it out as well as possible learn how to during this and cartina
Columbia when we were hauled out there we had the guys dig into a lot of the
side decking to remove the saturated balsa especially around the chain plate
areas so I wanted that area made as strong as possible so for two days we
had the hairdryer set on low blowing warm air into these areas deep into the
cavity where I couldn’t reach with a 90 degree probe I’ll come back yeah it’s pretty just
free I’ll come back with a wire brush why your brush all of this and clean it
up and wipe it down with some acetone and vacuum it really well and I’m going
to go over to this a dumpster for some pieces of fiberglass that I can use as
filler to help build this up instead of using all of my expensive valuable resin
and fiberglass cloth I’ll have already made chunks of
fiberglass to help fill this up and make it strong and I’ll be able to shove them
up way back up under here – to help fill up the gaps along with those chunks of
fiberglass I’ll also use that 90 degree vent tool to shove fiberglass in resin
way up under here to help filled up the voids also here we go solid fiberglass panel that’s
just what I needed for filler perfect this will be more than enough and I’ll
sand the shiny side get that roughened up yes this is just what we needed these pieces of fiberglass panel along
with larger pieces out in the field will be set in place amongst fiberglass cloth
and residue this fiberglass panel wrapped in plastic will be screwed up
from the bottom to help seal the holes for the chain and the other wiring holes
in bolt holes to make sure that resident cloths don’t go dripping through but
I’ll also plug up these holes with some butyl tape that I have I could have used
clay modeling clay it probably would have been just as easier and actually
cheaper but I need something to maintain these holes in their placement so I can
drill back in the exact same spot when we’re ready to install the windlass so
now it’s time to cut off the protruding screws holding up the panel just below
us and then start wetting things out and get it ready for the fiberglass cloth
and the build up on the left there you see a big hunk that was solid fiberglass
that was a previous repair that was done in Columbia and I’ll talk about that a
little more in a few minutes and I’ll have to grind that down from above a
little later on as we build up these plies without this 90-degree probe it would
have been very difficult to get the wetted out fiberglass cloth and even
these scree cut panels way up in here where they were needed to fill up the
gap so one layer two layers three layers we
keep building it up but I had to stop at four layers and let things cool down too
many layers at one time and you get a heat buildup and you could actually get
things smoking if you’re not careful so I took a lunch break and come back and
find more layers and the next morning I’ll come back and check my work okay
this is the morning after everything is well set up I’m going to clean
everything up here vacuum and then wash this area down with the little soapy
water and some fresh water but right now I can feel on here it’s like a greasy
waxy feel that’s the amine blush that comes out of epoxy and then I’ll get out
the big grinder and grind this out I’ll grind this down a bit and grind it way
out to the sides all the way around and put the Belleville in there for getting
ready to do the layup and the final layups and patches you just can’t have a
hard spot here we need to bevel this back and get the
adhesion on to the rest of the surrounding fiberglass I know what
you’re thinking why didn’t I grind that bevel out into
the white area first and then I could just run all of those plies of laminate
right up on to the bevel and be done with it
well sometimes I just worked harder rather than smarter and that would have
been a great idea but I discharged it into the project and this didn’t plan
ahead all that much but having a double-double like this it’s gonna be
good and strong and I just won’t have any problems with it see here in the
pieces but if I had to do it again I would do the outward devil first and run
the flies up onto it while digging while sanding everything here I found a void
not a void but another pocket of balsa and so I dug all that out it’s all
cleaned out and had the hairdryer sitting on here for the past hour and a
