Changing Colors with Shirley Adams Sewing Connection

Changing Colors with Shirley Adams Sewing Connection


Lively Music Lively Music hello Shirley Adams for the Sewing
Connection Series 17 program 11. One of the lovely things about making your own
clothing and working with fabrics is that they can be whatever you want them
to be. for example maybe I want to wear this
olive blouse with these purple pants. some might think that a strange
combination but if I had a jacket or a vest with both those colors in it,
the pairing would be obvious. I’m in the process of making a jacket whose color
has been changed and this is how I’ve done it. now until I get that jacket done
I very easily could just wear this combination belt because it has the
purple and the olive in it so that’s one thought something to combine the two, or
also I have a great scarf that has purple and olive in it and maybe I could
wear that scarf but what I’m really working on now is this jacket and it’s a
hand woven fabric which I just love I just love to admire what Weaver’s do I’m
not one of them but this one I thought was really pretty and it was kind of
changing colors and that it started more, oh, in the pinky line. the Reds the
Burgundy’s up here at the top and as it goes down it gets a little bit more into
greens and purples so it changes color from one end to the other but I wanted
it to be a little bit more obvious to where all of with it even though it had
some in it so I saw about the same time I bought the fabric I saw this yarn and
this yarn is a combination of course of purple and knowledge and I thought what
if I weave some of this into that fabric to change the color because it is so
loosely woven there’s no reason why that couldn’t be done so what I’ve done you
can see every place there’s a sparkle and every place there’s a thread hanging
out here that I’ve woven some rows and after I had this all carefully woven
because it ravels very easily, it’s kind of loosely woven
after I had it all woven as much as I decided I wanted in it then I have
backed it with some interfacing some fusible interfacing to glue it together
now this is a pretty new one that’s on the market it’s a lofty weft,
and it stays nice and soft it gives it a little loft, it
just perfect for these hand woven fabrics I wish I had, I wish they had had
it years ago because I have a lot of other hand woven so I would rather have
had this in but all I had of that fabric was this and I can fit on that the front
and back of my jacket and that’s it I have to do something else for the
sleeves and in order to avoid having any seam as possible even though this one
has a center back seam you don’t have to have one this one just happens to be
absolutely straight and even if it had a little shape I still would cut it on the
fold so I wouldn’t have that extra seam so what I’ve done is just put the
stitching line of their pattern onto the fold the fabric so I can cut it in one
piece and break it up as little as possible. also I’ve added the facing to
the front of my jacket and I’m cutting that as one piece so that it’ll just be
a fold under there at the front instead of a seam to make it as easy as possible
now there wasn’t enough fabric here to do anything else with so I thought I
might as well add this what I could have done for facings is just using another
fabric they won’t show anyway but notice what I’ve also done that I talked about
last program I have put these underarm points here in here on the same line
because I want the same stripe to go around my body and so this is the way
it’ll do it now usually stripes would go lengthwise perhaps but this one I
decided no I wanted the rosier colors up near my face and the darker deeper
Purple’s down there so that they blend into my pants so think it out very
carefully before you lay your pattern and cut out once you’ve cut that’s it no
more chances on it well this is all I had and I don’t have enough for sleeves
and I wanted a jacket not a vest so what I’ve done is just find a wool crepe and
it’s very close to the same colors the same purples but then to change its
color to make it look like it belongs in this jacket I’ve added this yarn to it
also so there’s some of the same yarn both these things to make them
coordinate don’t you just love to do things like this this is the fun of
sewing and it delights me enormous ly while I was looking for this fabric in
the store I found these buttons and they look like they have been woven also so
they just kind of blend in everything ties together so beautifully
once you go shop and find what there is to find what I’ve
also done to these sleeves by the way it’s a two-piece sleeve I’ve just
overlapped it in the middle so that the stitching line would be about there and
it was a large enough sleeve that I thought I went this a little bit smaller
so I’ve overlapped it generously to make it a little smaller and then at the top
you saw me do this a couple of three programmes ago just make a dart at the
top of the sleeve and this is would turn into a dart so this will have a dart
probably because it’s rather closely woven and it probably won’t want to ease
