How to design a Jumpsuit in Tailornova made-to-measure system

How to design a Jumpsuit in Tailornova made-to-measure system

Hello everybody. Andrea
here with SewToFit. I’m going to be reviewing the new
pattern design that I started using, the online pattern designing
software that is called TailorNova. What it is, is a pattern design software that you
can go in and choose how you want to design your pattern based off of whatever
design details you want to utilize. So. I’m going to give you
a video recollection of how
I designed this pattern… And I kind of want to call this
pattern the um, the Lynn, suit, the Lynn Jumpsuit. So you know,
ADLynn, SewToFit by ADLynn. So I thought about giving
it the Lynn jumpsuit, because I love it so much and
I plan to make several more. Now as far as utilizing
this software, I really, really like how it uses the fit and how
I can design it without going to the paper and doing everything
100% from scratch. And then once I do that, I take it into my auto cad software and
manipulate it to give it the type and design to barrel down the design process
in a way that I want to make it for myself. And then once I’m done
with that, then I print it out. Instead of doing everything
on the table and by paper. I move it in using what we call a DXF
format in the pattern design software. You can bring it in as a pdf and put
it into illustrator if you are good at using illustrator. But because I’ve gotten so proficient
at using the auto cad software that I utilize using the cameo
software that I have for wild, from wild ginger, um,
then I’m pretty good, you know, I’m okay with that. So the first thing I did when I
went in is I chose a new design. When you choose a new design, you can pick the different
types that you want to do. You can pick between the pants,
jumpsuit, skirt or anything like that. I went down the system and
selected a jumpsuit with a regular, uh, neck line. You can choose
the type of front you want, you can choose whether you
want it to have no darts, with, darts, uh, princess seams. You can choose all the different
things that you see there. Um, for instance, I decided that I w I was looking at
whether I wanted to have a camisole top or not, and then I wanted to look at how it
looks if I wanted to have a flare leg and then I kinda just was going through the
system trying to decide how I wanted to have this look. There are so many combinations
that you can pick and choose from. And that is the beginning. That is only
the beginning of the design process. Once you do that, then you have to make sure you choose
the different measurements that you’re going to use, the ease that
you’re going to use for which one. So you almost have to know what type
of ease or how loose fitting you want something to fit before you
even go into this process. Uh, when I go in there I just pick and choose
the different design details first and then I barrel down on all
of the different ease, how much I want to have. It has the 3D image of you with your
measurements and I’ve been looking into other 3D softwares and stuff
that is out there. But Hey, you know what, we’ll
talk about that later. But right now I wanted to give you an
idea how I made this jumpsuit and then how the changes I made after I finished it
and went in and redesigned it to have the look I want now I did select that it
have the darts underneath the bust. Those are called waist darts. I didn’t
want to have any side darts in my knit, cause I knew I was going
to make it into a knit. Unfortunately on this system you
cannot make everything into a knit, but you have to make
certain considerations as
far as how you design it. When I went through
this, I decided to, uh, take the wide leg pants
and then I went back and I, I changed it to have a particular length
for the pants cause I knew what length I wanted cause I went to the
store and I tried on some pants. When I finally selected
the waistline dart, then I had to choose the back and how I
wanted the back to be. You can see here, this is called a keyhole back.
Okay. You can choose your sleeves, you can choose whatever you want. I chose the flare sleeves because
I knew I didn’t want them to be, uh, like drapey drapey sleeves because
of this type of fabric I wanted to use. I wanted it to be a little less, uh, flouncy shall I say because
this is a flounce sleeve. But I changed this so it’d be more of a, just a moderate flare. And
that’s why it’s shaped like that. And one of the things about, um, choosing how you want your neck line is
you have to know in your mind how you’re going to, uh, have to make any
changes for the area up here. Because no matter what patterns are always
drafted the same whether they drafted digitally or whether they’re drafted by
hand or whether they’re drafted in auto cad. Either way, the numbers are still going to give you
a certain area here where you have to come tour it based on how large your
busts are. The larger your bust, the more you’re going to have to contour,
any kind of opening for the neck, unless it’s way up here, then
you gotta contour differently. So I’ll show you what I did to mind
when I finally decided on my neck line. And when I finally decided on my back. Now after I chose my neck
line and I chose my back, my front neckline and my sleeves, my back, how wide I want my pant legs
and everything like that, how length of my pants leg. I went into the ease section of the
system and decided to do semi-fitted and then I added one that says stretch
so I wanted moderate stretch, not extremely stretchy, just a