half so it’s all dried up nice and ready for patching so mix up some thickened
epoxy will really fill this in nicely this was not that large of a void but
still I couldn’t fill the whole area up in one go with the thickened epoxy as
that would cause too much of a heat buildup in the curing process and it
caused smoking and maybe even melting of the surrounding area and then start
laying in the cloth one big section first and then get to smaller pieces as
we work into the center and then one big piece to go over the whole thing and of
course some people would start with narrower pieces and work up with wider
pieces till you fill up the whole valley and sometimes I do it that way myself so
flip a coin it’s all just dick one big big batch of polyester resin
about 12 years ago in Colombia I had some guys dig this area out well they
should have dug this area out too but they dug this area out they pulled out
the rotten coring the saturated coring and I told him on the rebuild I wanted
it layered with fiberglass cloth and resin then I went away for five minutes
I come back and his whole area is just full of just resin and no cloth I
thought ah geez that can’t be strong but here it is 12 years later this area
shows no sign of cracking or any other structural defects so polyester resin
give it some mass and it’s surprising how robust it can be especially when you
cover over the top of it with two layers of fiberglass cloth
however polyester resin in just a thin layer say like 1/16 of an inch sheet
with no reinforcing like fiberglass cloth or fiberglass mat it’s extremely
brittle however give it that reinforcing of mat or cloth and that 1/16 of an inch
or two sixteenth of an inch reinforced polyester then becomes extremely robust
so enough layers or cloth or laid around the perimeter to make everything level
and then one large layer of cloth to help smoothen things out goes down and
then the peel ply is applied and that’ll help to make everything nice and smooth
and require a lot less sanding for the final preparation and the end the faring
out so in the morning we pulled the peel ply away the Amine blush goes away with
the peel ply so I don’t have to wash down the area also the Peel ply lays
down all the fibers of the fiberglass cloth making for a much smoother surface
and a lot less sanding in preparation for the next step and then with a
utility knife I cut away all of the dry fiberglass cloth that I didn’t need to
saturate with resin that’ll make it a lot easier for sanding
I don’t have to send all that up in to dust
so just a bit of feathering in around the edges and then a little bit of sanding out in the field and we’re
ready to do the fairing now I get to use S-Fair 600 fairing compound it’s a
two-part epoxy you just mix it up 50/50 in the quantity that you need and go to
work far easier than trying to mix certain additives into epoxy resin and
then get it all spread before it all sets up so this is easy to sand not
terribly easy to sand but it’s very doable and certainly much better than any other
system that I’ve used before so we get this from AMT composites out of Cape
Town after getting all the compound in place then I use this 10 inch 254
millimeter wide compound knife to smooth and everything out but I had to work
fast there’s only about a 10 minute work time before this stuff starts to set up
so after a quick sanding with a random orbit sander we wipe everything down
with acetone and paper towels we don’t use rags because we just don’t know how
clean the rags are they might be contaminated with a bit of oil or grease
that could mess up the work so paper towels are a much safer bet for the
final wipe down and then Prime with two-part primer the only primer I could
get was green in color so we had to go with that and then two coats of two-part
white paint on top of that and next time we’ll be ready to install the windlass
the backing plates and I can show you some repairs that we previously did on
the bulkheads inside of the chain Locker and our new 3/8 inch Maggi chain made
in Italy order from Maggi chain USA but there’s more to the story which we’ll
have to cover in the next video I hope this video is worthwhile for you if it
was please click on the thumbs up button and if you haven’t already on the
subscribe button and also in the video description there’s a tip jar if you
don’t mind helping out in that direction so thanks a lot for watching and we’ll
see you next time