in nicely with stitching so this is what I’ve done to change that but what I also
did as I was doing this stitching on here is I used some so in sheer
interfacing instead of a fusible and after I got this all finished I thought
I don’t like the feel of it it was too stiff and by the time I had all these
stitches on I’m not going to take those off what I did is just carefully cut
away the rest of it around the stitching get rid of the rest of it and then
in this also so I’ve put that lofty weft so it stays soft and I like the sleeve much
better that way but let’s go over and see how this is all done we have as I’m
walking past them we have some other things here on the mannequins and this
vest is one who would wear a rhubarb vest in pants with a purple blouse well
maybe if you change the color of it and so I have a blend here in this yarn that
I’ve couched all that yarn on the best because I love the technique I love to
do it but also it enables me to wear the purple with the rhubarb and I like these
odd color combinations they’re kind of pretty
you see these done a lot these days over on the other one
it’s that stripe that’s in olives and purples and magenta but what I did to
make it go with that skirt is put a little piping around the edges so
they’re also I’ve changed the color a little bit by putting that piping on to
make it obvious why I’m wearing that skirt with that blouse so sometimes you
just have to make it a little bit more obvious as what the deal is well here is
another of the sleeves the second sleeve and always always practice the technique
whatever you’re going to try on a scrap of fabric to make sure you know what
you’re doing before you get into the actual project
and what I’m going to do is couch this on I’ll just the rest of the fabric I
have here I’m going to make something else out of sew right for now I won’t
use that I’ll just use a piece of fabric of any type now this is an especially
difficult yarn to couch on and the reason for that is that it there are
really two yarns here that are loosely twisted together there is this one with
a lot of metallic in and there’s this mohair one and the trouble with couching
it on is because they are so loosely twisted they separate and then you end
up couching one of mine and you have to go back and grab the other one again so
it does make it more difficult but a challenge is fun. now here’s one that’s
just a mohair and I’ve had a lot of you ask me how do we make those mohair yarns.
I’m not a spinner either or a dyer but I know how they make them and so you can
see this changes color it just goes to different colors as it goes along this
is how it all starts out this is called roving and I found a floral shop of all
things down in Albuquerque where I saw this roving they had a whole lot of it
and what you do see how the dyer has dyed this they’ve just died different
colors as it goes along and then as they spin this into yarn this is called
roving and it’s been all carded and combed the wool fibers the sheep’s
fibers have but it hasn’t been spun yet and it’s all pulled out into a long
strand instead of this big thick one and it’s spun and it turns out to be then
these variegated yarn so I think it’s kind of an interesting process I’d love
to watch them do it well what I’m going to do is use my beloved miracle stitcher
I just love this little thing and I haven’t used it for a couple series now
so I better do some more of it because I’m getting anxiety attacks for not
using it more often and what it is it comes in this little box and they’re all
kinds of instructions and so on but what it is is a completely different foot and
it has a little slot in here that the needle goes in and yarn also goes in
there there’s a little slit on the side of it and then it has a different needle
screw here that’s around instead of the usual one and then it has this little
double cup thing that goes on the needle screw and once I have that in place then
I’m going to you put a spool pin on top and I’m going
to put my yarn in my lap and we’re going to get going doing something here okay
now we just take the spool pin and put it up here on top because there’s a
little place there for an extra spool pin and then we’re going to be ready to
go once we set the stitches now I’ve already dropped the feed dog because you
don’t want it in play you want to do free motion stitching here it’s already
dropped but I’m on straight stitch and so I need to go to whoops I didn’t need
to do that I needed to just go to the zigzag and then I don’t want it to be
all this wide because it would hit the edge of the foot and so I’ve got to get
it narrower I want to go way down to 1.5 and it doesn’t even matter about the
length because I’ll control that it’s just the width you want to be concerned
about okay this is all threaded by the way with monofilament thread on top
because you want that clear thread you don’t want it to show in most cases
there are some times maybe you would want it to show a blend in or maybe
accent it by putting metallic and you can do that but I don’t want this to