moderate stress like medium stretch. Then I because I know and I suggest
you learn everything you like. I like certain measurements.
I like certain numbers. I like my legs on my pants
to be a certain width. I like how loose my legs
are to be around my knee. I know exactly how much ease and what
the finished width or finish length. I want for my hips, for my
waist, for my crotch depth, for my crotch length, for my
rise, front, rise, back, rise, all of that. You really need to learn and determine
what your particular numbers are., So that no matter what pattern you use, you can measure that pattern straight
off the bat and know exactly what your numbers are, because that is going to free you from
all of the excessive stuff that you have to do as far as um, making your pattern to fit yourself
using muslins and tissue fitting and all that. That way you could go right in,
make those adjustments on the paper. Like I do “laughing” I already showed
ya’ll how I do that and you know, that’s what I’m all about. is telling
you how I get to the sneaky part. So what I did is I made sure that I chose
the correct width of my leg opening. I chose how much ease I wanted in my hip. I went through there and I
chose the length of my crotch. I chose the depth, I chose the rise for the
back. I know my rise. I literally carry, I literally carry a measuring tape to
the store when I go shopping for pants. Basically, if it does not have from center
crotch all the way up to the back. A minimum of 17 inches. I can’t wear it.. Period. I’m not even going to try. I’m not even going to try the pants on
at the store, unless I know that it’s, I wanted to go low. So then I’ll go with a 16 or maybe Nah, I’m not even gonna say 15 cause
that’s just not gonna work for me. Then in the front I know
my crotch depth. I know, look I don’t even want to keep saying
that because I know youtube is going to try to say something about
all these words. I you, you guys don’t even
want to know. Side Note, you guys don’t even want to know how
many times the over the last three months that they have flagged my videos.
I talk so much about anatomy. I’m gonna have to use
different words for um, talking about the buttocks
and stuff like that. Oh, I’m going to have changed
my terminology. So anyway, as you’re looking at this video here, I’m just telling you some of the ways
that I continued to barrel down and I use the word barrel down because I literally
go in there and I think through every single ease measurement that I want and
I know ease is a really difficult thing to get. I mean, I’m just going to admit it is
something that is very detailed. I mean really detailed you, you almost have to see it in your mind
and and analyze those numbers to go with the amount of ease for
each part of your body, front and back and left and
right. Like for instance, my ease cross my chest,
sorry about the noise. I know how much this is and I can tell
when I’ve lost weight or gained weight because this number changes my, you know, you already saw the last video how
my thing popped open. So anyway, moving on. Let’s continue
and let me show you. Now you’re looking at the picture of the
pattern as it came out of the system. Okay, now it even gives you the layout. I love that of how the pattern
pieces are with the grid, the grid is in centimeters. So that really makes a difference
for me because I know how to, uh, you know, you can look at, you can look at the grid and you
can see how long the pants are. You can double check. That’s
like a preview pattern. So you can look at how wide the back is.
You can look at how wide the front is. That’s why it’s laid out flat like
that. And once you determine that, then you can, when you get ready to print, you can have it to print on, on the fold. But the way it’s laying right now really
makes it easy for you to match patterns and do stuff like that.
And then you can look at, it really looks like my darts
aren’t totally in the wrong place. But this picture here,
you can see my darts, they are in the right place. So you have to measure those
darts by looking at the grid. Now let’s talk about how I made, I omitted the neckline and this is where
I started making pattern adjustments. And I went in and I said, okay, so let
me go in here and change this pattern. So I made this to show you how I did this. All of those words that you see on here, I type those on there so that when I do
my printout, I have all of those words. That’s why I say I bring it into another
software and when I bring everything into another software, I can manipulate
it and do whatever I want. So, um, if you don’t have another software or
you’re not familiar with another software, then you know, you might want
to consider learning, you know, like maybe even illustrator
or you can, I guess you can, I don’t know if you could do it.
Anything else? I’m sorry. I don’t, I’m not that good at
everything else. I just, I got pro very proficient at cameo and
that’s all I’ve been using for the last 10 years, 11 years. So sorry to,
if I can help you with that. Okay. So you can see where I did the red line
on the pant back and the pant front. I literally added my extra
hips on those because numbers, when a pattern creates a, when
anything creates a pattern for you, it is going to split those pattern
measurements into a different, uh, categories for the
back and for the front. So it gave me a lot of room for the back, but it distributed those
curves in a way that I need to, uh, you know, just a little bit more. I wanted to give just a little bit more
for that one area that I know I always have a problem with and