66 thoughts on “How to Fix a Sail Boat Deck, BEFORE the Anchor Windlass RIPS OUT!!! Patrick Childress Sailing #48

  1. Nice deck repair, it looks like a good, no drama shipyard. So how far off are you to launching Brickyard, and also how is your new battery locker area working out?

  2. Patrick, u lay as much as 4 layers of cloth at the time, doesn't that amino blush stay between layers, or does it all come on top of the final layer?

  3. I just started using epoxy but when filling gaps I found cutting up some cloth into small fibers and strips really helps bulk the mixture out and dries solid and clings like mad.

  4. Fun video again Mr Patrick! You will certainly have a new home when she splashes again! I am saving the links for your videos, I am surely going to need your "assistance" on several projects coming up. Top of the list is Miss Rebecca's Iridium Go/ nav station review…..Thanks, hope you get to travel around the cape before departing! Andrew

  5. Yay another Brick House video! Patrick you sir have a nose for finding boat work projects :p I don't know what is more impressive – the repair or how you got yourself into the forward crawl space! I enjoyed the video. Glad to see a little footage at the end of the video which I hope was from your most recent Safari. Best of luck on knocking down the items on the refit list with hopefully fewer additions to it as you near completion. For a second there I thought Rebecca was living large with those tens of thousands of local currency (10 bucks) – what a clever video snippet. Take care

  6. Before I started watching your videos, I would have been scared off from repairs of this magnitude. Now, I might have the confidence to give it a try! Can't wait to see what you have up next.

  7. Hi Patrick !
    Nice instructional video , by the way you teach people's they are going to save a lot of money !
    Regards, Angel From Fort Lauderdale .

  8. Good job ! Ain’t the way I would do it, but that is the fantastic thing about FG. There are 1000s of ways to work glass.

    Do you ever use foam?

  9. Once upon a time I saw a guy take a Allen wrench and put it in a drill. He spun it and used that to dig the old core out!!! He went from hole to hole knocking up the rotten stuff. He was left with a lower layer of glass and a upper layer of glass with holes in it. He squirted foam in the middle and let it expand. He sanded off the foam coming out the holes. Then he laid glass over the mess, faired and painted. You could not find a scratch!!!! Amazing!! And easy

  10. How about an in depth report on South Africa’s Apartheid movement. They are saying the country is going to allow the blacks to take the white farmers land back!!
    There will be a lot of starvation if it’s like I think Uganda! What’s going on there

  11. Lol..If I had a boat, I'd be way too much of a perfectionist. I would've insisted my husband let me work on it and I'd HAVE to have the whole area of that old patch cut out/removed Before I started packing in the pieces of FG and resin into the voids. I'd drive me insane if not. Lol.
    But like you said, to each his own. And as long as it holds up then it's all good.
    ❤ ⛵

  12. Hope this lasts and you and your family are safe. I commend your efforts but this is how it’s supposed to go,…

    1) determine the extent of the damage by drilling a series of small holes through the top skin into the core material but NOT through the bottom skin. If the balsa comes out wet, drill another hole further out from the center of the damage till you hit dry core.

    2) Mark the perimeter of the damage.

    3) Cut the top skin and remove as carefully as possible to avoid damaging it.

    4) Scrape out rotted core material.

    5) Prepare/clean up area. Also prepare/cut to size your replacement balsa core. It comes in sheets of little blocks glued to fabric and is flexible to match any curvature on your deck.

    6) Pour enough resin to cover entire repair and set in the new balsa core. Pour enough resin over the new core to cover it.

    7) place top skin back and place weight on it; sandbags work best. Some resin may squish out the edges.

    8) After the repair has cured, use your circular sander to create a feathered edge all along the edge of the repair. You should have about 3 inches of feathering on each side of the repair edge.

    9) Start laying your fiberglass in the channel you’ve created, starting in the middle right over the repair edge with a thin (about 2”) strip. Follow that with successively wider fiberglass pieces till you reach desired thickness and width.

    10) the repair is essentially done. Now make it pretty by sanding flush and gel coating. (Mixing the perfect color takes some effort)

    BAM!! Time to go sailing!!

  13. I'm with John Anthony I'm afraid, sorry! Probably because I'm a college trained and time served boat builder. In the UK we'd call that a 'bodge'.

  14. wow, you have a great boat and are probably a great sailor but that was a horrible repair. You did not even sand the lower skin! I would say that was pretty much a how to in how to not repair a boat. I hope it holds and wish you a great trip!

  15. Back when I was a kid, existing in a perfect world, knowing everything and simultaneously lacking much experience to know better, I would have scoffed at that repair. When later I was a yacht joiner at Hinckley, I heaped ridicule on an old fart who often repeated his mantra of ”good nuff”. Just today, a few decades later, I was performing a non-critical repair aboard my own boat, and caught myself saying it too! What?