show so I have the clear down below I just have a white bobbin thread because
it’ll be on backside and not show and this won’t really show up very well on
this dark I’m just going to turn it over and we’ll put the back whoopsie we’ll
put the back side up instead which is just a fleece but fine you can see it
better on this white than you can on the on the dark and what I’m going to do
here is just make little squiggles the same as around the sleeve now where I
learned to do that is several programs ago we were doing things with shears and
I had a quilted vest and I had these squiggly lines in that quilted vest they
just sorta went back forth and forth and looked like ripples in the water and at
the time I was stitching that just with thread on the vest I was thinking
wouldn’t that be pretty done in yarn I like to take one thing I learn and apply
it to something else but in a different way always so that you don’t realize
it’s the same thing I’m just going to put this yarn down in my lap and then
put this over the top now this is a mohair yarn and it’s really a nice one
for doing this miracle stitching and what I wanted to do is loop it over the
extra spool pin and then down here I’m going to put it
through the front of those do little cups there are two of them and I want it
through the front cup if you have a real thin thread or cord that you’re putting
on you’d put it through the back cup at this front one is a bigger one and then
I’m going to put it through this little slot in the foot so that it along with
the needle thread just goes in back here and then I can put my hoop on and get
going now what I always want to do and I’ll just pull this a little bit tighter
what I always want to do is I’m doing this is make sure it isn’t pulling from
my lap because if it pulls you’ll end up seeing just stitches and you won’t see
any yarn being stitched on couch down and so I’m going to I’ll start up here
and then we’ll go along and you can see what’s happening so every once in a
while you have to stop and put the needle down for that purpose so that I
can then get some more yarn loose here since I didn’t wind it in the ball since
it’s still on this and let’s see what’s going this is such fun this particular
yarn I used once before it’s telling me that the feed dogs down and yep I know
it okay and I’ll just make a little ball here maybe to start and then it’s just
letting it do its thing and you can just move it back and forth and if you feel
that the yarns not thick enough in one place go back and let it stitch some
more there and you can go back at any time even after you cut it off if you
decide oh I wish I had more yarn there go back and put some more on and you can
move any direction with this there are no limits but I like this variegated
yarn I like the way it suddenly is going to just change color and it’s when the
yarn starts pulling that maybe you just get stitching and no yarn showing there
and so if that’s the case go back and do it again this is a place where you do
have a second and the third and as many chances as you want because it’s not
over until it’s over you just keep working with it anyway this can be a really fun effect
now after you get going and after you get used to it basically what you want
to do is stitch fast but move slowly is usually what you do but anyway what I
did on that sleeve is not quite as heavy I sort of went back and forth like this
and just did little ripples in the water and see here’s where the yarn came loose
because it was pulling too tightly over here and if that happens if it comes
loose then that’s all right I’ll just get the needle back up and I’ll get it
back through the little slot and make sure it does have some slack so it won’t
do that but nothing’s lost because you just work your way back again and go
ahead and stitch more yarn on it so this is just a nice relaxing thing to do and
I absolutely love to use this but you can see it makes really nice squiggles
and it really would only take a few minutes with this gadget anyway to do
that whole sleeve so it’s it’s a very quick process really well anyway that’s
how I’ve changed color on this sleeve so that it does just join the rest of the
jacket and make it all look like it belongs together I’m going to go back
here and show you some other color changes last series I had a charcoal
dress and there was a whole program about Miss fabrics they Ravel very
easily they’re very light and airy and I thought isn’t that the perfect fabric to
do some color changing on so here’s the idea
now this Ravel so easily that not only can you if you want to Ravel out the
ends but there’s no reason why you can’t Ravel outros and make some sort of a
design in it and so what I have here is several yarns just pulled and you can
see you can make kind of nice striped fabric with this that you can sort of
see through and and give it some texture instead of being just a solid color
fabric so here’s one thing you might do here I didn’t travel any out I did this
the way I was doing the jacket itself the way I was doing it with putting the
extra yarn in the chartreuse II looking yarn here I was just weaving this in