I use my sloper pattern, my pant pattern block that I have
been using for quite some time. I use that pant pattern block that I
drafted for myself to overlay on there to get my exact location of
my curve for my hip. Then, uh, for the sleeve, I went in and I took
out some of the swing, some of the flare out of that. Now knowing how to sew or
knowing how the flare is created, you’ll be able to know
where to take it out. And that’s how I was able to get the
sleeve. And you can see the picture here. That’s why I was able to
take some of that volume out. So the red shows where I took things out
on this sleeve and then you can see on the front the bodice front.
I took out a little bit here, which I do on any v-neck. Anything that goes below the armpit right
here is called contouring because you start to get into curving. So I
took out that wedge in the neckline, three eights of an inch is
what I always start with, I don’t know, everybody already knows that I start with
three eights of an inch on everything, but in order to do that I didn’t add it
to or take it out of or make my darts larger. I actually took it out of the shoulder
and when I took it out of the shoulder, I literally created an automatic forward
shoulder adjustment by doing that. So you can see the pivot point is at the
shoulder point and the change happens at the high point of
shoulder, which is right here. Then you can see I omitted the facing
and then I created a new neckband. All right, so the neckband I created was one that
I used to make the v-neck because I wanted it to have a band and
that band makes it easier for me. But now I left the back the same. However, I pointed the back and I didn’t
really write it on there. Sorry, I kinda cut it when I did it. When I finally laid it on the table
after I made these adjustments in my auto cad software. Then I made a
final adjustment right here. I made a final adjustment on the
back so that I can make it overlap. And then I put, put a simple little snap
in there and oh yeah, that snap worked out perfect
because it closed it. Now this can also be for woven, but that is low enough to clear my bra
and it is open enough to where I could just snap it on and off and
take care of Mother Nature. Okay. And so if I wanted to
make this into a woven, I can also put the
zipper down through here, past the waist band to give me that,
that amount I need at the bottom. I went ahead and added elastic at the
waist in order to add the elastic at the waist, I extended the waistband a little bit
so that when I sewed it together by the sewing machine, I use a little small zigzag stitch and
then when I sewed it together by the sewing machine, I came back and use a one three eighths
inch regular elastic and I serged that elastic into the seam itself
and then I’m folded it upward, pressed it up pressed the whole waist
seam upward into the body section, thereby creating a channel or an elastic
waist seam and it’s finished on both the inside and the outside. Then I top stitched it there
from the regular waistline, which is the waist seam. I top stitches encasing it so that it
will look flat and it will feel flat on my body. So that’s pretty
much how that worked. I also continue to kept the bu…, the bust darts and the back darts
in there for the front and the back. The facing of course, like I said, I used the facing the way it was supposed
to be and then I hemmed it one inch on both the sleeve and the bottom. And so I use the cover stitch, single needle chain stitch to him it
on the cover stitch machine to get my stretch that I need and I used it
really loose so that it would be very stretchy. I’ve been getting
used to my coverstitch machine. I like that. So the pattern
is made from a stretch woe, a stretch fabric. It’s called a, it’s an Italian rayon Jersey that I
got from Sewmuch fabric and the link is below, but all of the links are below
for you to try this out if you want to. But the fabric is a very,
very, very soft fabric. And I plan to make this, like I
said, quite a number of times. Uh, so going to redesign it a little bit
because I want to make it in a linen. And since I have all my darts
and everything in there, then I’ll be able to do that. If
you want to have this pattern, you can become part of my patron
community and once you’re a patron, I’ll give you this free of charge as part
of my patron community for the $4 and up patrons, that means that
it’s going to be a size, the waist is 32 but the numbers for the
size and everything or be on the link if you wanted in a different size, I’ll
give you more information as a patron, you’ll get more information on how
to get it in your own size and a, of course it’s super easy to make
you guys, you know it’s intuitive, it’s got facing. If you want to do the
v neck line, that’s something different. I can do a little tutorial,
if you get this pattern. I’ll do that and add it to
the free pattern link. Okay, so basically that’s how it is. It’d be
in my shop later on. If you want it, just let me know and I will make sure
I put it, make it available to you. Okay? See you on the other
side of the Internet. Bye.

4 thoughts on “How to design a Jumpsuit in Tailornova made-to-measure system

  1. This is awesome! Iā€™m so happy I found your channel! I am 6ā€™1ā€ tall and have a 42ā€ busy so I have to make a lot of my clothing if I want it to fit. I love how you design! One question: with the darts as wide as we have to have them, how do you make the apex of them look so good?

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