    One of my old boatyard bosses told me once that the perfect raceboat was the one that upon crossing the line in record time, promptly failed. Nothing was left on the table. Success.

    I figure I’ve got another couple decades if I don’t replace this boat in the interim. There’s simply no sense in achieving more than a serviceable repair unless one is driven by ego, perfectionism, or the boat itself is worthy of an historical record, like say Dorade.

    I say, well done. It might be unnecessarily heavy, and hardly engineered, but I can’t imagine with all that mass and massive backing blocks that you’ll ever witness a catastrophic failure. Exquisite compromises exist on a continuum, and only a fool attempts to operate within a perfect world.

  16. Looking forward to seeing if the chain is what you think is going to Last in time or just Rust away over time 🙂 Stainless Steel would be the dream way to go but the cost might be another boat in price and Gal well would be how good the Dip was done ??????????. on it. Most would say you get what you pay for but in the boat world that does not hold true .

  17. Wow! everybody's a critic. Dumpster diving boat repair, YOU ARE AWESOME! Wonder if your followers remember that all the tools and budget you are working with come from your boat. Most of my shade tree mechanic repairs last longer than any I've paid for and I have no doubt that your do too. Cheers!

  18. All this stuff takes me back.
    If you cruise long enough (or just have a boat old enough) this sort of thing awaits. You have to dig in. 😁

  19. The next time you are patching a hole like on the inside surface of that deck get a flat object board, piece of card board, mds and put it against the hole. Take a 2 x 4 and wedge it against the flat object. Now you have a flat surface to patch the holes. Patch just like you did. Then remove the flat object and fare with bondo. Easy! And can be made smooth easy!

  20. I'm no expert, but I believe you need to re-core the deck when you get back to base. Check out the Sail Life channel. It's a big job!

  21. Great job. I love your down to earthness…if that is a word…you are resourcefull and have proven to me time and time again that making repairs doesn't have to be complicated or break the bank. Thanks for the time and effort you both put into making the videos.

  22. I use my phone to watch videos and other computer related stuff. I can't find the tip jar link. I'm located in Australia so perhaps that has something to do with it???

  23. Great work. Thanks for sharing. Good that you did not use modeling clay. It has moisture in it and finds moisture creating a weak point between glasses layers and affects resin.

  24. Patrick, the 90 degree bent tool you are using is also known as a cotter pin extractor. A lot of people don't know that. Enjoy your videos. Thanks

  25. Contrary to popular belief, the strength does not come from the core, it comes from the 'box' shape of the FRP around it. The core is just a empty space holder so that the box can be formed. It doesn't matter if it's rotten, the problem is the water intrusion into the layers of FRP. Anybody can break a piece of balsa wood with no problem. Some people repair rotted cores by simply drilling holes every few inches and filling up with epoxy, reinforcing the 'box'. In fact the entire boat is built on this theory, the typical 1/8" non-cored hull is flimsy until they complete the box by gluing the deck to it.

  26. Patrick can you recommend any good sources to research which areas are safe on Africa’s east coast? State Dept website is not overly detailed

  27. Why didn't you cut out more of the top layer and then cut away all of the rotten balsa? Seems like the wet balsa most likely goes all the way under the stanchions and other equipment you have nearby. Too much work for this occasion and saving it for later? Why not have the guys doing the sides do all of the front at the same time?

  28. That looks like a good structural repair. Aesthetically it is kind of a mess though. Can you address how to finish the surface so it looks good and blends with the previous non-skid? I understand how to do the structural part and am not intimidated by it. What makes me nervous is getting to the end and having the deck look like a patchwork of repairs and original surface. Yes it would be stronger and safe, but looks also count.

  29. Lisa here. Always a pleasure to watch you. And Rebecca is a natural spokesperson. Funny to be in Colombia watching you talk about your last repairs here. You've certainly made some miles since then (12 years ago, wow). Glad the dumpster dive for fiberglass was successful 😉

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