without pulling any yarns but that’s a possibility if I wanted to get a
metallic look in here I’ve already woven a few rows
and the easy way to do that of course is to use a tapestry needle because it has
that big eye and you can thread it through easily and just go ahead and
weave it then so that’s one thing you might do here’s where the threads are
pulled but what I thought was really fun is when you start pulling threads as
many as you want or yarns properly called yarns of the fabric when you
start pulling a lot of them and you pull as many as you need to make the width
you need this is a pretty variegated ribbon and it’s woven through here by
just pulling enough yarns that there’s room for it
so here I have I don’t know maybe a dozen yarns pulled but that makes room
for the ribbon here I have this Oh looks like miniature Christmas tinsel almost
and I have that woven through by pulling yarns here’s how you pull a yarn you
just get a hold of one from the end and it rattles very easily and I’m going to
weave through it what this time how about I haven’t tried this cord yet I’ll
weave this well it looks like it needs to be a little bigger so I’ll pull
another corridor too so that we can make it a little bigger the space so that we
can get that cord through without it pulling and making any problems okay
about one more yarn and we’re ready to go you could we or Ravel yards of this
fabric and texture it in a very short period of time because it does Ravel so
easily and this is true with a lot of fabrics loosely woven ones as a whole
are the ones that would do it now there are a few different tools you can use to
weave this one is a tapestry needle which works out really well for most
things another is this bodkin and it has sort of a ball on the end of it so it
won’t get caught in anything and it has a still bigger eye or another one if
you’re doing ribbons than cords that won’t go through these then there’s
always this possibility this little clamp and what it is is the clamp down
here you get a hold of whatever it is you want to weave through and then you
move the slide down there to hold it tightly and then you can weave it
through with this end in front so anything can be woven really with one of
these tools or the other I’m going to just try this one so I’ll put the cord
through and then let’s see how it does it now what makes this fast also this
weaving is the fact that you don’t have to go in and out every
yarn that’s in there you can just do it in and out of groups of them for
instance I would come down here and then a half-inch later I’d come up and so
just by half inches maybe you can do this it doesn’t need to be all that
time-consuming try it on a scrap of course first to see what you have and to
see what effect you’re trying to get and to see if you like what you’re producing
so here’s how this would look and I rather like that that might be pretty to
do some stripes in some garment like this so there is a possibility here are
some other things that I’ve woven in and I already did this cord over here but
this is a nice little ribbon that’s all embroidered that you can buy and
expensively by the yard that would certainly give this very sombre charcoal
a completely different look to have this ribbon woven in and here again you can
see about every half inches where I caught it and yet because everything’s
dark it doesn’t show up like this one shows up because of the light cord you
can see exactly how my weaving was here you really can’t even tell so something
like this you can do very fast I thought it might even be fun to do something
texture you like this crimped ribbon so I have it woman in and out and with that
ribbon it you just sort of pull it out so it doesn’t shrink up the fabric so
get it pulled out a little bit but that could make an interesting effect or get
some other colors in if you want to like this pink organdy ribbon that I have
here makes it look completely different you’d never recognize it as the same
fabric or you can buy these packages of yarn and what they are about 10 yard
lengths probably of each of them yarns cords and maybe just put one of each one
weave it in so that you kind of change the color of that by making it a lot
pinkier and then maybe wear a pink jacket over the dress that you make out
of this because it looks like it belongs now with something pink down here what I
have is silk ribbons and these are all woven through now these are all narrow
ribbons they are all the same size they’re just a different color each time
but that’s a very distinct possibility if you want to make it very colorful and
so you can always try some like that now I find that there is
nothing that won’t weave through here I was concerned about maybe some of these
the the text or the chenille one here I thought well maybe it won’t pull
anything goes through this very easily and even though I don’t have a loom and
I’m not a weaver it makes me feel like I’m a much more accomplished person that
I can do all these extra things without actually having the equipment so that
makes it fun too there is no end to the versatility the variety of things that
