Drafting a Facing + Lining 🧥 M7730 Misses’ Jacket Sewing Pattern

Drafting a Facing + Lining 🧥 M7730 Misses’ Jacket Sewing Pattern

welcome to the Sewing Report I’m Jen this
channel is all about sewing crafts and DIY projects I’ve been spending in the
last couple weeks on one sewing project that is taking me forever and that is
McCall’s 7730 it is a super-cute lined woman’s jacket
I’m making view–a it’s a shorter version with flounces on the bodice and
sleeves I thought it looked awesome and this is going to be a gift for somebody
but because the recipient and I are about the same size I will be able to
model it in a future episode here so check back for that hopefully it doesn’t
take me forever I was looking at a lot of reviews for this pattern I wasn’t
able to find a whole lot or really any videos that anyone else had done so I
wanted to take you through this whole process and one thing that was
recommended by other makers that this pattern was to draft a facing for the
lining of this pattern to give it a better finished look which I definitely
agreed so that’s what we’re doing right now we’re going to be using the main
fronted back pieces of the pattern tracing paper and marking pen a few
years ago I picked up this fit and fashion styling curve at a sewing
workshop unfortunately I can’t find it anywhere
online but it’s so useful being transparent and having slots to market
to common seam allowances most commercial sewing patterns use a 5/8
inch seam allowance from the neckline edge I created a curve between two and a
half and three inches out for the main fabric facing at the center back deduct
five eighths of an inch because the lining is two pieces sewn together but
the facing piece will be just one cut on the fold so you don’t need the seam
allowance you’ll also need to measure where the
bottom stitch line will be as that will help you draft the lining piece transfer
all the original pattern markings then I traced the rest of the pattern back with the facing piece lid underneath
mark the stitch line then five eighths of an inch beyond that which will be the
cut line the facing and lining pieces will not be an exact puzzle fit because
you need to account for the seam allowances so there will be an overlap
they should look like this one completed now it’s time to do the front facing
which will run along the neckline and open at the center I marked aligned two
inches and 5/8 from the center and two and a half inches from the next stitch
line so it matches up with the back facing cut out the front facing piece
and repeat the step of marking the stitch line where the main fabric will
be sewn to the lining trace the rest of the front piece slide
the facing underneath and calculate five eighths of an inch beyond the stitch
line to mark the cut line after cutting out both front facing and lining pieces
they should look something like this with overlap of double the seam
allowance now let’s move on to constructing the faced jacket lining
because this is a somewhat structured garment I interface to the facing pieces
with pro sheer elegance medium fusible from fashion sewing supply trace the
pattern pieces on to the interfacing but I like to cut it out slightly smaller
than the pattern pieces so the interfacing fits within them fuze according to the manufacturer’s
instructions for whatever interfacing you choose it will also help to use a
pressing cloth to avoid getting glue dots all over your iron the fabrics for this project are a lemon
yellow boucle suiting in a rayon polyester blend and an off-white rayon
bemberg for the lining pinning the facing and lining pieces was challenging
especially at the neckline curve because of that opposite orientation the
markings at the front Center neckline can be used as a guide for where they
need to meet up sewing tip clip into the inner corner of
the facing so it’s not as tricky to stitch to the lining cut the corner of the lining to
eliminate bulk when you press the pieces flat because the lining fabric is prone to
frame I trimmed some excess with pinking shears after a good pressing I topped
stitched a quarter inch on to the lining to help keep the facing from flopping
out then I trimmed the extra seam allowance
of the main fabric knowing there are two stitch lines securing it
onto the back first I sewed the lining pieces together and press to the seam
allowance open pinning the lining to the facing also
had that same challenge due to the opposite curves using a ton of pins helped evenly
distribute the fabric and there was no puckering i topstitch the back piece and even
added a sewing report label to the center to give it that custom look with the face to lining pieces done I
sewed them together following the pattern instructions here’s what it looks like after the
sleeves have been attached and it’s ready to sew to the outer jacket pieces
and we’re back with the finished lining with facing I think it turned out okay
but the real test will come when I put this together with the outer fabric so
we’re gonna see how this turns up but check back soon because I will have an
updated video where I finish this jacket and see how it all turns out so far I do
like this pattern sometimes with the McCall’s or big 4 patterns I feel like
that finishing techniques they recommend don’t look very professional or they may
be a little bit like they don’t make sense but with this pattern m77 30 is so
far I’ve been quite pleased with what the instructions have said and I
followed them pretty exactly I did make one change to the lining but I will be
documenting that in the next episodes this was the first time I’ve ever
attempted to draft my own facing I survived I know you can too so get to it
I hope you found this video helpful I’ll also link some other garment sewing
videos right here I’m Jennifer Moore with the Sewing Report I’ll see you guys
in the next video

2 thoughts on “Drafting a Facing + Lining 🧥 M7730 Misses’ Jacket Sewing Pattern

  1. Wow, Jen! This jacket lining looks fantastic! Very professional! So you drafted the lining facing because otherwise it would just be flapping around inside the jacket? Or maybe I missed the explanation. Can’t wait to see how it all comes together!

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