you can do when you sew what I also might do on my purple is I already
started a project to oh I don’t know a few programs ago that I haven’t finished
yet and it’s this one it’s the same fabric in fact it’s the same fabric that
I’m using for the sleeves so this is something else that I can wear with the
pants that I’m wearing and maybe with the jacket on top maybe just with the
pants and the blouse alone but here I’ve changed the color by using this
variegated ribbon and just stitching it on instead of weaving it through because
this creped fabric these crepe yarns they’re crimped sort of and you are not
very easily going to pull any of those out it’s not going to Ravel easily so
you can’t pull them out therefore you’d stitch on top of something like this or
if you wanted to put yarns on it you would maybe do that miracle stitching or
when I did the yarns on the rhubarb vest back there this vest I didn’t use the
miracle stitcher for this I just used a foot that had in something an
indentation under the base of it in the platform of it underneath so that it
would kind of hold the yarn in place now some of the feet that you could use for
this might be a cord foot or a braid foot depending on what you have with
your machine and I like to have with my machine every foot they produce because
it enables you to do things that you couldn’t do without that particular foot
so whether it’s the corridor the braid foot or whether it’s the the clear foot
that you do different different decorative stitches with even that would
have an indentation underneath or a few programs ago I was using
the pintuck foot the one that has a big indentation underneath and I found that
perfectly holds a cord or a yarn in that case I was putting some yarn on so that
you can zigzag over the top now anytime I’m going to zigzag like that I want to
decide what kind of thread to use so that’s what I was trying on this and one
of them that I tried was the same color as the the same rhubarb color thread I
have here and I found that when I zigzag that on the zigzag showed and I didn’t
want that to happen so that wasn’t the best choice here you always have to do
samples really to make sure that you’re doing the best thing here I used some
glitz thread and it’s also kind of a red color and I wanted to get a little bit
more glitz and that isn’t bad but I can still see a slight zigzag with that so
that also wasn’t the effect I wanted I ended up putting it all on with the
monofilament thread so that you couldn’t see it at all and because you don’t want
to see your zigzag in most cases you really just want to see the yarn that’s
there but as long as you have the right foot to hold it in place then you can do
a beautiful job and what I was doing on that vest because I had the Rose so
close together I don’t know how many rows I put on that vest quite a quite a
few but because I was putting so many rows on this was easy to do with that
foot that holds things just right for the pin tucking so when I was doing this
notice how I have some of these rows pin tucked I have about three rows every
time not pin tucked but using the pintuck foot to put them on and then I
did the band and so on quite heavily I was so pleased to find a combination
button also the purple and rhubarb so that it just brought everything together
but then after I got finished it didn’t look heavy enough right in here and so
this is when I did go to the miracle stitcher and just did squiggles round
and round is what has happened right here to get all this on and it’s a
miraculous how it is a miracle stitcher indeed it’s miraculous how you can
change the whole look of a fabric by doing something like this I like things
that are asymmetrical as you well know and so as this came around this side it
doesn’t look the same at all instead of all these roads that are sort
of fanning out these are just solid roads and they’re just running parallel
with each other so it’s a different look you really are a designer every time you
sew because everything you do is different than what anybody else is
going to do and this is the joy of it I think the fact that everything you do is
so original so the next thing I’m going to try I’ll go back to my drawers that
contain yarns and ribbons and see what else I can do I have a whole lot of this
fabric left and it really fascinates me the different things you can do with it
so I’m all ready to do something there now what I can see with this one is I
have a skirt and a top right now that I’m wearing they are absolutely plain
but what I can see with the extra fabric I have is making a jacket of this and
I’m going to put something glittery in something metallic and all those spaces
that I make because I really want to turn that into something dressy instead
of daytime so it’s very simple to do that whether you’re changing the colors
or the mood or the occasion you can do it. well we’ve been quite colorful lately
so now let’s tone it down. let’s go neutral and deal with non color even to
using them for accents. next time see you right here. Lively Music Lively Music

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